Rattling noise from front driver tire after wheel bearing replacement

ANSWER : A wheel bearing noise can be different between vehicles as some designs may vary a little. The most common is a roaring noise that may change when going around turns. It may be louder going in one direction or the other or just make a loud noise all of the time. The wheel hub presses into the wheel bearing. The hub is where the studs are for the wheel to be bolted onto the steering knuckle and the bearing provides the support for the wheel and weight of the vehicle. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at your wheel bearing noise to offer a more personal diagnosis.

ANSWER : Hi there. On a front wheel drive vehicle, the only two items that could possible cause this, besides a wheel bearing that was not properly lubricated and installed during the replacement, would be a brake caliper that is dragging on the brake rotor or a CV axle or joint that is damaged. Really without completing a physical inspection or test drive, any ’guesses’ on our part would simply be an educated guess. It’s probably best to have a professional mechanic complete a test drive and try to diagnose this problem before making or suggesting any repairs.

ANSWER : A clicking noise on turning is very characteristic of a failed outboard CV axle joint. Sometimes, in such a circumstance, you can see that the rubber outboard boot is actually torn and leaking grease. If you see that (look behind the wheel toward the axle end), the axle for sure will have to be serviced. If you change the axle, be sure to install a new rubber seal on the transmission output side so that you do not have transmission fluid leaks with the new axle (a common mistake is to overlook that seal; if an old, left-in-place seal leaks after the axle is put in the job has to be done all over again). Vibration without actual shaking of the steering wheel "might" be related to the axle issue. On the other hand, such vibration could also be due to a failed wheel bearing, especially with over 200,000 miles on the vehicle and if those are the original bearings. If you were to need both an axle and a wheel bearing at the same time, and on the same side, that’s actually not that bad because the steering knuckle that holds the wheel bearing has to come off anyway to replace the axle. But, backing up here, the very first thing to do is get the issue properly diagnosed so you spend the minimum possible. If you want to obtain a diagnostic, please request a vehicle CV/wheel bearing noise inspection and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Chances are there was an existing issue that was amplified by the tire rotation. There are several parts that will cause similar symptoms. You will want to consider the parts that are under load in 4wd, that are free when in 2wd. This would include the axle and sveral joints. There are a couple of tests that can be done. More damage was likely done driving on dry pavement in 4wd. It was a good step in diagnostics, but should be avoided. For more help with diagnosing the sounds, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : The wheel hub bearing could be getting noisy or the scraping noise could be caused by the brake pad material. The most common cause of such noise is when the metallic material in the brake pad makes a scraping noise when brakes are not being applied and then it becomes noisier when the brakes are applied.

Bad or faulty lower control arm bushings will cause the noise to resonate through the frame and body of the car when compared to good rubber bushings that would normally isolate most of the noise.

First, get a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to replace the control arm bushings and check the brakes for any cracks in the brake pad material and excessive metal material in the pads that can cause the noise. At the same time, get the wheel hub bearings checked for noise and replaced, if necessary.

ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.

ANSWER : You’re wise to go back to factory fasteners. While there are a few good quality aftermarket products out there for your car, most of the options are a kind of one-size-fits-all that involve spacers and adapters that change the design offset and lead to all kinds of suspension and wheel bearing problems. you should not need to replace the hubs as long as the threads are not damaged. It should be possible to extract the studs through conventional means. If a hub IS damaged, then there is no choice but to replace it. This will involve replacing the wheel bearing as well so it can get expensive. If this project is more than you want to take on, you can contact Your Mechanic to have a technician come to your home or office and change out your wheels for you

ANSWER : Hi there:

Cupping on a tire is one of the more difficult items to diagnose; due to the multiple causes of cupping. In most cases, cupping is caused by suspension components like struts that are worn out; causing the tire to absorb more shock than it should. When you combine this with low air pressure, poor tire quality or certain driving methods; the tread on the tire will separate, causing the tire to "cup". The best way to pinpoint why your tires are cupping is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a cupping on tires inspection.