Car won’t start or crank ASD relay making rapid clicking noise when key out of ignition 1999 Dodge Intrepid

ANSWER : Hi there – you have pretty-well identified this problem yourself – well done! Yes, the Automatic Shutdown Relay appears to be sticking in the "power on" position, which is providing a power path to the fuel pump as well as other components. I would recommend an electrical inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, confirm this diagnose, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : If the battery is weak and the voltage is dropping to below 9 volts you will get the clicking without the starter turning the motor. Have the battery voltage checked and if battery cannot hold a load then replace it and clean the battery terminals and recheck system to see if it starts.

ANSWER : Based on the information you provided, it sounds like you may need to replace your starter. Your brakes should feel better once you get the vehicle started, unless you have a brake issue. The brake booster will provide about three applications of the brakes with the vehicle turned off until it looses enough vacuum to make the pedal feel harder.

The ABS light indicates that the antilock brakes are not operational. If the light stays on once the vehicle is started and moving, then suspect a wheel speed sensor, as that is the most common ABS fault.

A certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, will be able to determine the exact cause of your starting issue and recommend the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.

If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.

If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.

When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.

All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.

If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.

ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like the spare key isn’t being recognized by the immobilizer system. The method you stated that you performed sounded like the procedure to manually program the wireless fob portion to lock and unlock the doors. If the key isn’t programmed or the immobilizer system has lost the registration, then it will need to be completed and this usually has to be completed by the dealer. Unfortunately, Your Mechanic does not offer key programming services. Your Mechanic does have available technicians that come to your home or office to perform requested services, inspections, and repairs. Feel free to schedule your next service at www.yourmechanic.com.

ANSWER : I suspect you have a dead (or very low) battery, a failed alternator, and an electrical circuitry problem as well. It may be hard to tell which came first if there is wiring damage already. The clicking you hear is likely the starter solenoid not getting enough power because of a dead battery.

If the car shut down while driving, that is usually an indicator that the alternator is not charging the system. Once you have jumped it off, it should continue to run on the alternator. The failure to run more than 10 mph and the smoke from the engine compartment suggest very low system voltage and additional wiring problems sapping all the electrical system’s power.

I would recommend having a professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, perform an inspection to determine why the battery will not hold a charge and assess any additional problems with the alternator.

ANSWER : It sounds like there is some type of drain on the battery. When there is low voltage in a battery, it can cause several symptoms. The electrical systems can act very strangely when they don’t have the correct voltage being supplied. When a battery won’t hold a charge, it can be caused by a wiring issue, a bad battery, or some type of parasitic draw that can slowly pull voltage from the battery. Some electrical diagnosis done by a professional, such as one from YourMechanic, will be necessary to pinpoint the cause.

ANSWER : Hello. From what you describe it would appear that your vehicle is having some sort of malfunction with the security system. It may be possible that the security system is enabled and preventing the vehicle from starting. This may or may not be related to the the recent battery replacement for the remote, or it could also be related to the EPS light. The EPS light comes on when the computer detects an issue with the vehicle’s electronic power steering system. There are cases where a steering malfunction will prevent the vehicle from starting, if the issue detected is serious enough to significantly affect the vehicle’s handling. It is unlikely that the brake fluid or engine oil are related to the issue, but it would not be a bad idea to make sure that they are topped off. I would recommend retrieving the trouble codes that are setting off the EPS light, as they will likely reveal some information on what the issue may be. Also keep in mind that a no start condition can be caused by other things, such as issues with the ignition system, or even the starter itself. As these sorts of electrical issues can sometimes be difficult to diagnose, I would recommend having a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come to your location to [diagnose the cause of your warning light, and if it may be related to the no start condition.