Problem with battery discharging over a couple of hours. Alternator getting hot while running very quickly.

just bought car a couple of days ago,ran fine washed it,cleaned engine,noticed when i stated it and let it run,tuned rear wiper on,and it wouldnt turn off.i pulled fuse for rear wiper and left it out.wife cleaned carpets and in that time battery went dead about 1.5 hrs.so i jumped it let it run,took it for about a 45 min, drive.shut it off, restarted just fine.next morning it was dead, this has happened 4 times,i noticed that alternator gets hot while running pretty quickly. i have a charger that checks the alt,and also the battery separately both came back good, there is a porcelain resister
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
This may be related to a voltage regulator malfunction. This is the resister on the passenger fender well that you are referring to. This is a device that monitors the charging system to be sure the battery is charged at the rate and voltage that it should be. When this is not functioning correctly, this will cause the battery to die intermittently which can also cause the alternator to work harder than normal as well. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic diagnose the charging system issue in person to verify the problem and proceed with the proper repair.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

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Probably, the most common symptom associated with a bad regulator is flickering, dimming, or pulsing lights. To be more specific, you may notice that the vehicle`s: Headlights fluctuate between bright and dim, without you doing anything. High beam isn`t working as expected.
Charging problems can be caused by electrical faults in the alternator or voltage regulator, poor wiring connections at the battery or alternator, or a slipping or broken drive belt. Since most late-model import alternators are internally regulated, a failure of the regulator means the alternator must also be replaced.
Symptoms of a burnt out diode:

The engine will begin to run rough, lack power and eventually stall and not start again. The battery warning light will turn on, warning you that there is a problem with your alternator charging system. The headlights will become dim due to reduced battery voltage.

There are many reasons your car`s battery might be dead, and one of them happens to be a broken voltage regulator. This is because when this part burns out, the battery will no longer charge, meaning it will eventually die.
In most cases, a set of sticking or worn alternator brushes, a broken field control wire, corroded battery cables or a bad connection at the alternator or battery will cause an intermittent low-state-of-charge problem.
1. Dead Battery. One of the most common problems that indicates a charging system problem is a dead battery.
While a car alternator usually lasts the car`s lifetime, it can deteriorate and malfunction under certain circumstances. Factors such as normal wear and tear, damaged parts, exposure to water or heat, and overuse can cause your alternator to stop working.
Despite their frequent use, alternators are usually relatively trouble-free, and when a problem occurs, it`s recommended to replace the alternator rather than repair it. The logic behind this is because a repair or rebuild can cost almost as much as a replacement alternator.
A corroded or defective alternator diode will faultily continue charging the circuit even when the car off. This, in turn, will drain your car battery and cause the car not to start.
Yep – The rectifier converts the AC output from the alternator into 12 volt DC needed to run the bike`s electrical systems and charge the battery. Dead rectifier = dead battery once the baterry has drained.
Without a voltage regulator, an alternator can produce up to 250 volts. This is enough to ruin the car`s battery and electrical system. The voltage regulator is normally located within or on the rear of the alternator housing. You might be able to drive with a defective voltage regulator for a while, but not for long.
If your vehicle has a failing battery, faulty alternator or bad wiring, it could stop working at any time.
If this warning lamp lights up while the engine is running, it means that there is a problem in the charging system, usually that the battery has gone bad or the alternator has stopped working. Sometimes if your car or truck won`t start, you have a bad battery, one that can`t hold a charge.
Battery malfunction is seldom caused by a factory defect; driving habits are the more common culprits. Heavy accessory power when driving short distance prevents a periodic fully saturated charge that is so important for the longevity of a lead acid battery.
Alternator overcharging is nearly always only fixed by swapping out the damaged alternator. Since an alternator`s voltage regulator is integrated within the alternator assembly itself, this entirely dispels any related worries and pinpoints the origin of the original overcharging complaint.
If your alternator isn`t working as it should, it won`t be able to charge up the battery. This means that the battery power levels will slowly decrease, and the battery will eventually die, leaving your car completely unresponsive.
First, avoid leaving the car stopped for a long time, i.e. for more than 20 days. As electronic devices are left on standby, they slowly consume the battery. Second, do not use the radio or other electronic devices with the car engine off.
Overheating

If the alternator is forced to overwork, either due to a failing battery, poor alignment or loose wiring, it can overheat. This is a serious problem that often causes malfunctioning of the alternator. Overheating can be discerned if you detect a burning smell coming from the alternator.

