Have replace rear brake pads 6 times in three months.

ANSWER : Hi there:

It’s very possible that you have either a warped rotor that is causing your brake pads to constantly rub or the caliper is damaged; causing the same problem. You should have a professional mechanic complete a rear brakes inspection before the issue gets worse and creates a potential safety issue.

ANSWER : Hi Doug. I have forwarded your inquiry to our customer sales department to see if they can see if they are able to put you in contact with Ricardo. If you had work previously done, you should have been sent a direct email from our sales team. You might want to reply to that email directly to expedite the contact process, as this forum is reserved for automotive maintenance recommendations and repair suggestions. Thanks.

ANSWER : The brake pads that were installed the first time should of been installed with new or resurfaced rotors. Most noises are from uneven surfaces in the rotor and pads that do not match up causing a squeal or grind noise. To do the brakes and help prevent noises you should replace the rotors and pads with quality premium components.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. These situations are understandably questionable. The service providers at a lot of common oil changing and tire repair centers will quote you for a variety of things that can be updated. This does not always mean you are in dire need for more repairs. If braking seems to be harder, spongy, or takes longer, then you have reason to be concerned. Otherwise, you should check the amount of brake pad material left on the calipers. This can be visually inspected without too much trouble. Remove the wheel and physically measure the amount left, compare them to your vehicle specifications. It is a little early to worry about brake fluid or the rotors. However if the brake fluid is low, the rotors are warped from a hard stop, or there are obvious issues you should look into the system further. Only further inspection will confirm or deny the recommendations. For a second inspection, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : You will have to bleed the brakes from the farthest location all the way to the master cylinder. There is still air in the lines causing the issue. Check the vibrations on the vehicle to see if the engine mounts are damaged or if the brakes are not releasing causing the engine to run harder than normal to overcome the braking force. If you need further assistance with your vehicle’s brake system, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : All four wheels have to be bled starting with the right rear, then left rear, right front, and left front. Inasmuch as air may be trapped as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw, you have to have a relatively fast, and substantial (in volume) flow of brake fluid during bleeding to expel all air from the system. Generally, 5 to 10 PSI on a pressure system is sufficient. 20 PSI is not necessary. You should use a power bleeder, they are not very expensive for a simple one. If you car is equipped with ABS and/or electronic stability control, you will need a VAG 1551, VAG 1552, or equivalent bi-directional scan tool that is capable of activating the ABS/ESC pump. Activation is necessary to expel air from the ABS components of the system. If you would like to have this checked, a qualified professional from YourMechanic can come to your location to inspect the spongy brake issue and let you know what needs repair.

ANSWER : Hi there. Were there shims installed on the old pads? New shims on the new pads? Missing shims can create noise while braking which is why the antiseize worked for a short time. What brand/level of brake pads did your husband install? Usually, the lowest priced pads are the noisiest. The antisieze that he installed is not recommended to be put on brake components as the high temperatures of these parts can cause the lubricant to run and contaminate the pads and rotors. There are specifically designed brake pad shim lubricants designed to withstand these high temperatures; these are the only ones that should be used if needed. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts and a possible safety concern. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brakes are making a noise inspection.