Car won’t accelerate past 25 mph and makes deep noise when you try too replaced o2 sensor maf sensor/ throttle body does rattle
Car won't accelerate past 25 mph and makes deep wwoom wwwom wwom sound when I try to replaced o2 sensor maf sensor crank position sensor . Throttle body rattles when I took it off and shook it and flap doenst close all the way and I don't know where throttle position sensor is if it's that
My car has 113543 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi there. It is quite possible that your car has entered what we call a fail safe or "limp mode" due to an error code being activated and stored in the ECU. This will occur when the ECU or a sensor detects a mechanical or electrical fault on one or several fuel, ignition, cooling or powertrain systems. It’s designed to allow you to safely "limp" your car to a repair facility or home so a professional mobile mechanic can complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection and determine the right course of action. It is also possible that this issue is caused by a loose vacuum line or other component like the throttle position sensor.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Fuel injector nozzles can become clogged over time, which can lead to a sputtering engine, slow acceleration and the car not having enough power. Fuel injectors can be cleaned if the problem is caught early, but as the conditions worsens, the injectors may have to be replaced.
An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine`s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.
Trouble accelerating can come from a few different engine issues. These include, but are not limited to, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, and restricted airflow. A problem with the mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, or engine speed sensor can also cause a car to have difficulty picking up speed.
With the right maintenance at the right time, your Sebring could be on the road well past the 200,000 mile mark.
One of the most common causes of jerky acceleration is a dirty fuel injector. Your fuel injectors are responsible for pushing fuel into your engine`s cylinders. This means they control the timing and amount of fuel used to keep your engine running.
A clogged fuel or air filter can make your engine sputter and your acceleration lag because the engine is not getting enough fuel or air, respectively. The combustion chamber needs the correct amount of air and fuel in order to generate combustion efficiently.
An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine`s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.
There are a few reasons why your car might be struggling to accelerate. It could be due to a problem with the timing belt, the spark plugs, or the fuel injectors. It could also be because you have a dirty air filter or a clogged fuel filter. The fuel system may also be low on fuel.
When you press down the accelerator pedal and get minimal output, it could mean you have a problem with your fuel system. The most probable issue is a clogged fuel filter. Your fuel filter works to ensure that dirt and debris do not get into the fuel system.
How much is a 2008 Chrysler Sebring worth? The value of a used 2008 Chrysler Sebring ranges from $1,116 to $6,605, based on vehicle condition, mileage, and options.
The estimated cost to maintain and repair a Chrysler Sebring ranges from $95 to $2216, with an average of $272.
2008 Chrysler Sebring Recalls
There have been no safety recalls issued from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
So, if your car starts stuttering, there`s a good chance there`s an issue with your spark plugs (or the cables attached to them). It`s not unusual for these car parts to wear out, and a faulty spark plug will cause your engine to misfire and jerk when you accelerate and for your engine to be much louder than usual.
There are a few things that could cause your car to sputter while you`re driving. The most likely culprit, however, is the fuel system, such as a bad fuel filter, fuel pump, or fuel injector. It`s also possible that there is a problem with your car`s spark plugs or with your ignition coils.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Car won’t accelerate past 25 mph and makes deep noise when you try too replaced o2 sensor maf sensor/ throttle body does rattle
ANSWER : Hi there. It is quite possible that your car has entered what we call a fail safe or "limp mode" due to an error code being activated and stored in the ECU. This will occur when the ECU or a sensor detects a mechanical or electrical fault on one or several fuel, ignition, cooling or powertrain systems. It’s designed to allow you to safely "limp" your car to a repair facility or home so a professional mobile mechanic can complete a car is slow to accelerate inspection and determine the right course of action. It is also possible that this issue is caused by a loose vacuum line or other component like the throttle position sensor.
My car won’t accelerate although I replaced the throttle body and the accelerator pedal.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the Idle Air Control valve (IAC) and see if it’s sticking or not working. The IAC valve controls the engine’s idle and keeps the engine at an optimal operating speed when the throttle is pushed or not. Usually the engine will race up and down when the valve is not working, but sometimes the engine will loose power and stall out. If you need further assistance with your engine idle not working properly, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
I have a p0171 code on my ford ranger 2.5 and have replaced fuel filter maf sensor, iac sensor, fixed vacuum leaks, replaced fuel
ANSWER : Hello there. You might to read this article about the P0171 OBD-II trouble code; as it will give you ideas on causes and possible solutions.
car won’t start.
ANSWER : A possibility is a faulty ignition switch. If the switch opens after the car starts, the engine will shut off. But, that is just a possibility and a diagnostic would have to be performed to rule that in or out. Be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Starters motors can display intermittent operation if they are faulty. With a fully charged battery, if the starter motor does not run that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit (includes the ignition switch) or a problem with the starter motor itself. If there is power to the starter motor and yet it doesn’t run, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter, or there is a big voltage drop anywhere on the circuit to the starter, then the circuit has to be traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.
Diagnostic code read o2 sensor bad, replaced o2 sensor, cleared code but engine light came back on, is it caused by bad air filter
ANSWER : Hello there. Typically jump starting a vehicle doesn’t trigger an OBD-II error code. However, one of the most common misdiagnosis issues with the P-2270 is replacing the O2 sensor before diagnosing if there are any exhaust leaks. Obviously, you’ll want to check for the exhaust leaks first, repair the damaged component, and then clear the codes before scanning the vehicle again. Sometimes the electrical harness attached to the O2 sensor is damaged or dirty which will also trigger this error code. The noise and vibration may be an indicator of a loose exhaust pipe, which may be the source of the error code staying on. If you need any help, have a technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to diagnose your Check Engine Light and make the necessary repairs.
Why is my car making this rattling noise?
ANSWER : Hi there. The rattling noise could be the drive belt or pulley that is loose when not under a load. When turning the wheels or on highway driving conditions, the noise may not be there for the engine is under a load. Try turning on the air conditioner and see if the noise goes away. If so, then the tensioner could have a weak spring.
Billing question was sent to CS for the cost of diagnosing a rattling noise on the engine and the cost of replacing the parts after the diagnosis of a 2000 Toyota Corolla with a L4-1.8L engine.
Car won’t accelerate past 25 mph
ANSWER : Hi there:
I think I answered your other question, but if the vehicle can start but won’t accelerate past 25 mph, it’s possible that your vehicle has triggered the "limp mode" activation. By connecting the cables in reverse direction it created a surge in amperage, and the flow of electrical current in the opposite direction; which bypasses any fuses or can trigger multiple warning codes. In most cases it causes serious electrical damage to computer. The limp mode happens when the ECU detects a problem inside the transmission. However, if the battery jump cables were swapped – it could have triggered this setting on your vehicle. Either way, to know for certain, you’ll have to have a mechanic physically inspect the vehicle to determine what damaged actually occurred during the jump start issue you experienced.
check engine light O2 sensor already replaced same codes still popping up after replacing old O2 sensor
ANSWER : Hi there. What you received from the parts store was a code retrieval, not a diagnostic. The codes are set when a fault is detected against normal operating parameter. The computer does not know what caused the fault, only that the fault meets the criteria for this code to set. There could be a problem in the wire harness, converter, or the ECM. The code and data are needed to properly assess the direction that a diagnosis needs. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a check engine light inspection.
