When I go to crank my car the key stays in the start position and the car is constantly trying to crank itself.

When I place the key in the ignition and proceed to crank the car the key stays in the start position and the car is constantly trying to start itself up but never actually turns over. I then have to manually turn the key back so the car can stop trying to start up. I have had the fuel pump replaced and the crank position sensor. The car worked like normal for one entire day and then the same problem reoccurred. Though I don't think this is the problem but each time the car wouldn't start it was parked on a semi incline in our driveway. But we have parked it her numerous of times befor
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.

If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.

If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.

When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.

All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.

If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.

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This is normal behavior in many cars with electronically controlled ignition. Turning the key to start sends a signal to the engine computer to use the starter. Then the computer tries, unsuccessfully in your case, to crank the engine until it starts.
This is usually a sign of a faulty starter solenoid. There are a few wires that connect to the starter solenoid coming from the battery, the starter, and the ignition switch.
When an engine cranks for a long time before it starts, either spark or fuel is missing or weak and each has its own reasons. Most of the time, the air / fuel mixture has been disturbed and there is too much air or not enough fuel.
Typically when your electrical accessories are working well, but it takes a few cranks for the engine to start, the issue is with the fuel or ignition system. In most cases, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, throttle body or mass air flow sensor will be the root source of this problem.
Hard start symptoms and starter failure may NOT be caused by the starter, but could actually be caused by the crankshaft position sensor. If your vehicle is experiencing one or more of these symptoms, the crankshaft sensor may be at fault.
Bad Sensors

One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.

Solenoid coil failure can be caused by a number of factors. Applying an incorrect voltage to the coil will cause it to fail and may cause the coil to burn out. Electrical surges or spikes may also damage the coil. Burnt out coils cannot be repaired and will need to be replaced.
One of the best ways to determine if a car fuse has blown is by using a test light. It should illuminate both ends of the fuse, and, if it doesn`t, it needs to be replaced. Sometimes, a blown fuse is caused by a damaged wire, motor, or other part.
The problem could be a weak fuel pump, leaking fuel injectors, worn starter, weak battery, or faulty temperature sensor. Good technicians will be able to test and determine the issue more accurately if they can experience the issue themselves.
A manifold vacuum and/or barometric pressure, throttle position, engine RPM, coolant temperature, and vehicle speed sensor all modify the timing program.
Why won`t my car start but I have power? If you attempt to start up your car but the engine won`t turn over and the dashboard lights up, then you most likely have an issue with your battery. You could have a damaged or corroded battery terminal, which is stopping the engine from starting up when you fully turn the key.
There are a few things that can cause the crankshaft position sensor to fail, including damage, debris and faulty circuitry. Even for modern electronics, the engine is a violent and destructive environment. Though built for this, most sensors eventually succumb to the ever-present heat and vibrations of the engine.
The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and speed of the crankshaft and other parameters that play an important role when starting the engine. If the crankshaft position sensor is having a problem, the vehicle may have intermittent starting issues or not start at all.
Connected to the battery is the alternator, which works to generate power for your vehicle`s electrical components. When you have a brand-new battery but still can`t start the car, the alternator might be the issue. Cold and damp climates may increase wear on an alternator, causing it to fail.
Manual Reset Solenoid Valves

This is what is known as Manual Reset. To cause the valve to change from its rest state, the coil must be energised and the lever or knob pulled to the fully open position. If the valve is energised without the manual intervention, it will not open.

Signs of a Bad Starter Solenoid

One of the first and most common symptoms is simply no response from the starter when you turn the key – no noises or engine cranking at all. Sometimes, repeatedly trying the ignition can produce a result, but that`s not guaranteed.

If you don`t hear clicking when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear clicking, but the engine doesn`t crank, the starter might not be getting enough electricity. Using your owner`s manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.
The starter solenoid is above the starter motor. The threaded terminal at left would connect to the battery through a heavy cable. At the right end of the solenoid coil, a linkage inside the housing would engage the pinion visible in the housing at the right side of the motor.
An ignition control module is usually located somewhere in the engine compartment, either on the engine, the distributor assembly, or the firewall (the panel that separates the engine from the passenger compartment).
Locate and open the fuse box.

