Ok car starts and runs fine normal idle but once it gets up to warming temp it’s like it starts to bog and dies.

ANSWER : With the randomness of the codes you are pulling, it is hard to determine what they have in common. When diagnosing mechanical errors like this, keep it simple. Due to the loss of power and stalling issue, I would like you to look at the one component that may have a huge effect over all of theses parts.

The ELD is a unit which measures the amount of power coming from the battery. It allows the alternator to adjust the field, and the amount of power generated by it. If you are experiencing issues with the ELD, which allows the battery and alternator to behave incorrectly, the other electrical components in the vehicle will not work. You may have more than one issue that is all coming to a head at once.

You can test the ELD with a multimeter, but any electrical testing can be dangerous, and we recommend you proceed with caution. If you’re not comfortable with this repair, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the stalling issue firsthand and help you make the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. Several early 80’s Ford’s swapped from carburetor to fuel injected engines; including your ’84 Ford Escort. However, there were two different fuel systems available that year. If your Escort has the fuel injected engine, one item I’d check is the EGR valve or clean the throttle body.

Both systems impact fuel delivery into the engine and if they are dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build up, can starve the engine to create this type of issue. If it’s the carburetor version, the carburetor might need to be rebuilt, or may be an issue with float bowls inside the carb.

If you need assistance diagnosing the exact issue, feel free to contact one of our professional mechanics to complete an engine is stalling inspection firsthand at your own location.

ANSWER : Some model Hondas have the engine ECU in the location you described. Now that doesn’t mean you need an ECU, ECU failures are actually pretty rare. But it could be a clue.
Many electrical component failures occur at a certain temperature. A weak solder joint may expand and a circuit board lose the connection when the temperature rises. This kind of thing happens most often in fuel pump relays and power relays. Those would be the things that I would take a hard look at in your case. If you contact Your Mechanic they can send a technician to your home or office to check out your stalling Honda and let you know just what it will take to solve your problem.

ANSWER : What you are describing sounds like a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve monitors the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. This valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer and will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. This is also an important function when starting the motor as it allows the motor to run and idle on it’s own once the motor fires. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed while adjusting the air/fuel ratio constantly to allow this to happen smoothly. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about 800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Based on the information you gave, it sounds like a possible fuel starvation issue, caused by a partially blocked, in-tank fuel filter or a crack in the fuel pump housing. The remedy would be to replace the fuel pump assembly and filter. The overheating may be caused by several things, including a stuck thermostat, faulty water pump, or even a cracked head gasket. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, inspect the relevant systems to pinpoint the cause of your vehicle’s hard starting issue and overheating problem.

ANSWER : Hello There,
If your car is E85 equipped, meaning the engine is capable of running on a higher ethanol content fuel (usually indicated by the yellow fuel pumps at the gas station and gas caps), this may cause a lot of the cold start problems you are having as this is a known issue with the 2012-2015 flex fuel Toyota Tundras and Sequoias. What tends to happen with this type of fuel upon cold start situations, the vehicle’s engine control module measures the amount of ethanol in the gasoline and adjusts the air/fuel mixture ratio on the fly depending on this alcohol measurement. 100% gasoline is mixed at a 14.7/1 air/fuel ratio, while E85 (85% ethanol, 15% gasoline) is mixed at a 9.8/1 air/fuel ratio. The ECM adjusts between these two ratios depending on the ethanol content of the fuel (which can range from 0-85% as indicated above).

The problem with this begins with the ECM’s measurement of the alcohol density being incorrect for a cold start. The motor requires even more fuel than normal to get a cold engine started, and using the wrong fuel ratio from the beginning of the process leads to even more skewed startup fuel trims, a hard start and rough running until the engine warms up and stabilizes. If the measured Alcohol Density Estimate is greater than 15% and your fuel trims still read negative/lean, the ECM may need to be reprogrammed to compensate for this adjusting the fuel trim to accommodate additional fuel required for cold starting. I would recommend using a fuel with less ethanol content or taking this to the Toyota dealer to have the ECM reprogrammed to adjust for this.