I hear a loud clicking noise on the drivers side by my tire rim when turning the steering wheel front tires vibrating as well.

I have a 2000 honda civic and I hear a loud clicking noise on the drivers side by my tire rim when turning the steering wheel the front tires are also vibrating when driving. The steering wheel does not shake and the car doesnt pull to the left or right which leads me to believe its not a allignment problem. I also had the tires themselves examined at tire shop. No problems with tires. Im thinking its something like the drivers side CV shaft. Any advice would be appreciated.

My car has 205000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
A clicking noise on turning is very characteristic of a failed outboard CV axle joint. Sometimes, in such a circumstance, you can see that the rubber outboard boot is actually torn and leaking grease. If you see that (look behind the wheel toward the axle end), the axle for sure will have to be serviced. If you change the axle, be sure to install a new rubber seal on the transmission output side so that you do not have transmission fluid leaks with the new axle (a common mistake is to overlook that seal; if an old, left-in-place seal leaks after the axle is put in the job has to be done all over again). Vibration without actual shaking of the steering wheel "might" be related to the axle issue. On the other hand, such vibration could also be due to a failed wheel bearing, especially with over 200,000 miles on the vehicle and if those are the original bearings. If you were to need both an axle and a wheel bearing at the same time, and on the same side, that’s actually not that bad because the steering knuckle that holds the wheel bearing has to come off anyway to replace the axle. But, backing up here, the very first thing to do is get the issue properly diagnosed so you spend the minimum possible. If you want to obtain a diagnostic, please request a vehicle CV/wheel bearing noise inspection and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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If your tires are worn down, you`ll hear a clicking noise every time you turn. You can usually tell if your tires are worn down by checking the tread depth. If the tread depth is less than 2/32 inch, then the tires need to be replaced.
CV joints allow the front wheels to receive power to move. When the CV joints become worn, they become loose and produce a clicking sound when turning.
Clicking or popping sounds that come from the wheels could result from any the following components: Damaged constant velocity joint. Worn or damaged struts. Loosely or broken hubcaps.
A knocking or clicking sound may be due to the splines on the axle shafts being worn out, in which case the defective shaft has to be replaced. Another reason for this may be chipped teeth on one or more of the gears in the differential. Again, they`ll need to be replaced.
A loud clicking noise when turning left or right can usually be attributed to a faulty CV joint. Your car`s CV joints are covered with grease and enclosed in protective boots. If this boot breaks, grease will leak out and the CV joint will become unlubricated.
If your car is making clicking sounds when driving, a likely culprit is low or dirty engine oil. Motor oil lubricates all of the components so that you can drive with ease. If you are running low on engine oil, the metal parts may start to tap and grind over time.
Bad Tires/Bad Left Tire – A knocking sound may be heard when tires go bad, if they are unbalanced or misaligned, or if there is a broken belt in one of the tires. Wheel Bearings – If a wheel bearing is severely worn out the wheel will not be able to spin freely. This may cause a knocking sound to be heard.
As the damage worsens, a faulty CV can produce a loud click, popping, or clunk sound. When making a tight turn at a low rate, frequent brake noise at low speed (caused by damage to the outer CV joints) causes grinding noises. A bad CV joint also causes a vibration in the steering wheel and the car`s floorboard.
“Clicking” Noises When Turning

Though it`s sometimes described as a loud click and sometimes described as a pop, this noise is unmistakable once you hear it. It presents itself when you turn the vehicle, and it`s due to the loose joints of a worn CV axle.

A clicking sound that happens mainly when you drive slowly, particularly when you are braking, could be a sign of a loose brake pad. If the pad is not properly secured to the caliper, it moves around at slower speeds and makes a clicking sound when you apply the brakes.
Tick increases speed with increase of rpm – Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Stack Exchange. Stack Overflow for Teams – Start collaborating and sharing organizational knowledge.
You may be able to drive on a bad CV axle for several months, but it depends on the extent of the damage. We`re obliged to let you know that the safest thing to do is get the axle replaced immediately. The longer you wait, the worse the damage will be.
Escaping gases: Scientists explain that synovial fluid present in your joints acts as a lubricant. The fluid contains the gases oxygen, nitrogen, and carbon dioxide. When you pop or crack a joint, you stretch the joint capsule. Gas is rapidly released, which forms bubbles.
When a wheel hub bearing wears out, it puts extra stress on the CV-joint. That can cause the knocking/clunking noise when you turn the vehicle.
If you hear a clunking sound when you turn your wheel at a normal speed then your power steering could be the problem. You could have a loose belt, low power steering fluid or your power steering pump could be failing.
Dirty fuel injectors can lead to a ticking noise in the engine because they can lead to misfires producing a ticking noise. Misfires occur when the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber fails to ignite or ignites at the wrong time. This situation causes a momentary loss of power and a ticking noise.
If you drive a car with a damaged CV, the joint will deteriorate more, making driving impossible. You`ll be at risk of getting into an accident. In summary, it is advisable to neve drive a vehicle with faulty CV joints.
When a front CV axle goes bad, it will make a clunking noise as you make a slow turn. When a rear axle goes bad, the clunking or moaning sound will be in the back.
Another symptom of driveshaft issues is loud clunking noises. These noises are usually produced by worn-out u-joints. The ability of your driveshaft to rotate correctly is altered if your vehicle has a faulty u-joint. Lack of u-joint lubrication can cause squeaking noises when you drive at low speeds.
Often, the right (passenger side) shaft fails first because right turns are at a sharper angle than left turns, and right turns are more common than left turns. Consequently, the right outer CV joint and boot are the first to go.
A telltale sign that your vibration may be caused by a faulty CV joint is if you also hear a clicking or clunking noise when turning. Also known as engine mounts, motor mounts hold your car`s engine in place.
Unbolt the cover or carefully remove the big clamp and pull the boot back. Next, drain or scoop the old grease into a pan. If the joint is dry, remove the axle to clean the joint, and then add new grease and clamp the boot. If the joint is wet, add a packet of grease and install a new clamp.
The best way to identify a bad CV axle is to visually and physically check the part. With the parking brake enabled, raise the front of the car. From here, you can check the axles at the point of their inner and outer joints. An immediate sign of concern is whether or not the CV boots are damaged or cracked.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

