Cant find the 33rd fuse in fuse box for drivers power seat

ANSWER : Hello and thank you for contacting YourMechanic. The book says that you can use a 15, 20, 25, or 30 amp fuse. The power to the heaters are operated through the wiring to the main harness. There could have been a wire tied into it to make the seat work on the same circuit as the driver seat. This is common to find in the vehicles.

You can try putting a 15 amp fuse in the slot and see if the seat works. Try to avoid using a high amp fuse for if there is a problem with the heater you don’t want to burn it. If nothing seems to work, then the heater in the seat has failed and needs replaced.

If you need further assistance troubleshooting your vehicle, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you with a seat inspection at your home or office. Best of luck.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. There are two fuse boxes located on the vehicle. One is under the hood in the main fuse box. It controls and protects the engine components. The other fuse box is located inside the cab of the car. This interior fuse box controls the components inside the cab, which includes the radio, windows, seats, and other driver controls. It is located below and to the left of the steering wheel. You will find fuse 33 there, and it too will have a diagram on the cover to show you which fuse it is.

ANSWER : Hello there, while this is not the most common issue, it does happen from time to time. There is usually 2 fuses per seat depending on opinions and if the vehicle has memory seats. The seats use a separate switch for each function of the seat such as up/down and incline. If a fuse keeps repeatedly blowing there is more going on. Fuses do not blow for no reason. There are a few likely causes for this, such as the seat motor, a shorted wire, or a switch malfunction. A qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, will be able to diagnose your electrical system and perform any repairs required.

ANSWER : The power seat motors on your 2004 Kia Amanti have only one fuse, and it is a 30 amp fuse. If you replace this fuse, and it blows when you try and operate the seat then there is a problem in the seat motors. The only way to fix the problem is to replace the seat assembly. You could have a mechanic come and diagnose your power seat problem to let you know what repairs need to be done.

ANSWER : Hi there. Although this video is for a GMC, the process of manually adjusting a broken electrical seat is the same.

ANSWER : Without knowing what the actual problem is, it would be difficult to say which estimate is accurate. It is quite a price difference. The problem can be caused by a faulty electric motor, which may be a few hundred dollars to replace, or possible a broken seat frame or drive mechanism, which can cost much more One of our mobile technicians can come to you and check into why the seat is not working and give you a diagnosis and/or estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : From what you’ve described, your power seat has an electrical issue. There is separate control setting for each seat position. The power seat has motors that drive a track assembly to move forward or backward. The motors or related wiring could have failed causing this condition. This will require an inspection of the power seats system. Consider YourMechanic if you need assistance with getting this done.

ANSWER : There are quite a few reports of PCM (Powertrain Control Module, AKA computer) failures causing your problem, but before you go replacing the PCM, do some more pinpoint tests. This may require you to find a wiring diagram of all the wires coming from the PCM.

The first thing I would do is to connect a scanner to the car and see if you can communicate with the PCM. As a technician, I have access to communities of technicians where repeat failures are reported. In these reports, it is most common when the PCM fails in this fashion, that you will not have PCM communication. If you do have communication and the Check Engine Light turns on with the key on, I would be leaning away from the PCM being the problem.

However, this is by no means conclusive. You could be correct in your thoughts about a wiring problem mid vehicle. On most GM vehicles, there is a connector along the frame rail for the wiring harness that services the fuel module in the tank. This has problems with corrosion because it sits under the vehicle exposed to the elements. But why am I doubtful of this, and this will require you to confirm where the power starts and stops, is you stated you didn’t have power from the fuse box. This would be before this connector and the fuel pump. If this is the case, I wouldn’t be thinking of a wiring problem mid vehicle anymore.

I am wondering if you confirmed the fuse box was getting power? It is a very common problem that when we move wiring we inadvertently move the damaged wiring and fix the problem for the short term. You may have done this when replacing the fuse box. Not to mention you seem to have an intermittent failure on your hands. This compounds the process quite a bit.

I’m not sure how you are confirming you have power at the various points, but I highly recommend a test light over a multi-meter. A test light draws current and a multi-meter does not. There can be voltage present but not a good enough connection to carry current. This is a very important distinction when you are battling bad connections. The problem with a test light though, is knowing when it shouldn’t be used. Some test lights draw too much current and can damage computer modules. Even us technicians perform tests on modules at our own risk.

The best way to test a relay is to simply use a jumper wire to bypass them. If I suspect there is a problem with the power supply to the fuel pump, this is the first thing I do. This way I can be sure it isn’t the relay or the PCM that turns the relay on. If the fuel pump does not run, use the before mentioned test light to find where the power stops. This requires you to methodically track the wire back to the fuel pump. I usually start at the central connector, if it has one. Not all of them do. I go directly to the pump if I can, but this is often not easy to access without dropping the fuel tank down. If you successfully confirm power to the pump, it maybe a bad ground, in which case the easiest way to confirm this is to add a ground yourself.

If this circuit checks out good, a few other things to check are power and ground to the PCM. Locate the wire from the PCM that powers the fuel pump relay. This can be done at the relay connector while you are testing the fuel pump circuit without the relay. When you turn the key on, on of the four terminals should receive power from the PCM for a few seconds. It will turn off after a couple of seconds if the PCM doesn’t see a signal that the motor is running. This is normal operation.

As for the air pump, I wouldn’t think this is an indication of the problem unless this occurred at the exact same time as the fuel pump failure. If so, I would suspect a wiring harness is shorting to ground somewhere. If they didn’t occur at the same time, this is most likely a separate issue.

The challenge you have here is isolating each part of the system. The PCM, the fuel pump relay, or a wiring issue. The PCM is actually fairly easy to check. Is the Check Engine Light on with key on and does it communicate with a scanner? Then follow the fuel pump relay test I outlined above. If it is a bad connection somewhere in the system, you will need a good wiring diagram and a well thought out plan to isolate where the problem is. This can be the most difficult to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent. Find a wiring diagram and study it carefully. If you’d like help, you can have a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect your car’s loss of power and make the correct repairs.

Good luck. I hope I have been of assistance.