Popping noise, wheels won’t turn

ANSWER : For your 2001 Chrysler LHS, the inner tie rods are attached to the steering gear with a retaining bolt and a lock tab. If the bolts are not torqued enough and the lock tab engaged, the bolts can back out and fall off. Have the bolts replaced with new lock tabs. Make sure the new bolts are tightened to specified torque of 75 ft lbs. following technical bulletin 19-001-01. I would also recommend having all the steering components checked for damaged.

ANSWER : The steering lock may not be unlocking either due to a faulty ignition lock housing or more commonly as the cars age a faulty spring at the steering wheel on the under side of the column. If the ignition lock housing is the issue the housing can be replaced. It s a bit tricky as the mounting bolt has break off heads and generally need to be driven out with a punch. If the lock is not disengaging because of a faulty spring on the ignition lock many owners have had the spring removed by having it drilled out of the housing. However, removing the spring may permanently disable the steering lock. The last option would be to replace the steering column. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic who can recommend the proper repair for your situation.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, concerning your vehicle’s steering wheel is locked far right and key won’t turn with the front wheels in a forward default position, is somewhat confusing to me. It could be, undo pressure is being applied to the steering wheel lock. You could try, physically moving the left front tire side to side in either direction, to relieve the pressure on the steering wheel lock. It could be, the key you are using has a problem, try another key if available. It could be, the ignition lock cylinder is at fault. I recommend having your vehicle’s can’t turn the key be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : A possibility is a faulty ignition switch. If the switch opens after the car starts, the engine will shut off. But, that is just a possibility and a diagnostic would have to be performed to rule that in or out. Be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Starters motors can display intermittent operation if they are faulty. With a fully charged battery, if the starter motor does not run that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit (includes the ignition switch) or a problem with the starter motor itself. If there is power to the starter motor and yet it doesn’t run, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter, or there is a big voltage drop anywhere on the circuit to the starter, then the circuit has to be traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : The problem could be in the transfer case unit, but the device is mounted closer to the driver than the rear wheel so the noises or vibrations are generally a little more obvious. Especially during sharp turns the transfer case and rear end assemblies are working pretty hard with the wheels turning at different rates. I suggest hiring one of our mobile experts to diagnose the noise you’re hearing. Wheel bearings and worn out suspension components like sway bar links cause similar noises.

ANSWER : The problem to me sounds like you have worn out bushings that hold the power steering rack and pinion assembly. This is why your steering wheel gets off center in the direction of the turn. Have the steering inspected and the bushings replaced if they are bad. You should have no problems then.

ANSWER : Hi there. The symptoms you’re describing with your boyfriend’s 2002 Grand Cherokee appear to be related to a broken or worn out ignition switch or relay. The ignition switch on the inside of the steering column is attached to multiple electronic connections that send signals to a relay box; which in turn, sends the signal to the individual components. The issue could be related to the ignition switch, the relay, or any of the components in between. If you want to have the fault pinpointed in person, I would have this starting issue inspected by a trained professional to ensure that the correct repair is made.

ANSWER : Check to see if the fuse(s) in the windshield wiper and power window circuits are intact. If those fuse(s) have blown, there is probably some sort of short circuit. Even though the battery might run the lights, that doesn’t mean the battery is in good enough condition to run a starter motor which draws a large amount of current. Once full charged, the battery should definitely be load tested to be sure there is no issue there. Also, the terminal connections to the battery and the grounds should be cleaned and tightened. The loud buzzing sound could be a relay malfunction due to excessive voltage drop when you actuate the starter circuit. What I would suggest is diagnose the starter circuit and that malfunction may just resolve itself once the no start issue is resolved. To deal with the no start issue, be sure any engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated, thus preventing the car from starting. Broadly, either the starter motor/solenoid assembly is faulty or the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. Basically, with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but it doesn’t work, the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, with the key in the "start" position, if there is no power to the starter, then the starting circuit is traced until the fault in the circuit is found. In addition to a faulty ignition switch, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please recontact YourMechanic if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.