Can you drive a car that had the ARP head studs honed and the val
My car has 200 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.
Let’s simplify some of the things he’s suggesting. If he broke a connecting rod on his 1.6 liter engine, that probably caused a lot of internal engine damage to occur. Installing new pistons, piston rings, oil pan gaskets and installing new head studs (ARP are nice but irrelevant here) and honed the cylinders (a needed job anytime pistons or rods are replaced) and rebuilt the valves; that’s just the basics for any engine rebuild. If he also installed new valve guides, new timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft, main bearings and all new cylinder head hardware, and the engine was never "windowed" (meaning the broken rod broke through the engine block) then the rebuilt engine should be good. Without knowing if all that other work was completed, it’s impossible to tell you whether or not the repairs are good. In regards to oil changes, during a break in period, replacing every 100 with filters at 500 is a bit excessive (for a street motor). Once broken in correctly, it should be every 3,000 for oil and filter on any rebuilt engine.
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One advantage of studs is that they provide a more secure connection between the cylinder head and the engine block. Additionally, studs are less likely to break than head bolts, which can cause serious engine damage. Studs also allow for more accurate torquing, which helps to prevent leaks.
Typically, an under torqued bolt will deform and be unable to provide as much clamping force as needed. An over torqued bolt will break.
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Let’s simplify some of the things he’s suggesting. If he broke a connecting rod on his 1.6 liter engine, that probably caused a lot of internal engine damage to occur. Installing new pistons, piston rings, oil pan gaskets and installing new head studs (ARP are nice but irrelevant here) and honed the cylinders (a needed job anytime pistons or rods are replaced) and rebuilt the valves; that’s just the basics for any engine rebuild. If he also installed new valve guides, new timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft, main bearings and all new cylinder head hardware, and the engine was never "windowed" (meaning the broken rod broke through the engine block) then the rebuilt engine should be good. Without knowing if all that other work was completed, it’s impossible to tell you whether or not the repairs are good. In regards to oil changes, during a break in period, replacing every 100 with filters at 500 is a bit excessive (for a street motor). Once broken in correctly, it should be every 3,000 for oil and filter on any rebuilt engine.
It sounds like you may have a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor. The problem this can cause may also be compounded when the engine is cold due to the change in air density in cooler weather. The mass air flow sensor monitors air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the motor. This sensor relays information about fuel and air temperature, air speed entering the motor and many other things to the ECM which uses this to make adjustments to fuel supply to the motor. A dirty or faulty sensor can cause an imbalanced air/fuel load to be supplied to the motor which results in an over fueling or under fueling situation depending on the conditions. This type of inconsistent fuel supply to the motor may cause a hesitation, loss of power, a jerking reaction, potentially a bit of black exhaust smoke and typically a strong smell of fuel when this sensor is malfunctioning. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to your home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
It sounds like you are describing the symptoms of a failing throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor monitors the throttle position of the throttle plate inside the throttle body in relation to your foot position on the gas pedal. Based upon the inputs from the sensor reading your foot’s position on the pedal, the ECU then makes the direction to supply more or less fuel to the motor. When this sensor is not working properly, this can cause intermittent responses when pressing the gas pedal. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to you home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.
On most modern cars, there are a series of sensors that are designed to monitor mechanical systems; such as the transmission on your Saturn. In most cases, when a problem occurs, a trouble code is stored in the on board computer that will indicate what is causing the troubles. The best way to find out what’s going on is to not take your car to a shop; let the mechanic come to you. Contact one of our professional mobile mechanics to complete a check engine light inspection first. This will allow them diagnose what’s wrong with your car so they can recommend and complete the right repairs.
