Pickup is running rough, jerking, stalling, and not idling over 3000 rpms
I have been having this problem for about 6 months and just did not have the money to have it looked into it all started after running out of gas one night I had fell asleep in the pickup with it running and I somewhere during the night it ran out of gas the next day it wouldn't idle over 3000 RPMs but wasn't cutting out real bad it just wouldn't accelerate quickly overtime and got worse begin stalling out and eventually was to the point where I couldn't drive it I change the fuel pump no improvement I read online that if I drilled one small hole in each catalytic converter tha
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hey there. This sounds like an air/fuel delivery problem which may be a result of a dirty or failing mass air flow sensor. This may also be a result of a failing O2 sensor which may also cause an incorrect adjustment to the air/fuel ratio causing the cutting out and over or under fueling the motor. This can also happen when the mass air flow sensor is not properly reading the air flow which causes an incorrect fuel adjustment to be made resulting in the same type of symptom. I would suggest having an expert, like one YourMechanic, come to your location to inspect the rough running issue and determine what may be causing this.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Engine hunting and surging at idle is usually caused by a fuel delivery, air leak, or governor system problem. Cleaning/overhauling the carburettor, adjustment of the governor, and/or changing the air filer may be required.
Along with faulty spark plugs, a build-up of dirt and grime is the likely cause of cars stuttering when idle. A clogged filter or fuel injection system can starve your engine of fuel or oxygen, causing your car to judder and shake.
This rotational speed allows the engine to generate enough power to operate vital components without turning off. The idle speed should feel consistent without skipping or slipping. In most of today`s cars, an idle speed of 600 to 1000 RPMs is average.
Other possible causes of a high idle include vacuum leaks, EGR system malfunctions, malfunctioning oxygen sensors, dirty fuel injectors, fuel pump malfunction, faulty spark plugs, a faulty mass airflow sensor, a malfunctioning throttle and, rarely, a PCM/ECM malfunction.
Replace the sensor with a compatible one and correctly install the crankshaft position sensor to ensure that the engine runs optimally and safely. A qualified technician can prevent further issues with RPM fluctuations while driving by installing the sensor correctly.
How to fix it? Cleaning or replacing the fuel filter and adding a fuel injector cleaning treatment to the fuel tank should take care of clogged fuel injectors. If the rough idle persists, it`s time to take your car to an auto repair shop.
A Transmission Fault
Shifting issues can sometimes cause your vehicle to feel like it is jerking when accelerating. If you have internal transmission damage, it can cause the gears to slip [and] engage over and over again, which feels like jerking when accelerating.
If the alternator is not charging the battery and not providing enough voltage into the system then you will get this jerking. If there is not enough power in the system, then the computer will have trouble shifting the transmission properly among other possible issues.
Oxygen (O2) sensor
An oxygen sensor monitors and analyzes the amount of oxygen in a vehicle`s exhaust system after combustion. A dirty, damaged or malfunctioning O2 sensor (or sensors) affects the air/fuel mixture, causing the engine to idle rough.
The most common causes of this on your vehicle are either a bad idle control valve, a dirty or failing throttle body, or a vacuum leak. It is very common for the engine to have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gasket.
If your car has high RPM while idling, it can be attributed to a problem with the idle control valve. This valve helps the car to maintain a specific RPM while idling. This idle control valve also has a fuse which if blown, will stop the valve from working altogether.
Here are some possible reasons your RPM is going up and down while driving: Worn-out spark plugs. Vacuum leaks. Bad idle air control valve.
If the alternator is dying and the battery isn`t fully charged you can expect all kinds of weird electrical problems to happen. The alternator output will fluctuate with changing RPM.
To check whether the idle air control valve is functioning properly, start the engine and let it run for about 10 to 15 minutes. If the valve is functioning correctly, the engine will sound good and the idle will be steady versus too high, too low, or inconsistent.
If an engine is not getting enough fuel (this is called “running lean”), due to fuel pressure (regulated by the fuel pump and regulator), restricted fuel injectors, a vacuum leak or really anything that throws off the fuel mixture going in to the engine, this can cause the surge.
