My car jerks when I’m going 50-60mph and sometimes dies right after I start it up, when I’m in park or reverse.

Sometimes when I am cruising at 50mph or 60mph my car will do a quick jerking motion. Sometimes it is just one or sometimes it's repetitive. Also when the I start the car and leave it in park or reverse (with my foot on the brake) I will listen and hear the car engine slowly die. The power steering, power braking, and acceleration all fail as a result. This will also happen when I am slowing to make a turn or stopped at a red light. I definitely think this is an electrical problem. I think it could be a problem with the alternator or idle.

My car has 360000 miles.
My car's t

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there:

On late 1990’s Nissan’s and Infinity models, there are sometimes issues with electrical relays that transmit electrical signals from the power source to individual components. I’m not sure if this is exactly what is going on with your Infinity, but your descriptions seem very worrisome to me. Before this problem gets worse, you should contact one of our local mechanics to complete an electrical inspection on your vehicle or a car is stalling inspection. This will allow them to pinpoint the source of your problems so that you don’t have to replace parts that are not damaged or the root source of your stalling issues.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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What could the problem be? There are a range of reasons why your car is juddering when you accelerate. Your vehicle could have dirty fuel injectors, a damaged fuel pump, a blocked catalytic converter, a faulty mass airflow sensor, broken spark plugs, or even an accumulation of moisture.
Clogged Fuel Injectors

A clogged fuel injector can prevent the fuel your car needs to accelerate, thus causing you car to jerk in the process. If you hear your car engine stuttering, then the injectors may not be providing an adequate amount of fuel. To fix this, you should clean the injectors on a regular basis.

RPM fluctuation is a common issue for cars with faulty spark plugs as they fire the fuel with the pistons. If they wear out, your acceleration slows, and jerking and misfire start occurring, which, in combination, causes poor fuel economy and vibrations.
The most common reason for a car jerk while accelerating is that one or more of your spark plugs may be going bad, which will lessen performance if the problem persists. If you think this might be the case, have a professional check them and replace them if necessary.
When your car vibrates every time you drive at 50-70 mph, it is most likely that your wheels are out of balance. The vibrations will emanate from the steering wheel across the seat and through the vehicle`s floor.
Hi There, The jerking reaction you are describing may indicate a dirty or failing mass air flow sensor which is a unit that monitors air intake and relays this info to the ECM which then makes adjustments to the fuel supply. This could also possibly be related to intermittent fuel pressure or an ignition problem.
Due to oil in the intake air, carbon deposits or carbon fouling are caused which eventually the force of the valve can no longer cope with ñ the EGR valve can then no longer open, or it remains in its open position. This results in jerking, irregular idling or insuffi cient engine power.
When your car jerks, stumbles or stutters while driving, it usually means something is interfering with the proper distribution and transfer of power from your transmission. Another example is if you`re driving a manual transmission and haven`t gained the feel of shifting for your particular vehicle.
One of the most common causes of a sputtering engine is an issue with the vehicle`s fuel system—the filter, pump, and injectors. These three critical components work together to ensure fuel flows smoothly from the fuel tank to your engine`s fuel injectors, and then pumps into the engine evenly.
If you`re driving at freeway speeds and notice your engine sputter or jerk, you may have a failing fuel pump. This problem is caused when the fuel pump can`t deliver a smooth flow of fuel to the engine; periodically, your engine receives only air when it was expecting to receive fuel.
A car that surges or jerks at high speed is potentially dangerous, especially in heavy traffic or in bad weather. If your vehicle jerks at high speed, you should stop driving it and have it inspected by a mechanic.
While an oil change is essential for your car`s health, it can also cause problems if not done correctly. The wrong type of oil or too little or too much oil can lead to engine damage and other issues that can cause your car to jerk.
Tires. Tires are the most common reason a car shakes when it reaches 60 mph. Tire balance, or lack thereof, makes the steering shake as the car increases in speed. Typically, the shaking begins as an automobile gets to 55 mph and only becomes more problematic as the speedometer increases to 60 or more.
Judder is a phenomenon wherein friction induced torsional vibrations are generated in the driveline because of sliding contact between clutch and flywheel, during engagement. These resulting oscillations inherit the first resonance frequency of the driveline.
When the transmission jerks between gears or the transmission is shifting hard, it should be taken as a warning that your transmission needs repair. When a transmission is shifting hard or slipping it`s time for an inspection.
March 2020. In physics, jerk or jolt is the rate at which an object`s acceleration changes with respect to time. It is a vector quantity (having both magnitude and direction). Jerk is most commonly denoted by the symbol j and expressed in m/s3 (SI units) or standard gravities per second (g0/s).
Just as acceleration is the rate of change (derivative) of velocity, jerk is the rate of change of acceleration. In other words, jerk is the rate at which acceleration is increasing or decreasing. Jerk is generally undesirable because it creates—you guessed it—abrupt, jerky motion.
Typically, when your transmission begins to fail you may start to notice some form of difficulty when changing gears. Occasionally you may hear or feel a clunk noise when you shift gear. Another sign of a rough shifting is difficulty in accelerating to the speed for the gear that it is in.
This monitors the position of your foot on the pedal relative to how much fuel is introduced into the throttle body. When this is faulty, it can cause a jerking or hesitating effect as you describe.
Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
When the EGR valve is clogged or dirty, as they are prone to, it may not function properly causing the engine idle rough, stall at idle speeds, cause the car to get poor fuel mileage, or emit a strong smell of fuel due to excess hydrocarbons which also results in failing emissions tests.
The change in acceleration and deceleration is called “Jerky driving”, which is an important parameter reflecting the driver`s driving style [43, 45] . If a driver tends to start or brake the vehicle with greater acceleration, then his or her driving characteristics are more unstable [18]. …
The most common signs of bad spark plugs include start-up trouble, rough idling, sluggish acceleration, declining fuel economy, engine misfiring, and engine knocking.
This symptom often points to an issue with either your exhaust system, fuel or dirty or worn out parts. In internal combustion running vehicles, and incomplete combustion will cause a sputter. And while a sputtering engine might not seem like a serious issue, it often results in an expensive repair when ignored.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

