Very Loud Knocking noise from left rear wheel when turning left and braking

I have a 1999 Ford Explorer, I am almost positive that it is all wheel drive (I know it has 4-by capabilities but there is no control to turn on 4 wheel drive). About 8 months ago it started to make a quiet knocking noise from what sounds like the rear left wheel, but only when I was turning left sharply and at moderate speed. As time has gone on, the knocking has gotten much louder and more frequent. Now it does it anytime I turn left (sharp turns and wide turns) and it has started to do it when I'm braking too. If I'm going very slow, it won't make the noise but anytime I'm d
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The problem could be in the transfer case unit, but the device is mounted closer to the driver than the rear wheel so the noises or vibrations are generally a little more obvious. Especially during sharp turns the transfer case and rear end assemblies are working pretty hard with the wheels turning at different rates. I suggest hiring one of our mobile experts to diagnose the noise you’re hearing. Wheel bearings and worn out suspension components like sway bar links cause similar noises.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

A knocking or clicking sound may be due to the splines on the axle shafts being worn out, in which case the defective shaft has to be replaced. Another reason for this may be chipped teeth on one or more of the gears in the differential. Again, they`ll need to be replaced.
Bad Tires/Bad Left Tire – A knocking sound may be heard when tires go bad, if they are unbalanced or misaligned, or if there is a broken belt in one of the tires. Wheel Bearings – If a wheel bearing is severely worn out the wheel will not be able to spin freely. This may cause a knocking sound to be heard.
Your axle has a constant velocity joint built into it that maintains quickness of motion to the wheels when you turn your steering wheel. When CV joints wear out, they cause a thumping or knocking noise when you turn. The only good repair option is to replace the CV joint or axle assembly.
This symptom typically happens when you have a suspension issue, and occurs when driving over bumps, uneven surfaces, debris, potholes, and more. It could be that some suspension part is loose or broken. The suspension system is fairly complex, so finding the exact source of the noise can be tricky to do by yourself.
Rear Differential Noise vs Wheel Bearing Noise

As a bearing begins to wear, friction increases and metal material is worn down making often bad noises until it finally fails. Failing bearings can make whistle noise or a roaring grinding type of noise. Often the noise get louder as the cars speed or load increases.

When a wheel hub bearing wears out, it puts extra stress on the CV-joint. That can cause the knocking/clunking noise when you turn the vehicle.
Grinding Or Humming Noise: The humming or grinding noise can be from a bad wheel bearing or a worn tire. If the sound becomes worse and resembles a growling noise with increased vehicle speed, it`s almost certainly a bad wheel bearing.
If you`re driving down the road and you start to hear a clunking, rattling or metal-on-metal scratching noise, it is possibly the stabilizer bar links causing the sound. The stabilizer bar links are supposed to fit incredibly snugly, without any play or movement except between rubber bushings.
When a wheel hub bearing wears out, it puts extra stress on the CV-joint. That can cause the knocking/clunking noise when you turn the vehicle.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Very Loud Knocking noise from left rear wheel when turning left and braking
ANSWER : The problem could be in the transfer case unit, but the device is mounted closer to the driver than the rear wheel so the noises or vibrations are generally a little more obvious. Especially during sharp turns the transfer case and rear end assemblies are working pretty hard with the wheels turning at different rates. I suggest hiring one of our mobile experts to diagnose the noise you’re hearing. Wheel bearings and worn out suspension components like sway bar links cause similar noises.

steering wheel turned to the far right and locked in place while the wheel are straight. and I can’t turn the key.
ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, concerning your vehicle’s steering wheel is locked far right and key won’t turn with the front wheels in a forward default position, is somewhat confusing to me. It could be, undo pressure is being applied to the steering wheel lock. You could try, physically moving the left front tire side to side in either direction, to relieve the pressure on the steering wheel lock. It could be, the key you are using has a problem, try another key if available. It could be, the ignition lock cylinder is at fault. I recommend having your vehicle’s can’t turn the key be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

I own a 2000 f150 lariat 4 x4. 5.4 l. Started getting a loud grinding noise front passager brakes. Replaced brakes and wheel
ANSWER : Hi there. While using junkyard or used parts (especially brake or suspension parts) is highly discouraged and can cause major damage, it is unlikely that they caused the aluminum wheel to split in half. In most cases, this is caused by hitting a pothole or other obstruction in the road. A glancing blow against a blunt object like a curb can also cause this type of damage. However, if the brakes came apart or a brake component broke, it could in theory cause the same damage. My advice to you is to not drive the vehicle further until you’ve replaced the brakes and wheels with new components for safety.

Low brake pedal and anti-lock brakes are not kicking in.
ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

Rear left side running light above the left rear wheel turns on and off intermittently
ANSWER : Sometimes wiring problems may not be immediately obvious. If your light is coming on and off, intermittently then that may be an indication that there may be a wiring problem with that bulb or light’s circuit. I would recommend a thorough inspection of the bulb or light itself, the connector, and the wiring. You could have your light issue diagnosed by a knowledgable technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

Can front wheel drive car engine power rear wheel drive
ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.

Rattling noise from front left during left turns or while going over bumps.
ANSWER : Hi there. Base on the information you’ve provided this may be a result of the leveling kit installation. I would check the caliper on the left front and make sure the mounting bolts for the caliper and pads are proper tightened. Then check the installation of the shock to see if the nut is overtightened and squeezing the bushing flat; simply look a the top of the shock and see if the bushing is flat and allowing the metal washers to make contact. Also check the sway bar link for similar signs as noted for checking the shock. The last thing that I would suspect is a wheel bearing that may not have been properly tightened or may need to be torqued. YourMechanic has several technicians that can provide you with a proper suspension inspection for the noise and advise you further on repairs.

When I put my foot on the brake my back left brake light goes off, when I take it off the brake the brake light comes on
ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.