just replaced front and back calipers power booster bled all brake lines and when you put the brake on and coming to a slow stop i
When I put the brakes on and coming to a slow stop the brakes sounds like the ABS brakes are kicking in lots of grinding noise just put brand new calipers all around and power booster could the problem be the master cylinder
My car has 180000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
I think you need to take a look at the brake pads to make sure they did not get put in backwards. If you are getting grinding noise and the ABS is kicking in then you may have put one of the brake pads in wrong or the caliper brake pad slides came loose when installing them.
I suggest you do not drive it until you find the cause so you do not damage the rotors. Look at each brake pad to make sure the metal backing is not facing the rotor on the inside or outside pads.
Then check the caliper slides to make sure they are not hitting the rotors. Lastly, you should check the system again for any air in the system. You may have to have the ABS system checked if the problem continues. If you cannot find and fix the problem then I recommend calling a certified mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, to inspect your brake system and help you repair this problem.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
How To Fix A Breaking Caliper Not Releasing. You can fix this issue by cleaning the piston in the calipers with a brake cleaner and a rag and ensuring nothing is blocking the piston from moving freely. Another way is to check the caliper guide pins for corrosion. If they are corroded, you need to have them replaced.
How do you release the pressure on a brake caliper piston? If the caliper has pressure on it that is preventing the piston from going back in just open the bleeder screw and that will release the pressure.
A problem with the brake master cylinder will cause the brake pedal to behave abnormally. All the pressure in the braking system is generated from the master cylinder. If it malfunctions, the cylinder will not distribute pressure properly, and the pedal will be affected.
If you`re having difficulty resetting the position of your caliper pistons it is probably because your brake has been filled with too much brake fluid. The brake system can become over-filled if a brake bleed is performed without resetting the pistons.
WD-40 Specialist Automotive Brake and Parts Cleaner is safe to use on clutch and brake assemblies, brake discs, callipers, brake drums, brake pads and brake linings.
Because there are air bubbles in the circuit
Another reason why the brake caliper sticks is that for some reason air is introduced into the hydraulic system, it will be possible to brake because the air can be compressed. However, when the brake pedal is released, the piston will not return to its rest position.
Typical brake line pressures during a stop range from less than 800psi under “normal” conditions, to as much as 2000psi in a maximum effort. 3) Clamping force: The clamping force of a caliper is the force exerted on the disc by the caliper pistons.
In the Car: With the brake system bled, pump the brakes a few times and hold. The brake pedal should be firm. If the brake pedal is spongy, this could indicate air remaining in the lines or a mechanical problem, such as a sticking brake caliper slider.
All you have to do is put a flat-bladed screwdriver between the brake pads and twist. As a result, the brake pads will disengage, pushing the pistons back into their reset position.
Over time, a caliper may come out of alignment. If the issue grows severe enough, one of the brake pads may remain in contact with the rotor surface at all times. Numerous factors may play into caliper misalignment. The problem often occurs as the result of a collision.
installing CQuartz DLUX. DLUX is designed specifically. to repel brake dust, tar, and other common.
Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Brake Grease can also be used to dampen vibrations between disc brake pads and caliper pistons. It should NOT be applied between the pads and any noise suppression shims. Use it sparingly on the back of a bare pad or between the pad shim and caliper.
Air in the brake line(s) is the most common cause of a soft/spongy brake pedal. If air gets into the brake lines, it can prevent brake fluid from flowing properly, causing the brake pedal to feel spongy or soft. If the brakes are soft or spongy, this is a good time to change or flush the brake fluid.
Why is my brand new caliper sticking? If the caliper you replaced wasn`t sticking and the new one is, your new (rebuilt) caliper is bad. But if you replaced the original caliper for sticking and the new one acts the same way, then the flexible rubber brake hose on that spindle is the problem.
If the caliper or caliper pistons become stuck, it is unable to properly squeeze the brake pads against the rotors, which may cause you to feel some vibrations when you hit the brakes. Calipers may also get stuck while engaged, which won`t allow the brake pad to let off the rotor.
Metering Valve
Combination valves are available for both disc-disc and disc-drum brake systems. The disc-drum version contains a metering valve which functions to hold off line pressure on the front brakes until the rear brakes kick in. This is important to prevent nose dives.
(It is also called the foot valve or treadle valve.) Pushing the pedal down harder applies more air pressure. Letting up on the brake pedal reduces the air pressure and releases the brakes.
One cause for a stuck caliper is if the brake pad shims get caught, or debris builds up in between the spaces. If this happens, the pads will not be able to slide in and out correctly, causing the caliper to stick. A mechanic will be able to clean the brake pad shims, or replace the brake pads with new ones if needed.
