Car cutting off while driving

I have a few parts that I think need replacing: the water pump and front strut mounts. In addition I need the air conditioner and throttle body serviced. The car cuts off while I am driving.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Multiple issues here. The strut mounts require special tools which are not an on-site repair. The water pump requires timing belt replacement as well (which is intensive). The air conditioner also requires special tools where the repairs may require a lot of work. The idle/cut-off problem requires diagnosis which may range from a simple vacuum leak to a more severe issue. 2000 model Volvos are not simple to diagnose. However, a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic can assist you in diagnosis and repair.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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Stalling problems unexpectedly while driving: Stalls like this are often ignition-related and happen when the engine loses spark. The underlying cause is often a bad crankshaft position sensor, or sometimes a failing ignition coil (if the engine has only one coil).
Common reasons for this to happen:

Defective fuel pump or filter: Since the fuel pump is responsible for supplying your vehicle with fuel, it can cause a loss of power when it begins to wear out or when the in-tank filter becomes clogged and prevents the free flow of fuel.

There are three major causes for a stalled engine: A lack of fuel, a lack of air flow and improper ignition. Running out of fuel is one of the most common causes of engine stalling, but dirty fuel injectors or a plugged fuel filter can also be the culprit. Your engine needs air to run properly as well.
If your vehicle keeps stalling while you`re driving, it could be a problem with your fuel pump, ignition coil, or mass airflow sensor. On the other hand, if it keeps stalling while you`re stopped, it could be a problem with your camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, air readings, fuel pump, or fuel filter.
This is a common symptom of a plug or wire electrical current problem. Air or Vacuum Hose – Another common cause for engine vibration and power loss is when air or vacuum hoses come loose, begin to leak, or rupture. The three necessities for all combustion engines are air, fuel, and spark.
The most common problem across many Volvo models is transmission issues, but watch out for software issues and oil leaks.
Some of the most common sensors that lead to engine stalling include the mass airflow sensor (MAF), engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) and manifold absolute pressure sesnsor (MAP). The idle air control valve (IAC) and exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR) are also well known for causing engine stalling.
Stalling most often occurs because of a problem with the air to fuel ratio inside of the vehicle`s engine. Leaky air intake tubes, a dirty air filter, or various other airflow issues can potentially disrupt the air to fuel ratio and cause the vehicle`s engine to stall.

When your transmission doesn`t have enough fluid, you may experience it stalling at red lights or stop signs. Though it should start right back up, taking your car to an auto shop for repair is key as your transmission lines may be leaking and may need to be replaced.

A clogged fuel or air filter can make your engine sputter and your acceleration lag because the engine is not getting enough fuel or air, respectively. The combustion chamber needs the correct amount of air and fuel in order to generate combustion efficiently.
Quick Answer: Avoid 2001, 2003, and 2004 Volvo XC70s

Luckily, if you are looking to buy a pre-owned XC70, you can easily avoid the worst model years since more than half of the complaints were filed about the 2001, 2003, and 2004 model years.

Overall, the two car brands have very different reputations. Volvo is renowned for safety and reliability, while BMW is favoured by those who enjoy powerful engines and high performance vehicles.
The signal from the coolant temperature sensor tells the engine`s computer when to apply extra gasoline during a cold start. A faulty sensor can confuse the computer, keeping it from providing enough fuel. As a result, the engine may hesitate or stall.
Your car could shut off.

Some cars have a safety system in place to automatically shut the engine off before it suffers significant damage — which can happen due to low coolant.

Bad solenoid may be causing vehicle to stall.
If the engine stalls while idling or driving, the engine may be running out of fuel or not receiving enough fuel pressure to keep it running. The most likely cause of this kind of stalling would be a fuel pump that is not spinning fast enough or is intermittently cutting out.
A broken water pump is a serious problem, that can cause overheating and serious engine damage, but will rarely ever affect the vehicle`s starting ability.
Without a correctly running water pump, your engine will overheat in the summer or freeze in the winter. This can not only cause damage to the gaskets, cylinder heads and pistons, it often results in total engine failure.
Faulty spark plugs can cause the car to exhibit starting troubles. Worn out plugs does not produce sufficient sparks, which is needed for starting the engine. This results in the engine to stall and fail to start quickly.
In most cases, this will occur due to an obstruction of fuel or the inability to correctly mix the right ratio of fuel to oxygen. This could be due to dirty or clogged fuel injectors, throttle body or a mass air flow senor or idle control valve that is faulty or needs to be cleaned.
Transmission fluid will become foamy if there is too much fluid. Excessive fluid prohibits proper lubrication and cooling and slows the rotating crankshaft, similar to the effect of running through water.
Your Vehicle is Stalling and Sputtering

Rough running can also happen as a result of a faulty fuel pressure regulator. There are some cases where you will not be able to start the engine at all.

Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage
ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.

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The car shakes and randomly cuts off while driving. The car has steam/smoke coming from under hood.
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If your engine light came on for the secondary air pump sensor, then it is possible that the secondary air pump (smog pump) has failed. The pump has oil in it and if the pump seized up, the case may have broke and leaked out the oil or burned the oil causing the smoke. Also, there could be a coolant leak causing the smoke under the hood. If the pump is not working, then I suggest replacing the air pump. If you need further assistance with the engine having a lack of power, shaking, and crating smoke under the hood, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you solve this issue.

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Whilst driving the car will cut out. In the begining it would start immediatetly now if it cuts out it doesnt want to start
ANSWER : Hello. I would need to know the model of your Toyota to be able to give you the best information. From what you are telling me though it sounds like the crank sensor harness may be damaged or that one of the main grounds may not have been properly installed when the transmission was put back in. Both of these will cause this to occur.

I usually install a scan tool and watch the crank signal to see if it changes when the stalling occurs. If it does then either the sensor or the harness has a problem. If the reading is fine then the grounds need to be checked for a loose connections.

If you need to have this repaired, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your starting issue firsthand and repair this.

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Car not speeding up smoothly, service engine light on when first start driving and car vibrating
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor. The problem this can cause may also be compounded when the engine is cold due to the change in air density in cooler weather. The mass air flow sensor monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. This sensor relays information about fuel and air temperature, air speed entering the motor and many other things to the ECM which uses this to make adjustments to fuel supply to the motor. A dirty or faulty sensor can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This type of inconsistent fuel supply to the motor may cause a hesitation, loss of power, a jerking reaction, potentially a bit of black exhaust smoke and typically a strong smell of fuel when this sensor is malfunctioning. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

Read Full Q/A … : Car cutting off while driving

car surges when idle or in park. rpm bounce. car has cut off, but cuts back on.
ANSWER : It sounds like your idle air control valve could be failing. The idle air control valve is responsible for maintaining the proper amount of air into the intake while the vehicle is slowing down to a stop and resuming idle speed. When this valve fails, it can cause the exact symptoms that you described. I would recommend having the idle air control valve inspected by a qualified professional to determine if it is performing properly. If the IAC valve has failed, I would recommend having it replaced at your earliest opportunity.

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My car will only shift into reverse and neutral, can’t get it into the drive gear
ANSWER : This may be a result of low transmission fluid or potentially a faulty transmission control module. A faulty transmission control module may cause a delay in acceleration or erratic shifting of gears. The transmission control module has various sensors such as vehicle speed sensors, wheel speed sensors, throttle position sensors, turbine speed sensor, and transmission fluid temperature sensors that all direct information to it in order for it to perform it’s function. Other functions controlled by the TCM are components such as a kick down switch, traction control system, and cruise control module. Any of these may also affect the way the transmission control module performs and controls the transmission and the shifting of your vehicle. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your location to properly diagnose your transmission problem.

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My car keeps cutting off and jerking when i try to drive it and when i push on the gas the car moves slow make a noise and cut off
ANSWER : Your vehicle sounds like it is starving for fuel. If the fuel pump is going bad it may make noise. The lack of power may be due to a loss of fuel pressure, mass air flow sensor problem, or one of the computer sensors like the camshaft or crankshaft sensor is malfunctioning.

I recommend having the fuel pressure checked and getting the computer scanned for codes to the sensors. These checks will help pinpoint the problem. If decide to get this fixed, consider YourMechanic, as a certified technician can help you diagnose your stalling issue and driving symptoms. An accurate repair can then be made once the problem has been pinpointed. Goo luck.

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Car died while driving so I replaced the alternator and battery and car won’t attempt to turn over. What else could it be?
ANSWER : The initial failure was likely caused by a sudden fuel system (e.g., failed fuel pump) or electrical (including ignition) faiure. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the starter motor is not functioning, check for power to the starter motor when the key is held in the "start" position. If there a large voltage drop at the starter motor or no power at all, you may have a faulty ignition switch but you do have to check out the entire starter circuit, which includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. On the other hand, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

Read Full Q/A … : Car cutting off while driving