Quit running, but starts after waiting a while?

van quits running after waiting a while starts and runs then quits again. Seems like battery and starter are ok. I think its a fuel issue

My car has 120000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hi There,
What you are describing sounds like a common problem with ignition coils failing related to what is known as "heat cycling." Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

The most common reasons a Chrysler Town & Country engine stalling are the fuel system, the air intake system, or the ignition system. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue.
The most common reasons a Chrysler Town & Country won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.
The most common reasons a Chrysler Town & Country engine makes a ticking noise are low oil level or pressure, an issue with the ignition system, or an exhaust leak.
The most common reasons a Chrysler Voyager won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.
The most common and obvious reason your car may start then die is the fuel shortage in your engine. This happens because there`s not enough fuel in the fuel rail, and there`s no fuel pressure to keep the engine alive. The reason isn`t always you forgetting to fill up your gas tank.
Low transmission fluid or a broken torque converter, which doesn`t give the transmission enough power to shift. Low fuel. Broken fuel pump or fuel injectors, which means that the gas isn`t reaching the engine. Corrosion on the battery cables or terminates which prevents your battery from charging through the alternator …
If the car cranks when you turn the key, but the engine won`t start, it could be because fuel isn`t getting to the engine. One potential reason for this could be dirty fuel injectors. Over time, the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with rust, corrosion or debris.
If your vehicle won`t start, it`s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter.
It might be a battery or alternator problem.

Perhaps your battery`s dead, or your alternator, which charges the battery, isn`t working correctly. If the source of the clicking is electrical, the starter (a small motor energized by the battery that gets the engine running) doesn`t have enough juice to stay powered.

An engine with low oil or low oil pressure can make a ticking noise due to a lack of lubrication. If you are low on oil, it may indicate either oil consumption or an oil leak, both of which should be addressed as soon as possible. If you have low oil pressure, you will likely get a warning on the dash.
The most common reasons a Chrysler 200 won`t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.
Bad Sensors

One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.

Connected to the battery is the alternator, which works to generate power for your vehicle`s electrical components. When you have a brand-new battery but still can`t start the car, the alternator might be the issue. Cold and damp climates may increase wear on an alternator, causing it to fail.
The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and speed of the crankshaft and other parameters that play an important role when starting the engine. If the crankshaft position sensor is having a problem, the vehicle may have intermittent starting issues or not start at all.
As a camshaft position sensor weakens, so does the data it transmits to the ECM. Eventually the data signal becomes so weak the ECM switches off fuel and spark delivery, and your engine will not start.
A well-maintained 2013 Chrysler Town & Country should last around 200,000 miles, which is about 100,000 miles less than the top-rated Toyota Sienna.
The starter relay makes a clicking sound, but the engine does not rotate, which indicates that the starter motor is not receiving enough current from the relay. This may also be a sign of low or exhausted battery power. Only when it transmits enough current to the starter, the relay starts to work.
Whirring sound: This might mean that the solenoid is worn out and unable to engage the flywheel. The sound you hear is the armature in the starter spining on its own but unable to crank the engine to start.
Lubrication issues, oil sludging, coolant leaks, overheating and low-mileage engine failures have plagued this engine family from the get-go. Some blame the design of the engine itself for all the ills it has suffered, while others blame consumers for not maintaining their engines properly.
The most common reasons a Chrysler 200 engine stalling are the fuel system, the air intake system, or the ignition system.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.

Fuel pump engages. Batery good, alternator good volts, jump start helps when wont start. Temp does not matter. Intermittent?
ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

Car started shaking. Cleaned carb and air filter. Now it starts, runs, dies, or starts and dies.
ANSWER : Hello. The stalling issues you are having may by caused by a variety of issues. Typically these symptoms can be blamed on fuel, spark, or air. Fuel and spark being the most common systems to fail. Starting with the air filter and cleaning the carburetor were good steps to start. You need to take a better look at the spark system. The spark wires can be tested to make sure the plugs are receiving the voltage that they need to be. You can also test the fuel system by spraying some starter fluid into the air intake. If this helps the engine start and run better than before, then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. This may include the fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors, or a clogged fuel line. The shaking is due to the improper combustion happening in the engine. This will be corrected when the engine is running properly. More testing is the only way to know definitively what the issue is.

I changed the fuel pump and truck ran great for 3 days. Now after 3 days, the truck dies. It will start running for a few minutes, then dies like before.
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to help. It sounds like you should disconnect the connector to the fuel pump and inspect it for any signs of getting hot. The female connections may be too loose on the fuel pump and lose contact after running and getting hot. If there are indeed any signs of problems, then I’d suggest replacing connector and adding dielectric lube to pins before installation. This should solve the problem, but if you continue to experience issues, feel free to reach out to us for help again.

Wont start (Click), shift gear from P to R then back to P Starts it, after runs for a while it starts up fine.
ANSWER : Your vehicle has something called a neutral safety switch that will prevent the vehicle from starting when it is in any gear position other than park or neutral. Occasionally, this switch can malfunction causing the car to stall as soon as you put it into any gear. This switch usually also monitors gear selection data as well to transmit back to the computer. This switch is connected to the starter solenoid which allows it to complete the starter circuit only when the transmission is in park or neutral. I would suggest having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

My Blazer will crank over but not start by itself. It needs starting fluid to start.
ANSWER : Hi there. If you have not replaced your EGR valve, mass air flow sensor or the TPS on your Blazer, you might want to start with these repairs. It is also possible that the throttle body itself is damaged, especially if you’re able to start it on fluid. If you want to avoid chasing parts and repairs, the best solution may be to have a professional mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car is hard to start inspection.

Why does my car struggle to start every 4th to 5th time?
ANSWER : It sounds like your starting issues may be linked to a problem with air metering or fuel delivery. A clogged or malfunctioning idle air control valve may show some of the same symptoms you are describing. The idle air control valve can be stuck in a cold start position which may work well if the car has been sitting a few hours, but as the engine warms up there must be a regulation in airflow. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer look at your hard start situation and offer a more personal diagnosis.

Quit running, but starts after waiting a while?
ANSWER : Hi There,
What you are describing sounds like a common problem with ignition coils failing related to what is known as "heat cycling." Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.