My heat doesn’t work in the rear of my vehicle.

ANSWER : The first thing to do is to check the two heater lines under rear of truck to see if both lines are hot when engine is warmed up. If they are both hot to the touch then you most likely have a bad temperature control actuator on the rear blower case. Replace actuator and recheck for temperature control.

ANSWER : Common causes of no cabin heat include malfunctioning blend door(s) (part of the in-dash ventilation network), a faulty or stuck heater control valve, a plugged heater core, stuck open engine cooling thermostat, collapsed hoses, and low coolant level. The cost to resolve the problem depends on which of the foregoing faults is the cause. If you desire a diagnostic to determine exactly why there is no cabin heat, please request a non functioning cabin heater diagnostic and the responding mechanic will come right to your location and get this resolved for you promptly.

With regard to your air conditioning system, if merely re-charging the system restored normal operation but the a/c ceased to function after a month or so, that scenario typically suggests a leak. Some leaks are really cheap to repair, like if a couple o-rings need to be replaced in system piping but if the leak is at the compressor shaft seal, that repair is more costly. It is not expensive to find the leak and diagnose the system and once the leak is found the mechanic can let you know of the exact cost to repair the leak and re-charge the system. If you desire that service please request an a/c system diagnostic – suspected refrigerant leak and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you

ANSWER : Hi there. The dashboard lights are burned out in the dash and the dimmer switch could be worn causing the lights to be weak. The gauges that seldom fail to work is most likely a loose wire in the dash panel. The fuel gauge that is not going to E when shutting off the car has a damaged rheostat within the sending unit. The sending unit is in the fuel tank attached to the fuel pump. If you need further assistance with your gauges not working, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : In order to verify that the blower motor is bad you will need to disconnect the bower connection to see if harness is getting power and ground in all speeds? You can put a test light between blower connector and operate blower switch in each setting speed to see if light stays lit in each position. If it does then check blower connection then replace blower motor and connector harness if it is burnt.

ANSWER : Hi there. Sure would appear a lot is going on electrically all at once. This could be, a problem in the PDC (power distribution center). The PDC is typically located under the hood and contains numerous fuses and relays. I don’t believe any one fuse will resolve all of the electrical issues. There is a possibility, it is not a power supply issue. It may be, the result of a poor electrical ground common to the inoperative components. Proper circuit testing should be performed. This would confirm the cause of multiple electrical failures. I recommend having your vehicle’s electrical problems be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : As unfortunate as it is, your vehicle would be considered flood damaged. Diagnosing electrical problems in a flood damaged vehicle is nearly impossible. This would take many hours or even days to determine which wiring harnesses and circuits have been affected. Then nearly all of the wiring under the dash would likely require replacement as well as many sensors and switches. On a BMW vehicle, the amount of wires and switches are likely more than that of a lower end vehicle. Due to the inefficiency in cost, you would likely be able to purchase another BMW like yours for less than what it would cost to fix your car. Many insurance companies would consider this type of damage to total out the vehicle unfortuantely.

ANSWER : From what you’ve described, it sounds like you have a stuck open thermostat. I’d recommend replacing the thermostat to see if this is the cause of the slow heat up of the vehicle since it’s a relatively quick repair. In an area like that it sounds like you’ll will need the heat in the winter very badly and as soon as possible. I would also recommend getting a coolant flush as it may help clear any possible blockage in the heater core. To avoid any unnecessary repairs, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home or office to diagnose your heating issue and make the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : It only takes a small amount of corrosion to interrupt the flow of current. You probably just have a dirty light socket. If you get a small strip of 400 grit sandpaper and rub it on the contact surfaces in the bulb socket, that will probably get you working. If that doesn’t do the trick, you have to get a test light or a meter and go hunting for the interruption. If you would like to have a technician do this for you, you can contact Your Mechanic and have one come to your home or office and check out your turn signals for you.