the car will crank but die a few minutes later but if I keep pressing the gas it will stay on but when I stop it will cut off soon

ANSWER : Hi there. It is indeed possible that a canister EVAP solenoid is the source of your hard to start issue. However, the problem with most auto parts store "scans" is they make way too many assumptions on the source of the problem. The truth is that most error codes indicate different components within the same system that are causing a symptom that the sensors detect. For example, one of the possible (4) EVAP solenoid codes could be caused by the canister itself, the solenoid, electrical harness or the purge solenoid. This is why it’a always best to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location to complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can download the codes and complete an actual inspection of the possible sources to find the precise source of the issue.

ANSWER : The first thing you need to check for in a case like yours is air leaks. Check all the rubber parts and hoses under the hood for good condition and connection. The amount of fuel delivered to your engine is determined by the air that flows in and any air that gets in through a leak without being measured means less fuel being injected. There are of course a number of other possible causes; a failed Mass Air Flow Sensor for example, but they will require special skills and equipment to be examined. You can have this conveniently checked out by contacting Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home or office to check out your car and let you know exactly what it will take to solve your problem.

ANSWER : It sounds like you have 2 problems here, the starter and an engine stalling problem. The starter problem is probably the starter solenoid, a power switch (integrated into the starter assembly) that takes a small current from the ignition switch and engages a large current at the starter. The contacts in the solenoid can burn over time, "sticking", which can cause the starter "run-on" like you described, and a "no crank" condition, because the same burned contacts don’t pass heavy current very well. The poor idling may be due to a dirty idle air control valve, dirty throttle body, or air leak in the intake system of the engine. I would recommend having YourMechanic dispatch a mobile, professional mechanic to your location to do a (Starter Replacement)[https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/starter-replacement] and car starting trouble inspection.

ANSWER : This may sound like a dumb question, but when was the last time you put gas in it? It may be possible that the fuel gauge sending unit is failing and giving you a false reading. It is also possible that you have an electrical concern. If you have the Check Engine Light on, it will indicate that there is a diagnostic trouble code stored. If so, have the vehicle scanned for the codes, and that may help identify the system or component that requires further testing. A certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, will be able to diagnose these trouble codes and determine the exact cause of your concern.

ANSWER : Hey there. It sounds like you may have a mass air sensor problem or an intake leak between the throttle body and mass air sensor. This is a perfect example of why you should have a mechanic conduct a pre-purchase inspection. The inspection would have identified the vehicle has problems before you decided to purchase it. My best recommendation now would be to have a local expert, like one from YourMechanic, come to your car’s location to diagnose the stalling issue and have this corrected properly.

ANSWER : What you are describing sounds like a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve monitors the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. This valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer and will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. This is also an important function when starting the motor as it allows the motor to run and idle on it’s own once the motor fires. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed while adjusting the air/fuel ratio constantly to allow this to happen smoothly. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about 800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.

If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.

If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.

When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.

All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.

If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.

ANSWER : Your vehicle sounds like it is starving for fuel. If the fuel pump is going bad it may make noise. The lack of power may be due to a loss of fuel pressure, mass air flow sensor problem, or one of the computer sensors like the camshaft or crankshaft sensor is malfunctioning.

I recommend having the fuel pressure checked and getting the computer scanned for codes to the sensors. These checks will help pinpoint the problem. If decide to get this fixed, consider YourMechanic, as a certified technician can help you diagnose your stalling issue and driving symptoms. An accurate repair can then be made once the problem has been pinpointed. Goo luck.