Extreme summer temperatures can be just the thing to push it over the edge with heat overload. Heat causes electrical components like alternators to work harder to produce the same output. If the alternator can`t keep the battery fully charged, the electrical system becomes compromised and can lead to failure.
On many vehicles the VTEC assembly is located directly above the dipstick and alternator. If the VTEC gasket has failed this is the source of your oil leak and alternator failure.
Overloading will ultimately result in its premature failure. Your electrical system performance may suffer, even though your alternator is working harder. Your battery life will be reduced. Any number of electrical problems may occur if this continues long enough.
But when someone mentions the “alternator fuse”, they`re generally referring to the primary, high-amperage fuse (or fusible link) between the alternator and the battery. Like any fuse, the primary alternator fuse acts as a circuit protection device.
While the size of your fuse depends on the amperage of your alternator, you should generally select a fuse that can handle more amperage than your alternator is able to output. For example, if your alternator outputs 200 amps, you should choose a fuse that`s no less than 200 amps.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Problem with battery discharging over a couple of hours. Alternator getting hot while running very quickly.
ANSWER : This may be related to a voltage regulator malfunction. This is the resister on the passenger fender well that you are referring to. This is a device that monitors the charging system to be sure the battery is charged at the rate and voltage that it should be. When this is not functioning correctly, this will cause the battery to die intermittently which can also cause the alternator to work harder than normal as well. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic diagnose the charging system issue in person to verify the problem and proceed with the proper repair.

is the ecm the problem if battery light is on and the alternator isn’t bad
ANSWER : This is likely a sign of a failing voltage regulator. This is a unit that regulates the charging of the battery by the alternator. In your case, it sounds like the voltage output from the alternator may be much too high resulting in overcharging the battery and burning up wires in the process. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and properly test your vehicle’s charging system.

I have Chrysler 300c. Battery light came on, changed battery and alternator but power still getting drained and battery light still comes on.
ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. This may be a sign of a failing starter relay. The starter relay is a small unit near the starter that directs power to the starter from the battery. When this fails, it may cause a clicking sound and will not allow the starter to engage the flywheel when you turn the key. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your home to diagnose your starting issue to determine the solution to get you back on the road.

New battery & fuel pump. Hours later car starts and shuts down 3X in a row. Finally it starts, 48 hours later, won’t start at all
ANSWER : Checking all the fuses was a good move. I would also want to put a scan tool on it and check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) as well as seeing the data that the computer is seeing.

A fuel pressure test would be a good idea to verify correct pressure and so that you’d be able to eliminate that possibility. It should be 58psi on your Magnum.

I also recommend getting your battery tested (I know, it’s new, have it tested anyway) and be sure it’s charged to at least 75%. And yes, loose battery cable connections can result in electrical problems.

If you need some assistance with this, consider enlisting a certified mechanic who can perform the checks I’ve mentioned and diagnose your starting issue firsthand. The mechanic can then perform the necessary repairs once the problem has been isolated. Good luck.

My car is running hot, what could be the problem?
ANSWER : There could be an issue with the cylinder head gaskets. Antifreeze can break down and become acidic if not replaced as normal maintenance. The head gasket material erodes and can cause engine compression to build up in the coolant system. This will prevent the flow of coolant which can create an overheating condition.

There is a test that can be done to check whether there is carbon monoxide in the coolant system; it involves special equipment.

I recommend having your overheating condition inspected, and perhaps have a block test performed.

I got a 1976 Chevy truck 350,it’s runs good when gets hot it the shuts off, when it cools it runs again, what could the problem be?
ANSWER : It sounds like what you are describing is a classic sign of a failing ignition coil that may be getting too hot to operate properly and is going through a heat cycling phase. Ignition coils are made of a varnish like material that will crack and become brittle over time, causing the internal wiring of the coil wire to become exposed. When the heat under the hood rises during engine operation, this causes the exposure of the wiring to become more pronounced which results in the coil shorting and becoming inoperable. When the heat under the hood cools down and the ignition coil cools off, they begin to work again. This type of heat cycling will usually continue until the coil ultimately fails completely. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to take a look at your ignition system and test your ignition coils to determine what my be causing this.

Battery gets drained, recharging the battery
ANSWER : Hello, the best thing to do in your case is to install a battery shut off switch. However, you are indicating that your battery is perhaps not accessible enough for such a retrofit. And, of course, if you disconnect the battery you lose anti-theft (alarm) protection as well as the possibility of losing stored info in the PCM.

Generally, the issue with charging in situ is if the charger has a voltage excursion (above 14 volts) which, if it occurred, could damage the PCM and vehicle electronics. Just to be on the safe side, Jaguar simply just says to disconnect the battery. If you are using a high quality professional charger, you are probably safe in leaving the battery connected while charging.

The charging circuit is running through the battery and the likelihood of runaway voltage if you are using a decent charger is low. Note that, even if you use a shut off, lead acid batteries will self discharge anyway, so you will still have to charge the battery every several weeks if you are not using the car. Watch out for gas in the tank oxidizing. Keep the tank full and use fuel stabilizer applied to fresh gas. If the gas goes bad and plugs injectors, you will wish you had "only" a dead battery. If you are continuing to have problems with your battery, a qualified professional from YourMechanic can diagnose the charging issue so that you will not have to keep charging it.

installed new alternator and battery the alternator is charging the battery and the battery is maintaining afull charge but the ba
ANSWER : Hello. If the battery and the alternator are new and if it is verified that the alternator is charging then you have an issue with programming. When you replace the battery on this vehicle the computer needs to be reprogrammed to recognize it and to properly charge it. If this is not done then the computer will not turn on the alternator at the correct times an this battery light will come on. You need to have this programming done by a certified mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, who can come to you to [program the battery into the computer] https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/battery-light-is-on-inspection