My car makes a really annoying noise and sometimes dies right after
When I start my car up it makes almost a moaning noise then it will keep making it randomly, normally it's when my foot lets off the gas and when I put my brakes on. If I put it in park or sit too long at a light it will make that noise then a higher pitched noise then die. While making that noise my RPMs way up and then back down until my car completely Dies
My car has 175000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. From the description you have provided your vehicle’s moaning noise and intermittent stalling problem could be any number of things. It could be a failed alternator diode making the moaning noise and affecting the idle.
A failed alternator diode(s) allows voltage to flow both directions or no flow at all resulting in noise heard and erratic electrical operation. It could be a faulty idle air control valve. The idle air control valve can make noise and would account for the erratic idle and sporadic dying. It could be an accessory component, such as an A/C compressor, serpentine belt tensioner, or idler pulley, power steering pump making noise and placing undo load on the engine at idle. If you would like to have this done, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the noise and stalling issue.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Sometimes, new brake pads need to be broken in. Other factors that can contribute to squeaky brakes include dirt and debris on a brake pad, a damaged brake pad backing plate, a bad brake shoe, or weak brake shoe return springs. With so many possible causes, a squeaking or squealing noise can be difficult to diagnose.
Engine stalls when brakes are applied When the brake booster is failing it can draw excess vacuum from the engine. This occurs when the diaphragm inside the brake booster fails and allows air to bypass the seal. The brakes are then pressed, the engine feels like it will stall, and the idle can drop.
When your brakes squeal continuously as you drive along the road, but the squealing stops when you press the brake pedal, the most likely cause is the brake wear indicator touching the rotor`s surface.
The classic symptom of a failing master cylinder is a brake pedal that “dives” or sinks slowly to the floor while pedal pressure is being applied. Another sign to look out for is any leaks around the master cylinder. If a seal is worn out, it may leak past the seal and onto the pushrod that attaches to the brake pedal.
Symptoms of a faulty brake booster
Stiff brake pedal action is a strong indicator of brake booster failure because the booster will have lost its ability to amplify the force of your foot to the brake, requiring you to use more pressure.
Brake pedal difficult to push – The most common sign of a brake booster leak is your brake pedal feeling “harder” than normal. It will require more force to work and increase your stopping distance. If you notice this, you should get your car inspected as soon as possible. This is because it can affect your safety.
The sound often appears when your vehicle comes to a complete stop, but you may also hear it as you step on the brake pedal. The best way to resolve this problem is to have your brake pads replaced as soon as possible, but you may also need to replace both your discs or rotors at this point.
If the humming noise is a high pitched hum, or more of a consistent squeaking sound, it`s possible that it is caused by a build-up of brake dust on the brake rotors. In most cases, this is not a cause for concern, however, it could also indicate that your brake pads are low and about time for replacement.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My car makes a really annoying noise and sometimes dies right after
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided your vehicle’s moaning noise and intermittent stalling problem could be any number of things. It could be a failed alternator diode making the moaning noise and affecting the idle.
A failed alternator diode(s) allows voltage to flow both directions or no flow at all resulting in noise heard and erratic electrical operation. It could be a faulty idle air control valve. The idle air control valve can make noise and would account for the erratic idle and sporadic dying. It could be an accessory component, such as an A/C compressor, serpentine belt tensioner, or idler pulley, power steering pump making noise and placing undo load on the engine at idle. If you would like to have this done, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the noise and stalling issue.
My car vibrates and makes noise when turning to the right. Is the drive axle bad?
ANSWER : Hello. If your car is making a popping or clicking noise when turning right, then the right side axle is likely the source of the issue. Axles will begin to make noise during turns when the CV joint has worn out and needs to be replaced. A worn or faulty axle can also cause vibrations and pulling/steering wander as well, along with worn tires.
I would check the axle to see if the boot is torn or the joint is loose, and replace it if necessary. Once the CV joint is taken care of, I would look at the tire to see if it may perhaps be excessively worn or out of balance, as this can also cause vibrations and steering wheel pull.
I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, perform an inspection to determine the source of the vibration and suggest any needed repairs.
Car makes grinding noise – 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
ANSWER : Hey there, thanks for writing in. I would have a professional mechanic check out the constant velocity joints on your vehicle. One or more of them may be worn enough to cause the noises you describe. S/he can diagnose and replace any failed CV joints.
grinding noise while turning right or driving straight
ANSWER : Hello. If the noise is still there when the engine is off and if you are not turning the wheel, then it is typically either a failing bearing in the rear differential or it can be a failure in the transfer case if it is four wheel drive.
The transfer case is a very common failure on this vehicle. If it is two wheel drive then I typically start by draining the oil from the rear differential and inspecting the fluid for metal.
Any metal in the fluid indicates a bearing failure. If that is also fine, then it may be an issue within the transmission. It may be a failure in one of the thrust bearings. If you need to get this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your car’s grinding noise.
My car makes a chirping noise while in motion, the noise is more frequent based on how fast I’m traveling.
ANSWER : You should have the brake sensors checked to see if the brakes are worn to the sensor or the backing vent plate is rubbing the rotor. If both are good then you may have a front wheel bearing then is going bad and needs replaced. Only a physical inspection can verify the brakes are good and not cause of noise and the bearing is bad.
car making womp womp noise and pop
ANSWER : A common cause of a noise like that is tire belt (internal) separation, flat spot(s) on tire or other tire defects. If the tires end up being excluded during a diagnostic, the CV axles, wheel bearings, and unfortunately the transmission and clutch have to be considered. The noise on turning is suggestive of a possibly defective outer CV joint but very loose tie rods ends and ball joints can sometimes be implicated. Also, it is possible to have a bad strut bearing, in the strut mount. Keep in mind, a "combination" of faults might be in play here. Your best bet is to request a front end inspection/diagnostic during which the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you insofar as identifying the root cause(s) and estimating the repair for you.
My car jerks when I’m going 50-60mph and sometimes dies right after I start it up, when I’m in park or reverse.
ANSWER : Hi there:
On late 1990’s Nissan’s and Infinity models, there are sometimes issues with electrical relays that transmit electrical signals from the power source to individual components. I’m not sure if this is exactly what is going on with your Infinity, but your descriptions seem very worrisome to me. Before this problem gets worse, you should contact one of our local mechanics to complete an electrical inspection on your vehicle or a car is stalling inspection. This will allow them to pinpoint the source of your problems so that you don’t have to replace parts that are not damaged or the root source of your stalling issues.
I have a Dodge Ram and I ran a mailbox over on my right side. When I turn left and right there’s a grinding noise on the right.
ANSWER : After running over the mailbox, the box or stem could have bent the backing plate and is now causing the grinding noise as the backing plate is scraping against the brake rotor on the right side. Inspect your brake system and see what is causing the grinding noise. If you need further assistance with the grinding noise, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
