car making womp womp noise and pop

ANSWER : A common cause of a noise like that is tire belt (internal) separation, flat spot(s) on tire or other tire defects. If the tires end up being excluded during a diagnostic, the CV axles, wheel bearings, and unfortunately the transmission and clutch have to be considered. The noise on turning is suggestive of a possibly defective outer CV joint but very loose tie rods ends and ball joints can sometimes be implicated. Also, it is possible to have a bad strut bearing, in the strut mount. Keep in mind, a "combination" of faults might be in play here. Your best bet is to request a front end inspection/diagnostic during which the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you insofar as identifying the root cause(s) and estimating the repair for you.

ANSWER : Hey there, thanks for writing in. I would have a professional mechanic check out the constant velocity joints on your vehicle. One or more of them may be worn enough to cause the noises you describe. S/he can diagnose and replace any failed CV joints.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided your vehicle’s moaning noise and intermittent stalling problem could be any number of things. It could be a failed alternator diode making the moaning noise and affecting the idle.

A failed alternator diode(s) allows voltage to flow both directions or no flow at all resulting in noise heard and erratic electrical operation. It could be a faulty idle air control valve. The idle air control valve can make noise and would account for the erratic idle and sporadic dying. It could be an accessory component, such as an A/C compressor, serpentine belt tensioner, or idler pulley, power steering pump making noise and placing undo load on the engine at idle. If you would like to have this done, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the noise and stalling issue.

ANSWER : Hello – noises from under the car when starting and stopping are most likely from suspension components, especially with your advanced mileage. The vehicle rocks front-to-back in both scenarios because of shifts in weight distribution. Worn ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar links, and strut bearings are all stressed during start/stop activity. I would recommend a thorough inspection of the suspension for work or failing components by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : After seeing the video, you will need to have the lower ball joints and bushings checked to see if one or all need to be replaced. You should also have the exhaust checked to see why the engine is so loud. A professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, will be able to thoroughly conduct tests to diagnose your vehicle’s popping noise and make the appropriate repairs.

ANSWER : A possibility is a faulty ignition switch. If the switch opens after the car starts, the engine will shut off. But, that is just a possibility and a diagnostic would have to be performed to rule that in or out. Be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Starters motors can display intermittent operation if they are faulty. With a fully charged battery, if the starter motor does not run that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit (includes the ignition switch) or a problem with the starter motor itself. If there is power to the starter motor and yet it doesn’t run, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter, or there is a big voltage drop anywhere on the circuit to the starter, then the circuit has to be traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. When the vehicle sits for an extended period of time, the oil collects at the bottom of the engine due to gravity. This causes the engine and components in which the oil lubricates to run dry. There is no problem with this while the engine is off, and every car does this. Now when the vehicle turns on, the engine will need a moment to circulate that oil throughout the engine. Once the oil becomes warm enough to be the viscosity in which the engine desires, and everything has had a moment to become lubricated again, there should not be any more noises coming from the valves. If this is a new noise or it is irritating to you, you can attempt to change your oil or maybe even change the type of oil that you were using. The noise is simply the engine not having oil when it first starts up. But this is normal.

ANSWER : It sounds like you may be dealing with a few issues. I would start by asking if there is a check engine light on? If there is, then getting the engine control module scanned for faults would be the first step to diagnosing the low power issue. As far as the noise over bumps and when turning, there could be a damaged CV joint or axle shaft, or there could be a loose suspension or steering component. Weak motor mounts could cause a weird noise and shake when going into reverse with your foot on the brake, so it’s possible those have failed as well. I would suggest having a qualified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose the noise over bumps and the noise when put in reverse.