In some vehicles, the fuse box is located in the glovebox. You may need to refer to your vehicle`s manual to find your fuse box. Pop the hood and remove the cover of the fuse box. Here, you`re going to check the fuse for your ignition switch relay.

To check if the ignition module is getting voltage, set the multimeter to AC voltage (VAC) reading and check for voltage at the thermostat input or 24VAC input to the Ignition Control Module. You should get a reading of 24VAC with respect to common or ground.
Solenoid issues may cause your vehicle to go into “limp mode,” a mode created to shield your engine and transmission from catastrophic failure and a severe accident. In Limp Mode, the entire vehicle will begin to grow weak in its power and the ability to accelerate.
Ignoring a warning light or code being thrown by a faulty transmission shift solenoid can lead to serious problems, such as running your vehicle in the wrong gear for your speed and conditions. This can then lead to your transmission overheating and breaking down.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

When I go to crank my car the key stays in the start position and the car is constantly trying to crank itself.
ANSWER : First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.

If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.

If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.

When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.

All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.

If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.

Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.

If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Charging warning light comes on when i turn the key and try to start the car and the car want start but when someone tried to give
ANSWER : Hi there:

If you recently replaced your battery, the issue may be caused by a malfunctioning alternator or other electrical component that comprises the charging system on your Nissan Sentra. The best way to find out which item specifically is faulty, is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection. This will allow the mechanic to determine the precise source of what’s going on with your Sentra and recommend or complete the right repairs.

Car won’t crank when it’s cold and now won’t start at all
ANSWER : Hi there:

Usually this issue is cased by low cranking amps inside the battery. If you’ve recently had the battery replaced, it’s possible that an electrical component that makes up the charging system might be damaged or faulty. It’s also quite possible that the main electrical relay or the starter relay is giving you fits. To know for certain what the exact issue might be on your 1989 Toyota Camry, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can pinpoint the source of your issues and recommend the right repairs.

Car was sometimes not starting, not even cranking when i turned the key then after a few times itd start. Now it ont start at all
ANSWER : Hi there:

Without being there to inspect your vehicle, or having information about what type of car, truck or SUV you own, it’s very hard for us to give you some advice. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection; so they can come to your location and determine why your vehicle is having these issues.

Car cranks but won’t start
ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like the spare key isn’t being recognized by the immobilizer system. The method you stated that you performed sounded like the procedure to manually program the wireless fob portion to lock and unlock the doors. If the key isn’t programmed or the immobilizer system has lost the registration, then it will need to be completed and this usually has to be completed by the dealer. Unfortunately, Your Mechanic does not offer key programming services. Your Mechanic does have available technicians that come to your home or office to perform requested services, inspections, and repairs. Feel free to schedule your next service at www.yourmechanic.com.

how to fix no keys issue if i dont have the car’s keys
ANSWER : The 2010 Maxima uses the ’Nissan Intelligent Key" system. The only way to start the car is to have the key fob in the vehicle while using the start button. There is no way to defeat this requirement as this is part of the engine immobilizer system. If the key fob is lost, one can be procured from a Nissan dealer. If somehow your vehicle was equipped with a transponder chip key (instead of the Intelligent Key system), you must have a transponder chip that is programmed specifically to your vehicle. If you need the assistance of a Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request an electrical component diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will assist you in obtaining a replacement key fob or transponder key. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

I put the wrong key in my car and a few weeks later my car just shut down and it will not start I believe it’s the computer but…
ANSWER : Hi there. What had happened is the wrong key set the security to the vehicle. This is to prevent the vehicle from starting with the wrong keys. Try removing the battery cables (+) and (-) for 13 minutes. During that time, put the original key in the ignition and turn it on. Activate everything in the car even though there is no power. Then remove the key and hook up the battery cables. The computer should have reset and reset the security. If the security is still being tripped, then I recommend seeking out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you