While it may seem like a small problem on its own, rough idling is a sign that some part of your engine isn`t working properly. Over time, rough idling can result in poor gas mileage, starting issues and major engine problems.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Pickup is running rough, jerking, stalling, and not idling over 3000 rpms
ANSWER : Hey there. This sounds like an air/fuel delivery problem which may be a result of a dirty or failing mass air flow sensor. This may also be a result of a failing O2 sensor which may also cause an incorrect adjustment to the air/fuel ratio causing the cutting out and over or under fueling the motor. This can also happen when the mass air flow sensor is not properly reading the air flow which causes an incorrect fuel adjustment to be made resulting in the same type of symptom. I would suggest having an expert, like one YourMechanic, come to your location to inspect the rough running issue and determine what may be causing this.
01 mustang v6 running rough at idle and drive. Please help. Replaced a bunch, still can’t figure out issue.
ANSWER : This may be a sign of a faulty MAP sensor as the vehicle responds adversely to a load put on the motor (i.e. putting it in gear, turning on AC or engaging the brakes). The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor senses engine load and generates a signal that is proportional to the amount of vacuum in the intake manifold. The engine computer then uses this information to adjust ignition timing and fuel enrichment. When the engine is working hard, intake vacuum drops as the throttle opens wide. The engine takes in more air, which requires more fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio in balance. When the computer reads a heavy load signal from the MAP sensor, it adjusts the fuel mixture to slightly more rich than normal so the engine can produce more power. The computer will then retard (back off) ignition timing slightly to prevent detonation that can damage the engine and decrease performance. This may also be caused by other closely related components such as a dirty or failing mass air-flow sensor, a faulty throttle position sensor or potentially a vacuum leak. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
The truck intermittently, has a very rough idle, and runs rough,usually after warming up.
ANSWER : Hello. This can be caused by a number of different things. If this occurred right after you had gotten fuel then I would start by testing the fuel pressure. I would do this when the vehicle starts running poorly. It is possible that the bad fuel contaminated the fuel pump and it is not putting out the right pressure. If the fuel pressure is fine then I would check the other sensors readings with a scan tool. One other common thing that I have seen on this engine is a leaking intake manifold gasket. It starts leaking on the bottom side and that leak causes the MAF and MAP to not read correctly which causes it to run like this. If you would like to have this rough running condition looked at, consider having a YourMechanic certified techniciancan come to your home or office to diagnose why it is running rough.
My car runs rough at idle, stalls at idle, surges, and idles at 40 miles an hour
ANSWER : A number of components or faults can cause your issues. A vacuum leak can cause your issues. Depending on the vehicle, components such as the mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, coolant temperature sensor, and a number of others can be the cause. Since randomly replacing parts can get expensive as most electronic components are not returnable once installed, having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose the stalling/surging is the best place to start.
High Idle, stalls when a/c or defrost is turned on and dies completely after some rough idling. If turned back off car is fine.
ANSWER : Hi there. The fact you able to get the idle speed to drop by tapping the gas pedal, lead me to believe the high idle is due to a sticking accelerator cable. Another possibility could be, a faulty throttle body not allowing the throttle to return to the closed position. Proper diagnoses should be performed to avoid unnecessary repairs. I recommend having your vehicles high idle be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.
Rough idle, fluctuating rpms, stalling
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The vehicle is struggling to keep up with all of the different accessories when the engine is idling. This is typically due to an issue with the air intake, fuel intake, or the sensors that monitor and control them. Start by having the vehicle scanned for codes at your local automotive parts store, or by a different technician. If no codes are present, attempt to clean the throttle body, idle air control valve, and the throttle position sensor. If there are codes present, then you can use them to point you to the issue at hand, and take corrective action from there. For more help with diagnostics or resolving the issue, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
My 2003 Mazda Tribute stalls in gear, no power, rough idle, not the plugs, oil fouled black, clean maf and idle air valve
ANSWER : Hello. I would start by scanning the vehicle for codes and checking to see if all of the sensors are reading correctly. If everything looks good then chances are it needs a new computer. I have seen the computers fail on these vehicles over and over again causing the ignition circuits to not work correctly which causes the vehicle to run just like this. If you need to have this looked at, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to you to [diagnose why the vehicle is running like this] https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-idle-is-rough-inspection
Truck runs great but stalls when you come to a stop or put in park. No diagnostic code
ANSWER : Hi there. Even though, all the vacuum lines appear to be properly connected, a vacuum leak could still be present. The vacuum operated component could be leaking. This could affect proper operation of the IAC (idle air control) valve. It may be, a dirty/faulty IAC valve sticking or slow to respond. Replacing components without diagnoses, can be expensive and time consuming without resolution. I recommend having your vehicle’s engine stalling be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.
