Need to replace Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

ANSWER : The TPS and a scanner to test it is all that you need. The code P0122 points to the sensor but a through pinpoint test should be done to make sure the sensor is failing before you replace it.

If you need help with this, contact a certified mechanic who can diagnose your Check Engine Light code and make the necessary repairs to your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hello – this error code may be the accelerator pedal position sensor – as indicated. It also may be the throttle position sensor the matching electronic component on the engine itself, which directly influences engine power, and transmission shift quality. I would recommend a engine electronic throttle inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Hi there. It is quite possible that your car has entered what we call a fail safe or "limp mode" due to an error code being activated and stored in the ECU. This will occur when the ECU or a sensor detects a mechanical or electrical fault on one or several fuel, ignition, cooling or powertrain systems. It’s designed to allow you to safely "limp" your car to a repair facility or home so a professional mobile mechanic can complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection and determine the right course of action. It is also possible that this issue is caused by a loose vacuum line or other component like the throttle position sensor.

ANSWER : Hello there. You might to read this article about the P0171 OBD-II trouble code; as it will give you ideas on causes and possible solutions.

ANSWER : Hi there. What you received from the parts store was a code retrieval, not a diagnostic. The codes are set when a fault is detected against normal operating parameter. The computer does not know what caused the fault, only that the fault meets the criteria for this code to set. There could be a problem in the wire harness, converter, or the ECM. The code and data are needed to properly assess the direction that a diagnosis needs. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a check engine light inspection.

ANSWER : Replacing the system drier is absolutely essential. If the system has been open to the atmosphere (due to the leak in the condenser), the desiccant in the drier has been fully saturated with moisture. As far as the expansion valve, replacement is not normally implicated in a leak repair, in your case a leak in the condenser. To justify replacing the expansion valve, there would have to have been a diagnostic performed which proved a fault. If no diagnostic was performed, and there is no evidence of a fault, then it is pointless to replace the valve. But, again, drier replacement is absolutely essential. To add the drier to your order, you can simply add a note to the mechanic in your order and/or add it as a service (you will see a link that you can click on to "add services" or write in specific services). If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there:

If the mechanic completed the O2 sensor replacement, reset the codes and the error code was triggered again, it is possible that the catalytic converter is damaged and needs to be replaced. However, it’s also very common for the electrical harnesses that power these sensors to become frayed, damaged or faulty; which can also trigger the check engine light. It’s not advisable to drive a vehicle with a damaged catalytic converter for extended periods of time, as it can cause damage to internal engine components.

ANSWER : Hi there. Your vehicle has an idle air control valve that adjusts the idle via commands by the ECU. What it sounds like you adjusted was the throttle plate position when it was closed and had no adjustment on the actual idle. Adjusting the throttle plate rest position is similar to holding the gas pedal slightly to affect engine RPM. The idle air control valve (IAC) can stick over time and mileage, whether due to contamination buildup or simple wear and tear which will require replacement to correct.

Reset what you adjusted and replace the IAC for the idle concern. For the Check Engine Light, there could be an issue with the wire harness, ECU, or even the reluctor plate for the timing chain. This wheel has several notches, or teeth, with one gap, or wide tooth, that denotes cylinder 1 TDC, and provides the ECU with the position of the crankshaft. The ECU uses this information with a similar sensor for the camshaft, compares the two, and determines the relational position of the firing order, etc.

There should be a 5 volt reference available at the sensor; if not, there could be a break in the wire or the ECU is not sending the voltage. Check the wire harness for an opening or short and repair as necessary. If the harness is ok, I suspect either the reluctor plate has failed, the new sensor is defective, or the ECU has failed internally. I recommend having a certified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, assist you with a inspection of why car does not idle, a replacement of the idle air control valve, and a Check Engine Light inspection.