power booster brake problem

ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.

ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle is likely having an issue with the booster, or more likely an issue with the linkage. There will be a rod from the pedal which controls manifold pressure inside of the booster. On the other side of this rod is a valve. It is either this valve or the rod which has failed. If the rod is having an issue, try to adjust it first before replacing it. The valve will likely need to be replaced, but more inspection will need to be done. For more diagnostic help, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : Hi there. The first thing that pops in my mind beyond of what you have listed is perhaps the electrical harness attached to the brake switch. Perhaps the harness itself is damaged or you have an exposed wire, loose ground wire somewhere. You might want to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a brake lights not working inspection to help you diagnose this issue.

ANSWER : The check valve is built into the hose that connects to the brake booster. The hose should be disconnected from the booster connection when removing the master cylinder. If you apply vacuum to the hose after you remove it from the booster, you should be able to hold vacuum on the line indicating check valve is good. If it will not hold vacuum, then you will need to replace the line assembly with check valve built into it. If you need help with this repair, YourMechanic offers a repair and diagnosis service preformed by a certified mechanic that will commute to your location to help you replace your brake booster vacuum pump.

ANSWER : I think you need to take a look at the brake pads to make sure they did not get put in backwards. If you are getting grinding noise and the ABS is kicking in then you may have put one of the brake pads in wrong or the caliper brake pad slides came loose when installing them.

I suggest you do not drive it until you find the cause so you do not damage the rotors. Look at each brake pad to make sure the metal backing is not facing the rotor on the inside or outside pads.

Then check the caliper slides to make sure they are not hitting the rotors. Lastly, you should check the system again for any air in the system. You may have to have the ABS system checked if the problem continues. If you cannot find and fix the problem then I recommend calling a certified mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, to inspect your brake system and help you repair this problem.

ANSWER : Hi there. When removing the brake booster from a vehicle, you will need to remove the master cylinder and cap off the hydraulic lines. Then go in the cab and remove the pin from the bell crank and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the booster on. Then remove the booster. Do the opposite to install the booster. If the bell crank pin had a cotter pin to secure it, make sure that you use a new cotter pin. If you need further assistance with removing and installing a brake booster in your vehicle, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.