I’m hearing a clicking noise while the car idles in Drive, as the engine idles high.
I was idle in drive thru at a fast food restaurant and with the window down, noticed a clicking noise when my car would rev then the noise went away at a low idle. I was in drive and holding the brake. I couldn't tell if the noise was in front or on the side. It was hot out and I had the AC on. The car is a 2012 Honda CR-V EX-L.
My car has 83500 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
You may be hearing a solenoid for the vapor purge control system. This would be normal if it is a ticking noise that sounds like a clock ticking only when you give it a little gas and goes away when you let off the gas.
If you think it is something other than this, then have a mechanic inspect the noise for a proper diagnosis.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Damaged CV joint: The most common cause of a clicking or popping sound from the wheels is a broken CV joint. The CV joints, which stand for Constant Velocity, are essentially the wrists of your vehicle`s steering system.
Usually a rapid clicking noise is a good indication that your starter motor isn`t getting enough electrical current to engage – basically your solenoid is trying to engage but can`t make the connection.
Low or Dirty Engine Oil
If your car is making clicking sounds when driving, a likely culprit is low or dirty engine oil. Motor oil lubricates all of the components so that you can drive with ease. If you are running low on engine oil, the metal parts may start to tap and grind over time.
A ticking sound in your engine while idling could come from something as simple as natural wear and tear. Many components, like the injectors, are designed to make ticking noises. The valvetrain will also click when it gets older. It`s an excellent indicator that your components may be reaching the end of their life.
The engine clicking sound can be caused by a leak in your engine, a faulty oil pump, or insufficient oil in the reservoir. If you were to continue driving the vehicle, permanent damage could occur. If there isn`t enough lubrication in your engine, the engine could eventually fail.
Two common causes of a Honda ticking noise are a failed oil seal or water pump. Other causes of a ticking noise in a Honda include: Exhaust leak. Powertrain mechanical noise.
Caused by high velocity (speed) liquid media and high pressure through small pipe or valve bore.
Excessive pressure or flow rate
Some solenoids require speed-control devices for proper operation. Internal damage can also produce noisy operation. Worn armature or damaged springs are often to blame in such cases, and if wear-related issues are suspected, the valve should be examined and serviced by a professional.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
I’m hearing a clicking noise while the car idles in Drive, as the engine idles high.
ANSWER : You may be hearing a solenoid for the vapor purge control system. This would be normal if it is a ticking noise that sounds like a clock ticking only when you give it a little gas and goes away when you let off the gas.
If you think it is something other than this, then have a mechanic inspect the noise for a proper diagnosis.
My 2003 ford explorer wont start up just get click click click click click click click click
ANSWER : If the battery is weak and the voltage is dropping to below 9 volts you will get the clicking without the starter turning the motor. Have the battery voltage checked and if battery cannot hold a load then replace it and clean the battery terminals and recheck system to see if it starts.
Can front wheel drive car engine power rear wheel drive
ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.
Metallic click sound when putting car in drive or reverse from park, and another click (sometimes) when making a turn.
ANSWER : You may have damaged the axle or strut. I would have the entire front inspected and have the clicking diagnosed. When anyone hits something hard enough to pop a tire there is most likely damage to some component in the area where it was hit. A visual inspection may or may not identify the problem, but a good mechanic can road test and hear the sound and should be able to pinpoint the cause of the clicking noise and recommend a repair.
When I’m driving, sometimes the car over revs and jerks when I shift gears after the cars been on for a while
ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle speed sensors and engine speed sensors. Based on this information, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), or the Transmission Control Unit (TCM), executes the appropriate upshifts and downshifts by sending a signal to one of several shift solenoids. These transmission solenoids have spring-loaded plungers inside them, which are wrapped with wire. When this coil of wire receives an electrical charge from the TCM / ECU, it causes these plungers to open, allowing transmission fluid to flow into the valve body and pressurize the desired clutches and bands. When this happens, the transmission changes gears and you continue down the road. The computer controls the transmission solenoid in several ways. If the vehicle is equipped with a dedicated Transmission Control Unit, it can open or close the hydraulic circuit using a direct 12v signal. In some cases, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) can control the solenoid’s plunger by turning the ground circuit on and off. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your transmission.
What you are describing may be a result of a faulty speed sensor, potentially low transmission fluid or a even a faulty transmission control solenoid. As your vehicle travels down the road, the computer analyzes data being sent by vehicle speed sensors and engine speed sensors. Based on this information, the Engine Control Unit (ECU), or the Transmission Control Unit (TCM), executes the appropriate upshifts and downshifts by sending a signal to one of several shift solenoids. These transmission solenoids have spring-loaded plungers inside them, which are wrapped with wire. When this coil of wire receives an electrical charge from the TCM / ECU, it causes these plungers to open, allowing transmission fluid to flow into the valve body and pressurize the desired clutches and bands. When this happens, the transmission changes gears and you continue down the road. The computer controls the transmission solenoid in several ways. If the vehicle is equipped with a dedicated Transmission Control Unit, it can open or close the hydraulic circuit using a direct 12v signal. In some cases, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) can control the solenoid’s plunger by turning the ground circuit on and off. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your transmission.
Car revs high and jerks when first starting to drive car, while driving.
ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have low transmission fluid or a faulty transmission control solenoid. As you know, automatic transmissions use pressurized hydraulic fluid to change gears. Every time a gear change is required, the car’s computer activates a transmission solenoid, which directs transmission fluid into the valve body to engage the correct gear. When this is faulty or not working properly, this can cause a delay in gear shifting or in some cases cause the car to not shift at all. This type of problem is amplified any time the transmission is low on fluid creating a drop in hydraulic pressure. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
It sounds like you may have low transmission fluid or a faulty transmission control solenoid. As you know, automatic transmissions use pressurized hydraulic fluid to change gears. Every time a gear change is required, the car’s computer activates a transmission solenoid, which directs transmission fluid into the valve body to engage the correct gear. When this is faulty or not working properly, this can cause a delay in gear shifting or in some cases cause the car to not shift at all. This type of problem is amplified any time the transmission is low on fluid creating a drop in hydraulic pressure. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
Clicking noise in idle (link of Video of noise included)
ANSWER : Hi there. Although it is hard to pinpoint the exact source of this noise via a video, it sounds a lot like an exhaust leak. When the exhaust manifold of exhaust tubes age, they are exposed to elements, creating weakness in the metal and eventually will crack or break. It is also possible that this sound is caused by cylinder head hardware that is loose (such as lifters or rocker arms) or not getting enough lubrication. Again, without being there it is impossible to know for certain, but you might want to have a professional mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection to determine what is causing this issue.
High idling, engine misfiring, car jumps at high RPMs
ANSWER : Hey there thanks for writing in about your 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. The high idle is likely a bad idle air control motor (or air leak in the intake system). The misfire also may be caused by the factory spark plug gap being too great (.045"). Gap your plugs to .032" instead. To have this checked, have a qualified mechanic inspect the high idling and misfiring problems in order to have this correctly repaired and addressed.
