Engine crank, no coil spark, fuel pump does not kick in.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be multiple issues causing your lack of spark problem, ranging from a minor electrical short in the main relay to an issue with your ECU. In order to know for sure, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete an electrical problems inspection.

ANSWER : You need to look at the theft light on dash to make sure it comes on and goes off when you turn the key to the on position. If light comes on and stays on then your theft system is causing the fuel pump to not be engaged. I recommend you check the theft system and then scan the computer for theft system codes. You may need to reprogram the keys to work or you have an bad sensor for the ignition key in the steering column.

ANSWER : Hi there – the metal component you describe is a fuel check valve on the fuel return line. Its function is to maintain a small amount of pressure in the fuel system so that starting does not require the fuel pump to run very long before the engine will start. Having replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, I would check fuel pressure while the car is running. This is to check the fuel pump relay for burned contacts that won’t support full electrical current to the pump, and for proper fuel pressure – a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator could also restrict power and higher speeds if pressure is too low. I would recommend an inspection of the fuel system by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : With fuel issues such as these, there are a few things to consider first. If the fuel pump and all of that has already been replaced, then it is likely the issue is not with the fuel pump itself. The fuel system is controlled by the cars ECU and relies on the input from various sensors such as the oil sending unit and engine coolant temperature.

If any fault is found in the system, the ECU may not allow the fuel pump to run. The low voltage when cranking is a little strange, the most common cause of that would be that the battery is weak. If the battery is weak it may show 12 volts but will not have enough power to run any of the systems. A qualified technician will have little trouble diagnosing this battery fault firsthand and perform any repairs required to get your pump working again.

ANSWER : Hello,
You may want to try checking the fuel pump relay. The relay wires should have ground on two wires, power on one wire and switched power on another wire. To activate the fuel pump your ECU actually connects one of the ground wires to complete the circuit and send power to the fuel pump. If the wires all have power running through them, then it is likely you have a faulty relay. The wire coming from the fuel pump is the other ground wire. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose your wiring as this can be very difficult and time consuming without the proper wiring diagram.

ANSWER : Hello. If the vehicle began to experience these issues after going through a puddle then it may very well be possible that one of the components may have shorted or malfunctioned due to moisture. First off, keep in mind that the fuel and ignition systems function independently of each other, which means that there may be more than one issue that is cutting off power to each of them.

If there is no spark or fuel, then the first thing I would do is check the vehicle’s fuses and relays, particularly the EFI main and ignition relays. It may be possible that one of these components has failed and is cutting off power to the vehicle’s ignition and fuel systems. If these check out, then it may be possible that the issue is wiring-related, in which case I would carefully examine the engine bay for any worn, frayed, or otherwise potentially faulty wiring. A certified technician from YourMechanic, can come to your car’s location to inspect the car’s starting problem and pinpoint the repairs needed to have this resolved.

ANSWER : Hi there. Check the injectors harness with the key on and the engine off without trying to crank. There should be a voltage on one side of the harness supplying fuel to the injectors. Then crank the engine and back probe the wires to see if there is power on the other terminal on the harness. If there is no power, then the injectors are not compressing down and causing the system to not complete the circuit. If there is a voltage, then the injectors may be plugged up not allowing the fuel to spray out. I recommend replacing the injectors if you are unable to clean them out with injection cleaner. If you need further assistance with you engine not starting, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.