I hear a loud clicking noise on the drivers side by my tire rim when turning the steering wheel front tires vibrating as well.
ANSWER : A clicking noise on turning is very characteristic of a failed outboard CV axle joint. Sometimes, in such a circumstance, you can see that the rubber outboard boot is actually torn and leaking grease. If you see that (look behind the wheel toward the axle end), the axle for sure will have to be serviced. If you change the axle, be sure to install a new rubber seal on the transmission output side so that you do not have transmission fluid leaks with the new axle (a common mistake is to overlook that seal; if an old, left-in-place seal leaks after the axle is put in the job has to be done all over again). Vibration without actual shaking of the steering wheel "might" be related to the axle issue. On the other hand, such vibration could also be due to a failed wheel bearing, especially with over 200,000 miles on the vehicle and if those are the original bearings. If you were to need both an axle and a wheel bearing at the same time, and on the same side, that’s actually not that bad because the steering knuckle that holds the wheel bearing has to come off anyway to replace the axle. But, backing up here, the very first thing to do is get the issue properly diagnosed so you spend the minimum possible. If you want to obtain a diagnostic, please request a vehicle CV/wheel bearing noise inspection and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

Sudden play & random tugging in steering wheel. Hear clicking from steering wheel & front left tire both while driving straight.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Checking the brakes was a great place to start. At this point the first thing we need to find out is if symptoms happen always, or only when driving over bumpy roads. If you feel it only when going over bumps, you want to check the suspension. If the suspension is not up to par on the vehicle, you will feel and fight those forces in the steering wheel. You can perform a bounce test, and do a visual inspection to see if the suspension shows any signs of leakage or damage. This would include the ball joints. If the suspension seems to be okay, you want to turn your attention to the rack and pinion. For more help with diagnostics and resolving the issue, contact our service department.

Strong knocking from front driver’s side and passenger side when making turns left OR right.
ANSWER : The steering rack and pinion assembly is mounted in rubber bushings; they may be deteriorated and allowing the rack and pinion to contact the sub frame making the knocking noise.

The other component to look at is the struts upper bearing and rubber bushing. These get dry of lubricant and should be lubed with a teflon grease when installed so the rubber will not get damaged.

Have someone feel the top of the strut mount under the hood while the steering is turned back and forth to see if the knocking or popping is in the strut. The rack and pinion bushings should be inspected from under the vehicle.

If either or both are bad then they will need to be replaced.

A mobile mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, can come to your home or business to inspect the knocking noise at your home or business.

Loud repetitive noise coming from front tire in 2 wheel drive, goes away when in 4 wheel drive.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Chances are there was an existing issue that was amplified by the tire rotation. There are several parts that will cause similar symptoms. You will want to consider the parts that are under load in 4wd, that are free when in 2wd. This would include the axle and sveral joints. There are a couple of tests that can be done. More damage was likely done driving on dry pavement in 4wd. It was a good step in diagnostics, but should be avoided. For more help with diagnosing the sounds, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

I hear an abnormal noise from front driver’s side wheel. It sounds like a wheel bearing but not sure.
ANSWER : A wheel bearing noise can be different between vehicles as some designs may vary a little. The most common is a roaring noise that may change when going around turns. It may be louder going in one direction or the other or just make a loud noise all of the time. The wheel hub presses into the wheel bearing. The hub is where the studs are for the wheel to be bolted onto the steering knuckle and the bearing provides the support for the wheel and weight of the vehicle. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at your wheel bearing noise to offer a more personal diagnosis.

My 2003 ford explorer wont start up just get click click click click click click click click
ANSWER : If the battery is weak and the voltage is dropping to below 9 volts you will get the clicking without the starter turning the motor. Have the battery voltage checked and if battery cannot hold a load then replace it and clean the battery terminals and recheck system to see if it starts.

Rattling noise from front driver tire after wheel bearing replacement
ANSWER : Hi there. On a front wheel drive vehicle, the only two items that could possible cause this, besides a wheel bearing that was not properly lubricated and installed during the replacement, would be a brake caliper that is dragging on the brake rotor or a CV axle or joint that is damaged. Really without completing a physical inspection or test drive, any ’guesses’ on our part would simply be an educated guess. It’s probably best to have a professional mechanic complete a test drive and try to diagnose this problem before making or suggesting any repairs.

What is driver side front versus passenger side front? Isn’t an axle replacement the whole axle connecting the two front wheels?
ANSWER : Hi there. Wheel location is determined by imagining you are sitting in the driver seat. Your, and most vehicles today, have 2 axles in the front; certain vehicle still have a solid rear axle housing, but retain 2 individual axles as well. It sounds like you may have bent the strut, lower control arm, ball joint, and/or hub when you hit the curb. I suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a suspension inspection.