My car keeps cutting off and jerking when i try to drive it and when i push on the gas the car moves slow make a noise and cut off

ANSWER : Your vehicle sounds like it is starving for fuel. If the fuel pump is going bad it may make noise. The lack of power may be due to a loss of fuel pressure, mass air flow sensor problem, or one of the computer sensors like the camshaft or crankshaft sensor is malfunctioning.

I recommend having the fuel pressure checked and getting the computer scanned for codes to the sensors. These checks will help pinpoint the problem. If decide to get this fixed, consider YourMechanic, as a certified technician can help you diagnose your stalling issue and driving symptoms. An accurate repair can then be made once the problem has been pinpointed. Goo luck.

ANSWER : Hi – first thing to check is for proper transmission fluid level. If fluid level is correct, this may be a transmission failure (forward clutches). I would recommend a transmission inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : This would suggest that you may have a charging system problem as well as the car potentially being in limp mode. When the car goes into limp mode this is a measure the car’s computer takes in an effort to keep you and the car safe when one or more critical components is not working properly. When this happens you should have a Check Engine Light on which will register fault codes in the car’s computer which will point to specific components. I would recommend having an certified expert, like one from YourMechanic, come to your home to diagnose your starting issue and help you repair it.

ANSWER : Hey there, thanks for writing in. I would have a professional mechanic check out the constant velocity joints on your vehicle. One or more of them may be worn enough to cause the noises you describe. S/he can diagnose and replace any failed CV joints.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided your vehicle’s moaning noise and intermittent stalling problem could be any number of things. It could be a failed alternator diode making the moaning noise and affecting the idle.

A failed alternator diode(s) allows voltage to flow both directions or no flow at all resulting in noise heard and erratic electrical operation. It could be a faulty idle air control valve. The idle air control valve can make noise and would account for the erratic idle and sporadic dying. It could be an accessory component, such as an A/C compressor, serpentine belt tensioner, or idler pulley, power steering pump making noise and placing undo load on the engine at idle. If you would like to have this done, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the noise and stalling issue.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. It sounds like your battery has crashed. When the system voltage drops below a certain point, the electronics go haywire. The alternator is supposed to maintain the battery voltage at around 14 volts, and I’m guessing that your’s is not working. When the alternator stops charging, the car can continue to run on stored energy in the battery for a few hours, until the voltage falls below about 10 volts, then all those crazy things start happening.

It’s hard to say without hearing it, but the "airplane" noise may be coming from your failed alternator. I don’t recommend running out and buying a new alternator right away, the battery needs to be fully charged or replaced so that you can have a proper tests performed.

Charging or installing a battery, or even jumping one off, is a risky business on a modern car. Connecting the cables incorrectly for even a moment can do a lot of expensive damage to the various modules in your car.

I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home or office to confirm a diagnosis on the issue and make or suggest the necessary repairs or replacements.

ANSWER : Hello, the concern you have I strongly advise not to drive. The issue needs to be addressed, the vehicle will become inoperable. The automatic transmission has 3 systems; electronic, hydraulic, and mechanical. What describe could be an internal mechanical failure with transmission. The electrical system which includes the module, will go into a default mode if there is a failure with it. This mode allows forward gears and reverse depending on what has failed. If you’d like, a certified Your Mechanic Technician can come to your location to verify what type of failure the transmission has. Please look at this web site for more information and service options.
transmission inspection

ANSWER : Hi there. The rattling noise could be the drive belt or pulley that is loose when not under a load. When turning the wheels or on highway driving conditions, the noise may not be there for the engine is under a load. Try turning on the air conditioner and see if the noise goes away. If so, then the tensioner could have a weak spring.

Billing question was sent to CS for the cost of diagnosing a rattling noise on the engine and the cost of replacing the parts after the diagnosis of a 2000 Toyota Corolla with a L4-1.8L engine.