Car died while driving so I replaced the alternator and battery and car won’t attempt to turn over. What else could it be?
I was driving and went to pass another car. I was going approximately 60 mph. The lights on the dash flickered, the car revved up then died. It would act like it wanted to turn over but wouldn't start. A guy stopped, we jumped the car and it started but then died right after. I installed a new alternator and battery. Now the car won't even attempt to turn over. I am thinking now maybe the starter or solenoid but wouldn't think that would cause the car to die while driving it. Any other ideas?
My car has 198000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The initial failure was likely caused by a sudden fuel system (e.g., failed fuel pump) or electrical (including ignition) faiure. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the starter motor is not functioning, check for power to the starter motor when the key is held in the "start" position. If there a large voltage drop at the starter motor or no power at all, you may have a faulty ignition switch but you do have to check out the entire starter circuit, which includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. On the other hand, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
If you`ve replaced your battery but the engine still won`t start, it could actually be an engine problem. A seized engine won`t turn over, and that often resembles a bad starter or dead battery. If you suspect that your problem stems from an engine issue, it could take hours to diagnose and repair.
A failing fuel pump is one of the faults that can cause this. Other likely problems would be the battery, alternator, battery cable, wiring harness fault, crank or camshaft position sensor. The fuel pump may have been replaced because it was not turning on.
The alternator helps to manage the supply of electricity by recharging the battery. When there is a bad alternator, your car will shut off while driving. This primarily happens as it affects the power supply. Alternator issues will make the engine lose power.
The most likely issue is that a component is clogged. A clogged fuel filter is the most common reason, although a loss of power in your car could also indicate problems with the fuel pump or fuel line. Impurities or debris may be blocking the system, which causes the loss of power in a car.
This may seem obvious, but if you have a good battery, spark plug, and alternator, check if you have enough fuel in your car. The lack of fuel in the gas tank is a very common reason a car won`t start.
Bad Sensors
One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.
Cars shouldn`t shut off while driving, but when they do, the most common culprits are: A bad crankshaft position sensor. Other sensor issues in the engine. A faulty fuel system.
If a faulty alternator fails to keep your battery consistently charged, the fuel injectors may not fire, causing your engine to stall. A dying alternator can lead to a wide range of other electrical issues. Generally speaking, such issues manifest as an inability to perform at normal power.
Put simply, your alternator keeps your car battery charged, allowing you to turn on your car and use electronic accessories such as your headlights and radio. If you`re experiencing car alternator problems, you may find that your car won`t start or stay on for more than a few minutes.
If the engine starts but dies immediately, your alternator probably isn`t keeping your battery charged. If a jump starts and keeps your car running, but the car can`t start again off of its own power, a dead battery is probably your answer.
Other potential culprits might include a defective fuel injector, faulty spark plugs, a bad starter, starter relay or solenoid, a defective fuel pump, a problem with the timing belt or a clogged fuel filter. The problem could even be in the ignition switch on the steering column.
The Likely Culprit: Starter
If you`re unable to start your vehicle, check and see if the headlights and dash lights come on. If they shine bright and clear, that means that the battery and alternator are likely not the cause of the problem. If they were, there wouldn`t be enough power to run the lights.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Car died while driving so I replaced the alternator and battery and car won’t attempt to turn over. What else could it be?
ANSWER : The initial failure was likely caused by a sudden fuel system (e.g., failed fuel pump) or electrical (including ignition) faiure. Prior to performing diagnostics be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Then, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. If the starter motor is not functioning, check for power to the starter motor when the key is held in the "start" position. If there a large voltage drop at the starter motor or no power at all, you may have a faulty ignition switch but you do have to check out the entire starter circuit, which includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. On the other hand, if the starter motor is getting power but the starter doesn’t work, then the starter is condemned and replaced. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.
As I’m driving, all my lights inside/out of the car turn off and the car still stays on. But when I turn the car off it won’t turn over
ANSWER : Hello there. The charging system on the car may not be charging the battery as you drive and the systems that keep the engine running are priority so the engine will stay running until the voltage drops below about 9 volts but the lighting and some other accessories may cut off above this voltage first. You should have the charging system tested to see if the alternator needs to be replaced.
I just replaced the battery in my car and as I was driving I stacted to lose power and the car died it cranks but won’t start
ANSWER : The new battery that you bought should be fully re-charged. Confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated thus preventing the car from starting. Check for the characteristic, but momentary, whirring sound from the in-tank fuel pump at key "on" (this is not a conclusive fuel system test but just gives a quick indication of whether the in-tank fuel pump is dead or not). If the starter motor is turning the engine over rapidly, at sufficient RPM, but the engine does not catch and run, that means that there is an ignition, fuel or air induction fault in the engine that will have to be repaired. To obtain a diagnose and repair of the fault, the service to request is a no start diagnostic. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.
Battery dies if the car sat for over 20 hours
ANSWER : Batteries that drain overnight are common. Usually when this occurs, there is a parasitic drain on one of the car’s systems. When this occurs it drains the battery down over time. Batteries that are drained down repeatedly can cause them to fail. The most common causes of the battery drain are aftermarket accessories, radio, power windows and seat motors. If you can find the cause of the parasitic drain, a certified mobile technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose your battery and determine what should be done.
Replaced alternator on car 2 times each time shows it’s charging 14v let car run for a little bit then test drive and car voltage
ANSWER : There are reports that the replacement alternators will not communicate with the engine computer and will not charge correctly. I recommend using only the manufacturer approved replacement part. It can be new or remanufactured but approved for use in the vehicle. Some lower cost alternators on the aftermarket will have charging problems since they will not communicate with the ECM on the vehicle and will stop charging.
Just put a new carburetor, battery, starter relay, alternator, car stalls out while driving and battery dies when restarted
ANSWER : The battery should be load tested. Simply charging the battery or measuring voltage is not adequate. Measure charging output, too. You want to confirm that the ignition system, including for instance the ignition coil and ignition switch, are not intermittently cutting out. Coils can fail as temperature rises (resistance increases with temperature) so if you run the car for a while and all of a sudden it quits, measure the resistance of the coil windings to see if that provides a clue. Apart from that, the ENTIRE primary side ignition circuit has to be checked, using voltage drop testing (and testing of the hall effect sensor in the distributor), to rule the primary side in or out. If you want the required diagnostic steps performed by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a stalling diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
my battery kept draining until i bought a new alternator and battery. i have tightened the belt on the alternator but it still die
ANSWER : Hi there. The best way to diagnose why a battery would constantly drain is to review it’s job and how it is recharged. The battery is responsible for powering all electrical systems until the vehicle is started. At this point, the alternator takes over and also continually charges the battery while the vehicle is in use. A battery will drain when one of two things occurs. First, a battery will drain if it is constantly in use; supplying power to an electrical component even if the key is not in the ignition. Second, the battery will eventually die if the battery is not being charged frequently. However, since this is happening every two days, my initial thought would be that some electrical component on your 86 Olds is continuing to draw power from the battery. This is known as a parasitic drain. The best way to determine the source of this battery issue is to have one of our professional mobile mechanics come to your location and complete a battery will not hold a charge inspection.
Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.
If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
