I hear an abnormal noise from front driver’s side wheel. It sounds like a wheel bearing but not sure.

ANSWER : A wheel bearing noise can be different between vehicles as some designs may vary a little. The most common is a roaring noise that may change when going around turns. It may be louder going in one direction or the other or just make a loud noise all of the time. The wheel hub presses into the wheel bearing. The hub is where the studs are for the wheel to be bolted onto the steering knuckle and the bearing provides the support for the wheel and weight of the vehicle. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at your wheel bearing noise to offer a more personal diagnosis.

ANSWER : A clicking noise on turning is very characteristic of a failed outboard CV axle joint. Sometimes, in such a circumstance, you can see that the rubber outboard boot is actually torn and leaking grease. If you see that (look behind the wheel toward the axle end), the axle for sure will have to be serviced. If you change the axle, be sure to install a new rubber seal on the transmission output side so that you do not have transmission fluid leaks with the new axle (a common mistake is to overlook that seal; if an old, left-in-place seal leaks after the axle is put in the job has to be done all over again). Vibration without actual shaking of the steering wheel "might" be related to the axle issue. On the other hand, such vibration could also be due to a failed wheel bearing, especially with over 200,000 miles on the vehicle and if those are the original bearings. If you were to need both an axle and a wheel bearing at the same time, and on the same side, that’s actually not that bad because the steering knuckle that holds the wheel bearing has to come off anyway to replace the axle. But, backing up here, the very first thing to do is get the issue properly diagnosed so you spend the minimum possible. If you want to obtain a diagnostic, please request a vehicle CV/wheel bearing noise inspection and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : If you diagnosed the noise then the mechanic that comes to you could verify the needed repairs needed for you if you want to have the noise diagnosed on one visit and then the install of needed parts on another visit. It is up to you to the way to move forward with the repair or diagnosis. Just let the technician know when he arrives and he could do whatever you need.

ANSWER : The steering rack and pinion assembly is mounted in rubber bushings; they may be deteriorated and allowing the rack and pinion to contact the sub frame making the knocking noise.

The other component to look at is the struts upper bearing and rubber bushing. These get dry of lubricant and should be lubed with a teflon grease when installed so the rubber will not get damaged.

Have someone feel the top of the strut mount under the hood while the steering is turned back and forth to see if the knocking or popping is in the strut. The rack and pinion bushings should be inspected from under the vehicle.

If either or both are bad then they will need to be replaced.

A mobile mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, can come to your home or business to inspect the knocking noise at your home or business.

ANSWER : The likelihood of concealed damage depends on the circumstances surrounding the failure. For example, if the wheel locked at 60 MPH, it is possible that the powertrain and axle experienced unusual high loading. Although the vehicle has a differential there are still going to be shock loads when you suddenly stop one wheel. However, whether the excessive loads actually caused any damage is unknowable short of disassembly. There are two options, at least: 1) Have the seller repair the wheel bearing so that the car can be evaluated as best as possible; and 2) buy the car "as is", that is as a junk vehicle, therefore subtract $2,000 to $3,000 to cover the costs of any possible concealed damage. Unless the price is already really low, don’t be afraid to ask for a substantial discount in your present circumstances because the controlling facts are: 1) you WOULD be taking a substantial risk buying a non functioning, untested vehicle; and 2) it is not likely there are going to be too many other purchasers in the picture, so your negotiating position is good (most people do not want to assume this kind of risk). To further protect yourself in the transaction, you can also request a pre-purchase vehicle inspection. That inspection, carried out by a certified Mechanic, dispatched to your location, will give you lots of data regarding the condition of the rest of the car. If you look at the just cited link for YourMechanic’s inspection service, you will see a long list of the vehicle systems that are inspected as well as details of YourMechanic’s inspection methodology. If we can assist you further, please do not hesitate for a moment to re-contact YourMechanic during your attempt to make a wise and economical used vehicle purchase.

ANSWER : Hi there. If you replaced only one tire, this could be an interior wheel weight hitting against the brake caliper. It could also be an issue with a steering stabilizer bar bushing, CV joint or other suspension component. It might be a great idea to have one of our professional mobile mechanics come to your location to complete a car is making a noise inspection, so they can isolate the root source of this noise and recommend repairs that will resolve the issue.

ANSWER : Hi there:

It really depends on what type of 1998 Ford you have, but in general, yes; there are individual components in the front suspension that could cause this type of noise to occur, ranging from steering stabilizer bushings to ball joints or CV joints being worn out and needing to be replaced. The best way to diagnose this issue is to contact a mobile mechanic and have them complete a car is making a noise inspection. It’s best to drive your car for about 20 minutes or so before the mechanic arrives so they can replicate the conditions.

ANSWER : Hi there. On a front wheel drive vehicle, the only two items that could possible cause this, besides a wheel bearing that was not properly lubricated and installed during the replacement, would be a brake caliper that is dragging on the brake rotor or a CV axle or joint that is damaged. Really without completing a physical inspection or test drive, any ’guesses’ on our part would simply be an educated guess. It’s probably best to have a professional mechanic complete a test drive and try to diagnose this problem before making or suggesting any repairs.