My car jerks when I’m going 50-60mph and sometimes dies right after I start it up, when I’m in park or reverse.
ANSWER : Hi there:

On late 1990’s Nissan’s and Infinity models, there are sometimes issues with electrical relays that transmit electrical signals from the power source to individual components. I’m not sure if this is exactly what is going on with your Infinity, but your descriptions seem very worrisome to me. Before this problem gets worse, you should contact one of our local mechanics to complete an electrical inspection on your vehicle or a car is stalling inspection. This will allow them to pinpoint the source of your problems so that you don’t have to replace parts that are not damaged or the root source of your stalling issues.

My truck died while driving. Now will start, but dies when I push brake. If I start in neutral, I can put in drive and go but dies – 2003 Ford F250
ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

When I’m driving, sometimes the car over revs and jerks when I shift gears after the cars been on for a while
ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle speed sensors and engine speed sensors. Based on this information, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), or the Transmission Control Unit (TCM), executes the appropriate upshifts and downshifts by sending a signal to one of several shift solenoids. These transmission solenoids have spring-loaded plungers inside them, which are wrapped with wire. When this coil of wire receives an electrical charge from the TCM / ECU, it causes these plungers to open, allowing transmission fluid to flow into the valve body and pressurize the desired clutches and bands. When this happens, the transmission changes gears and you continue down the road. The computer controls the transmission solenoid in several ways. If the vehicle is equipped with a dedicated Transmission Control Unit, it can open or close the hydraulic circuit using a direct 12v signal. In some cases, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) can control the solenoid’s plunger by turning the ground circuit on and off. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your transmission.

Car will not start intermittently while in PARK but always starts on NEUTRAL.
ANSWER : Hi there, thank you for writing in and providing a detailed description. I’d be happy to give my insight on what to do next.

I would make the same conclusion about the neutral safety switch. I think Pep Boys made the right call. I admit, I don’t like to call a part bad without being able to duplicate the problem, but anytime a customer states their car starts in neutral but not park, we replace the neutral safety switch. I can’t recall a time that this move was wrong.

The intermittent nature of your problem does’t change this diagnosis either. The same electrical connection can work one moment and not the next. Electricity works at the atomic level that we as humans can’t directly observe, which is why we have tools to do electrical testing. Your tow truck driver got it correct.

Hope this helps and best of luck! If you’d like help replacing your neutral safety switch, consider having one of our expert automotive technicians come to your home or office to do it for you.

car hesitates when trying to start the car ,but when started then i shut car off and start again it will start right up
ANSWER : Hi there:

Sometimes when you have problems starting an engine initially it is caused by a restriction in fuel flow; caused either by clogged fuel injectors or the throttle body that needs to be cleaned. Once the fuel starts to flow and engine warms up, it’s much easier to start. However, it could also be an air filter, EGR valve or other components that causes this issue as well, which is why it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection so they can pinpoint the source of this issue.

My car won’t start, neither does my auto. Start. Sometime it might start if I jump it sometimes it won’t.
ANSWER : Hi there. There are a number of issues that will make a car hard to start. Everything from the electrical system to the fuel system to the actual starter itself can be the problem. Finding the root cause of a hard starting engine can take some investigation. Ignoring a hard starting issue can further damage the vehicle, which will often result in a more expensive repair. You might want to have a mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection so they can pinpoint the source of the issues you’re having and recommend the right repairs be completed.

Cranks over start than dies
ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.