I have a mini r53 s (supercharged) runs fine but when car stop and AC is on for a wile car overheat
Car is modified has new aluminum radiator and set of 2 fans, it has modified air intake and new coils and spark plugs, everything runs smooth but when car is stop for few minutes with AC on the cars start heating up, as soon car runs again car cools to normal temperature, AC don't cool down air so well.
Could it be frion gas?
Could it be frion gas?
My car has 100000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Your question makes me think of a case I ran into a few years ago. The owner had modified his car but when he installed his fans, one of them was wired backwards so the fan ran in reverse. The two fans were fighting each other which was just like having no fan at all, so the car heated up while it was sitting still then it cooled off when moving. Check the rotation of both the fans before you check anything else. If that’s OK, you may be able to track down the problem with a non-contact thermometer, follow the course of the coolant with the beam. The radiator should be about 30 degrees or more cooler at the exit than at the entrance. If you need help with this, contact Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home to check out your overheating problem and let you know what can be done for it.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Some of the most common issues that cause engine overheating, particularly in MINIs or BMWs are: low coolant levels (possibly due to engine leaks), radiator malfunction or failure, or water pump failure.
This happens when trapped dirt and debris build up and inhibit proper function. Improper Coolant Mixture – Your MINI requires a 50/50 water-to-coolant ratio. If that balance is off, or if you`ve used the wrong coolant for your vehicle, you risk overheating. Check with your local MINI technicians to be sure!
The most common reasons a Mini Cooper is overheating are a coolant leak (water pump, radiator, hose etc.), the radiator fan, or a failed thermostat. Coolant leak (water pump, radiator, hose etc.)
Leaks are the #1 reason a vehicle begins to overheat. Leaks in hoses, the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, heater core, head gasket, freeze plugs and a few other things can all lead to problems with the vehicle`s cooling system.
If you find that you`ve got a car running hot but not overheating there might be a few reasons: Clogged or damaged radiator. Low coolant level. Damaged water pump or thermostat.
A hot-running Mini could be due to could be radiator problems, such as corrosion in the radiator, lime scale in the housing, or other foreign pollutants clogging the system.
Reasons a Car Overheats
This is often due to a leak or blockage somewhere in the engine cooling system or other components. Other sources may be from a faulty or broken water pump or radiator fan, or from a clogged coolant hose. Further reasons could include: The cooling system is not working properly.
Your overheated engine may still be running, but it`s not fine. You risk costly damage to your engine if you keep driving.
If you notice that your engine overheats, the coolant temperature sensor could be the problem. At times, the coolant temperature switch may fail such that it starts transmitting hot signals permanently. This causes the computer to erroneously counterbalance the signal, thereby causing the engine to misfire or overheat.
While Mini Coopers are known to be high-quality vehicles, they have been known to experience coolant leaks. Some of the older models of MINIs are known to experience radiator and thermostat housing leaks, but the most common problem with a coolant leak in a Mini Cooper is a faulty water pump.
The normal engine operating temperature for a Mini Cooper can range between 195°F (90°C) and 220°F (105°C), depending on factors such as driving conditions and engine modifications.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I have a mini r53 s (supercharged) runs fine but when car stop and AC is on for a wile car overheat
ANSWER : Your question makes me think of a case I ran into a few years ago. The owner had modified his car but when he installed his fans, one of them was wired backwards so the fan ran in reverse. The two fans were fighting each other which was just like having no fan at all, so the car heated up while it was sitting still then it cooled off when moving. Check the rotation of both the fans before you check anything else. If that’s OK, you may be able to track down the problem with a non-contact thermometer, follow the course of the coolant with the beam. The radiator should be about 30 degrees or more cooler at the exit than at the entrance. If you need help with this, contact Your Mechanic. They can send a technician to your home to check out your overheating problem and let you know what can be done for it.
When i have my car running with my heat or ac on my car hesitates like it wants to stop when i’m stopped at a light.