One cause for a stuck caliper is if the brake pad shims get caught, or debris builds up in between the spaces. If this happens, the pads will not be able to slide in and out correctly, causing the caliper to stick. A mechanic will be able to clean the brake pad shims, or replace the brake pads with new ones if needed.
Thankfully often a simple c-clamp will get you going. Another way to remove the caliper piston is to use the brake system`s hydraulic pressure. Just remove the caliper from the disc and pump the brake pedal to move the piston past the corroded area.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
just replaced front and back calipers power booster bled all brake lines and when you put the brake on and coming to a slow stop i
ANSWER : I think you need to take a look at the brake pads to make sure they did not get put in backwards. If you are getting grinding noise and the ABS is kicking in then you may have put one of the brake pads in wrong or the caliper brake pad slides came loose when installing them.
I suggest you do not drive it until you find the cause so you do not damage the rotors. Look at each brake pad to make sure the metal backing is not facing the rotor on the inside or outside pads.
Then check the caliper slides to make sure they are not hitting the rotors. Lastly, you should check the system again for any air in the system. You may have to have the ABS system checked if the problem continues. If you cannot find and fix the problem then I recommend calling a certified mechanic, like one from YourMechanic, to inspect your brake system and help you repair this problem.
Horrible grinding sound after recently replaced front and back brakes and rotors.
ANSWER : Hi there. Were there shims installed on the old pads? New shims on the new pads? Missing shims can create noise while braking which is why the antiseize worked for a short time. What brand/level of brake pads did your husband install? Usually, the lowest priced pads are the noisiest. The antisieze that he installed is not recommended to be put on brake components as the high temperatures of these parts can cause the lubricant to run and contaminate the pads and rotors. There are specifically designed brake pad shim lubricants designed to withstand these high temperatures; these are the only ones that should be used if needed. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts and a possible safety concern. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brakes are making a noise inspection.
When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.
Replaced calipers and brake shoes. Bled the brakes and loose clutch. Get clutch back and loose brake pressure. Why?
ANSWER : Hello. The symptoms you are describing are very unusual. The clutch and brake hydraulic systems on your vehicle are separate, and should function completely independently of each other. The brake master cylinder uses a completely different set of lines than the clutch master cylinder does. I would try carefully bleeding both systems once more, just to be sure that there is no air in either system.
If both are bled properly, I would then move on to making sure that none of the components of either system are leaking. Leaks at the master or slave cylinders, or at any of the calipers or wheel cylinders will cause the systems to lose pressure. If the problem persists, I would then consider the possibility of a defective master cylinder.
I had front brakes and rotors replaced and now my brakes are squeaking and grinding when I come to a stop. I just had front and b
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. A squealing noise typically happens because there is a vibration between the pad and the rotor. This is likely pertaining to the caliper that moves the brake pad back and forth. While they may not be damaged, broken, or faulty, they can become misaligned and cause a squeal. Often a shim can be done or an adjustment done to resolve the issue. You may also need to grease the guide pins that the calipers move along. For more help and a proper inspection, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
what could cause your brakes to not stop if you have new brake shoes, pads, and have bled the brake line to master cylinder?
ANSWER : Hi there. Typically when you experience braking issues as you’ve described shortly after replacing pads and rear shoes, the problem is typically caused by a brake caliper or master cylinder problem. However, it could also be due to an installation failure as well. When you put your pad on, you have to push back the brake calipers. When you pushed back the calipers, did you open the bleeder when you did? If you did not, all the fluid were pushed back toward the brake master cylinder and you have to pump up your brakes. When this is done, you should of only used short strokes on the brake pedal and not cycle it to the floor, up and down, until the pedal gets hard.
This may have caused the master cylinder to get a torn internal piston cup. A certified mechanic will have to flush out the master cylinder and brake system and if that does not fix it then the master cylinder will have to be replaced.
This may have caused the master cylinder to get a torn internal piston cup. A certified mechanic will have to flush out the master cylinder and brake system and if that does not fix it then the master cylinder will have to be replaced.
Replaced front brake pads on bad rotors, also replaced calipers from junkyard.
ANSWER : Hello. From what you describe it would appear that your rear brakes may have seized up. This can be caused by a few different reasons. If your brakes were grinding and you reused the same rotor it may be possible that the brakes are overheating due to excessively thin or worn rotors. Overheated brakes can result in brake fluid boiling, which can cause all sorts of pressure problems in the brake system. This is more likely if only the front brakes were bled when the system was opened up, and a possible cause for the swishing fluid sound you heard as the problems occurred. A careful disassembly and inspection of both the front and rear brakes could determine what the cause could be. I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to determine what the cause of the seized brakes may be](https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/brakes-steering-and-suspension-inspection).
