I put a fuel pump in and a fuel pump relay. The relay works but there is no power to the fuel pump.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be an issue with the wiring to the fuel pump between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Remove the wiring to the fuel pump and check the resistance from the wiring from the relay to the fuel pump. There should be no more than 1 ohm of resistance. If there is more resistance than 1 ohm, then there is a break or corrosion in the wiring. Also, check the ground circuit and make sure that the fuel pump is getting a proper ground. If you need further assistance with your fuel pump not operating, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : You need to look at the theft light on dash to make sure it comes on and goes off when you turn the key to the on position. If light comes on and stays on then your theft system is causing the fuel pump to not be engaged. I recommend you check the theft system and then scan the computer for theft system codes. You may need to reprogram the keys to work or you have an bad sensor for the ignition key in the steering column.

ANSWER : Hi there. There could be multiple issues causing your lack of spark problem, ranging from a minor electrical short in the main relay to an issue with your ECU. In order to know for sure, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete an electrical problems inspection.

ANSWER : The two tanks are designed to work together and so BOTH pumps must be functioning and, as well, the related fuel system supply code, the Code P0232 that has set has to be resolved. P0232 means that the fuel pump relay is stuck on, keeping power supplied to the fuel pump even after the ignition has been turned off although another possibility is the fuel pump secondary power circuit has a short to battery voltage. The factory service manual (FSM) specifies a very lengthy diagnostic (because you have separate tanks). If you do not have the FSM, your best bet is to request a fuel pump diagnostic – dual tanks and let a certified mechanic get to the bottom of this. With regard to the other code, P0704, that code will set if the clutch switch is defective, there is worn clutch pedal lever or clutch lever bushing, shorted or open wiring and/or connectors in the clutch switch circuit, a blown fuse or burnt fusible link and/or, rarely, a faulty PCM or programming error. If you request the pump diagnostic the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : This may likely be related to the fuel pressure regulator. This is a unit that helps to maintain the fuel pressure in the system. When this is not working, this may cause an erratic fluctuation in the fuel pressure or in some cases, no fuel pressure at all. If you’d like assistance with this repair, I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose the issue firsthand and service your fuel pressure regulator as necessary.

ANSWER : If there is access to a wiring diagram, you can disconnect the fuel pump harness and install a test light in between the power and ground circuits and turn the key to accessory or try to start the vehicle and if the test lamp lights up, the circuit is not the problem and you may have picked up a faulted new fuel pump. IF you can hear the fuel pump power up and there is no fuel pressure at the fuel rail, the fuel filter may be clogged. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer inspection of the vehicle to run a few tests and offer a more personal diagnosis of your fuel system concerns.

ANSWER : There are quite a few reports of PCM (Powertrain Control Module, AKA computer) failures causing your problem, but before you go replacing the PCM, do some more pinpoint tests. This may require you to find a wiring diagram of all the wires coming from the PCM.

The first thing I would do is to connect a scanner to the car and see if you can communicate with the PCM. As a technician, I have access to communities of technicians where repeat failures are reported. In these reports, it is most common when the PCM fails in this fashion, that you will not have PCM communication. If you do have communication and the Check Engine Light turns on with the key on, I would be leaning away from the PCM being the problem.

However, this is by no means conclusive. You could be correct in your thoughts about a wiring problem mid vehicle. On most GM vehicles, there is a connector along the frame rail for the wiring harness that services the fuel module in the tank. This has problems with corrosion because it sits under the vehicle exposed to the elements. But why am I doubtful of this, and this will require you to confirm where the power starts and stops, is you stated you didn’t have power from the fuse box. This would be before this connector and the fuel pump. If this is the case, I wouldn’t be thinking of a wiring problem mid vehicle anymore.

I am wondering if you confirmed the fuse box was getting power? It is a very common problem that when we move wiring we inadvertently move the damaged wiring and fix the problem for the short term. You may have done this when replacing the fuse box. Not to mention you seem to have an intermittent failure on your hands. This compounds the process quite a bit.

I’m not sure how you are confirming you have power at the various points, but I highly recommend a test light over a multi-meter. A test light draws current and a multi-meter does not. There can be voltage present but not a good enough connection to carry current. This is a very important distinction when you are battling bad connections. The problem with a test light though, is knowing when it shouldn’t be used. Some test lights draw too much current and can damage computer modules. Even us technicians perform tests on modules at our own risk.

The best way to test a relay is to simply use a jumper wire to bypass them. If I suspect there is a problem with the power supply to the fuel pump, this is the first thing I do. This way I can be sure it isn’t the relay or the PCM that turns the relay on. If the fuel pump does not run, use the before mentioned test light to find where the power stops. This requires you to methodically track the wire back to the fuel pump. I usually start at the central connector, if it has one. Not all of them do. I go directly to the pump if I can, but this is often not easy to access without dropping the fuel tank down. If you successfully confirm power to the pump, it maybe a bad ground, in which case the easiest way to confirm this is to add a ground yourself.

If this circuit checks out good, a few other things to check are power and ground to the PCM. Locate the wire from the PCM that powers the fuel pump relay. This can be done at the relay connector while you are testing the fuel pump circuit without the relay. When you turn the key on, on of the four terminals should receive power from the PCM for a few seconds. It will turn off after a couple of seconds if the PCM doesn’t see a signal that the motor is running. This is normal operation.

As for the air pump, I wouldn’t think this is an indication of the problem unless this occurred at the exact same time as the fuel pump failure. If so, I would suspect a wiring harness is shorting to ground somewhere. If they didn’t occur at the same time, this is most likely a separate issue.

The challenge you have here is isolating each part of the system. The PCM, the fuel pump relay, or a wiring issue. The PCM is actually fairly easy to check. Is the Check Engine Light on with key on and does it communicate with a scanner? Then follow the fuel pump relay test I outlined above. If it is a bad connection somewhere in the system, you will need a good wiring diagram and a well thought out plan to isolate where the problem is. This can be the most difficult to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent. Find a wiring diagram and study it carefully. If you’d like help, you can have a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect your car’s loss of power and make the correct repairs.

Good luck. I hope I have been of assistance.

ANSWER : At key on, the fuel pump is normally only powered momentarily to pressurize the system. If you are testing during this brief interval, you have to apply a volt meter at the instant the key is turned on. Otherwise, the circuit will be normally open until the vehicle actually starts. If you are detecting momentary power during that window, then your no start condition is "probably" not related to a fault in the pump circuit.

If you detect no power at ANY time to the pump (including during key on), your only recourse is the Factory Service Manual wiring diagram. With the diagram in hand, you have to trace the fuel pump circuit from the power source to find the interruption. There may be a fusible link in the circuit; also check the pump ground. Obviously check the wiring harness and plug connections as those were handled during the repair. You can probe the new motor terminals to see if they are open. If the motor is good, you should find a small winding resistance of maybe 3 ohms or so (varies from pump model to pump model).

If you desire a mobile repair for this, simply request an electrical diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.