ANSWER : As you may know, your car’s AC system when working properly puts an extra load on the engine at all times when it is running. When this happens, your car’s computer makes adjustments to compensate for this extra load on the engine. There is a component in your engine’s intake system called an idle air control valve that helps to control air intake as it is mixed with fuel during idle or low speeds. When this is dirty or not working properly (especially under load from additional power required for the AC), tis may cause incorrect adjustments to be made to the fuel mixture causing the hesitation you describe. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to take a look at your car to properly diagnose and repair your idle air control valve.
My car vibrates when I’m waiting at the light . It drives fine . And it vibrates more when I turn on the ac? Can itvtve motor moun
ANSWER : There are two principal possibilities: faulty motor/transaxle mounts, or an engine operating or mechanical condition including the possibility of a faulty harmonic balancer. To obtain a conclusive diagnostic, please simply request an engine vibration diagnostic and a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, will get this resolved. If you do need new motor/transaxle mounts, genuine OEM Nissan mounts are recommended in order to maximize the chances of resolving the problem. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Low coolant light comes on when AC, defrost or heater is on, but only if the car is in gear and stopped, what’s wrong with my car?
ANSWER : First, you want to make sure your cooling system is full. Check the radiator not the coolant jug. And check it when it is cold. If it needs coolant, add some. Of course, I don’t feel this problem is an actual low coolant condition. I would expect to find an electrical failure in the instrument cluster or from a component or wiring harness that is connected to the instrument cluster.
As a technician, I have access to reports from technicians across the country. I could not find any reports of this problem, so diagnosing this will require an experienced tech as this is not a common problem. In addition, this happens at intermittent times making it difficult to recreate. The most challenging part of this diagnosis will be recreating the symptom. I suspect it has something to do with the brake switch circuitry because it only seems to happen when you have your foot on the brake. I would begin my diagnosis there with a wiring diagram and test light in hand. The brake switch, instrument cluster, and environmental controls all interact with each other. Something is crossed either because of a failed module or damaged wiring in a harness.
Aside from making sure the coolant is full, this will not likely leave you on the side of the road. If you take it in to be diagnosed, be prepared for them to spend more time than usual to figure it out. Since it isn’t a key problem, you may need to live with it until it completely fails making it much easier to diagnose. Either way, I do recommend having a certified mechanic diagnose the warning light to make sure there isn’t anything serious going on.
Good luck.
when I turn my ac on my cars idle drop and stalls out and the ac is hot
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Although the pulley is still spinning, the compressor has likely failed. If it is not properly regulating pressure in the system, one of the first signs is a warm air conditioner. Considering yours is not cooling off, the pressures are not correct. If you believe the compressor is working correctly, you may want to check for a clogged line before replacing it. Keep in mind, a blocked line has likely put extra strain on the compressor, and may cause premature failure. For more help with testing or replacing the compressor, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
Power steering loss, no belts are turning but the car is running fine. I also have a soft pedal. Whats wrong with my car?
ANSWER : I have only seen this situation once in my 30+ years and it turned out to be a broken crankshaft pulley. Belts are driven by the engine. The crankshaft pulley spins the belts, which in turn spin the air conditioner compressor, power steering and water pumps, and the alternator. The vehicle should be towed to your local repair shop and not driven. Without the water pump spinning to circulate the coolant, the engine will quickly overheat and result in more extensive damage.
When I turn on my AC the radiator fans do not turn on. The fans do come on when the car warms up so I know they are working and the fuses are good. The AC compressor does come on and the air blows ice cold when the car is moving. Car is a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Sedan 2.7l v6.
ANSWER : The control circuit for the fans needs to be checked. For example, there is usually a condenser fan relay in the A/C electrical controls. There could be a fault with that relay and/or wiring problems, perhaps even just a loose connection, blown or loose fuse, and so forth. To resolve something like this, the recommended service is an electrical component diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic service, the responding certified mechanic will get the problem pinpointed and resolved. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car was clicking, then it stopped running and the battery and check engine lights came on.
ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like it may be a timing belt concern, but there are definitely other possibilities that may not be as involved as the timing belt. There could be an alternator concern, drive belt failing concern, or an electrical concern that is creating the concern. I suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a car does not start inspection or a car stalled inspection
