What could cause fuse to keep blowing from fuel pump

ANSWER : You need to look at the theft light on dash to make sure it comes on and goes off when you turn the key to the on position. If light comes on and stays on then your theft system is causing the fuel pump to not be engaged. I recommend you check the theft system and then scan the computer for theft system codes. You may need to reprogram the keys to work or you have an bad sensor for the ignition key in the steering column.

ANSWER : Fuses are over current protection devices which means that you either have a short to ground (possibly intermittent) somewhere in the circuit or enough added resistance in the circuit that the current drawn by the pump is enough to blow the fuse. You can use a volt ohmmeter to measure the current draw of the pump and see if it is within factory specified limits.

If you have a wiring problem, you can re-do (bypass) as much of the existing wiring as possible (i.e., re-wire the fuel pump circuit) because otherwise you will have to laboriously go over the entire circuit until you find the wiring fault.

You should also check to see whether the fuel pump is only device on the fused circuit. If not, check the other loads on the fuel pump circuit as those other loads could be causing the problem (the overload). To check that refer to wiring diagram in Factory Service Manual.

There is also the possibility of a physical (mechanical) restriction in the fuel pump tubing, filter and/or pick up causing the motor to overload and draw more current than intended. That’s why you should measure the actual current draw of the pump in normal operation to rule that out.

If you’re unable to perform these checks yourself, have a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, come to you and diagnose the electrical problem firsthand for an accurate repair.

ANSWER : There are quite a few reports of PCM (Powertrain Control Module, AKA computer) failures causing your problem, but before you go replacing the PCM, do some more pinpoint tests. This may require you to find a wiring diagram of all the wires coming from the PCM.

The first thing I would do is to connect a scanner to the car and see if you can communicate with the PCM. As a technician, I have access to communities of technicians where repeat failures are reported. In these reports, it is most common when the PCM fails in this fashion, that you will not have PCM communication. If you do have communication and the Check Engine Light turns on with the key on, I would be leaning away from the PCM being the problem.

However, this is by no means conclusive. You could be correct in your thoughts about a wiring problem mid vehicle. On most GM vehicles, there is a connector along the frame rail for the wiring harness that services the fuel module in the tank. This has problems with corrosion because it sits under the vehicle exposed to the elements. But why am I doubtful of this, and this will require you to confirm where the power starts and stops, is you stated you didn’t have power from the fuse box. This would be before this connector and the fuel pump. If this is the case, I wouldn’t be thinking of a wiring problem mid vehicle anymore.

I am wondering if you confirmed the fuse box was getting power? It is a very common problem that when we move wiring we inadvertently move the damaged wiring and fix the problem for the short term. You may have done this when replacing the fuse box. Not to mention you seem to have an intermittent failure on your hands. This compounds the process quite a bit.

I’m not sure how you are confirming you have power at the various points, but I highly recommend a test light over a multi-meter. A test light draws current and a multi-meter does not. There can be voltage present but not a good enough connection to carry current. This is a very important distinction when you are battling bad connections. The problem with a test light though, is knowing when it shouldn’t be used. Some test lights draw too much current and can damage computer modules. Even us technicians perform tests on modules at our own risk.

The best way to test a relay is to simply use a jumper wire to bypass them. If I suspect there is a problem with the power supply to the fuel pump, this is the first thing I do. This way I can be sure it isn’t the relay or the PCM that turns the relay on. If the fuel pump does not run, use the before mentioned test light to find where the power stops. This requires you to methodically track the wire back to the fuel pump. I usually start at the central connector, if it has one. Not all of them do. I go directly to the pump if I can, but this is often not easy to access without dropping the fuel tank down. If you successfully confirm power to the pump, it maybe a bad ground, in which case the easiest way to confirm this is to add a ground yourself.

If this circuit checks out good, a few other things to check are power and ground to the PCM. Locate the wire from the PCM that powers the fuel pump relay. This can be done at the relay connector while you are testing the fuel pump circuit without the relay. When you turn the key on, on of the four terminals should receive power from the PCM for a few seconds. It will turn off after a couple of seconds if the PCM doesn’t see a signal that the motor is running. This is normal operation.

As for the air pump, I wouldn’t think this is an indication of the problem unless this occurred at the exact same time as the fuel pump failure. If so, I would suspect a wiring harness is shorting to ground somewhere. If they didn’t occur at the same time, this is most likely a separate issue.

The challenge you have here is isolating each part of the system. The PCM, the fuel pump relay, or a wiring issue. The PCM is actually fairly easy to check. Is the Check Engine Light on with key on and does it communicate with a scanner? Then follow the fuel pump relay test I outlined above. If it is a bad connection somewhere in the system, you will need a good wiring diagram and a well thought out plan to isolate where the problem is. This can be the most difficult to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent. Find a wiring diagram and study it carefully. If you’d like help, you can have a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect your car’s loss of power and make the correct repairs.

Good luck. I hope I have been of assistance.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be multiple issues causing your lack of spark problem, ranging from a minor electrical short in the main relay to an issue with your ECU. In order to know for sure, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete an electrical problems inspection.

ANSWER : For this, Silicone spray is one tool I personally like to use especially on rubber or silicone seals. The spray will leave a water-tight film on the electrical component and offers a moisture resistant coating. If you would like to have this checked, an expert, like one from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the electrical system in order to scope the problem out and pinpoint any problems.

ANSWER : Check fuel pressure. There are only three possible explanations: a fault in fuel supply (plugged filter, injectors, etc.); ignition system problems; and air induction including the idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor and vacuum leaks including the PCV and EGR systems. If obvious, and easy to check, possibilities do not reveal the fault, the recommended service to request is a rough running diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will travel right to your location and get this diagnosed and resolved for you. It is also possible that diagnostic trouble codes have set and the mechanic will attempt to retrieve those using an appropriate scan tool. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi there – the metal component you describe is a fuel check valve on the fuel return line. Its function is to maintain a small amount of pressure in the fuel system so that starting does not require the fuel pump to run very long before the engine will start. Having replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, I would check fuel pressure while the car is running. This is to check the fuel pump relay for burned contacts that won’t support full electrical current to the pump, and for proper fuel pressure – a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator could also restrict power and higher speeds if pressure is too low. I would recommend an inspection of the fuel system by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.