Can a balance issue with the tires also cause the care to pulse or shake a little when breaking.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. A poor tire balance will not cause the pulsation when you hit the brakes. This might be from the brake rotors being warped. A certified mechanic will be able to diagnose this issue for you and provide you with the service necessary for repair. If you’d like, you can request a YourMechanic certified technician come to your home or place of business to perform a Brake System Inspection.

ANSWER : Unless severely warped, brake rotors will rarely cause a vibration when the brakes are not applied so I wouldn’t thing they would be the cause of your issue. I would lean towards the tires and/or wheels. Even if a tire/wheel combo balances out perfectly, factors like lateral run-out can still create a vibration. Lateral run-out would be the side to side motion of the wheels while spinning. This can easily be inspected with each wheel mounted on the wheel balancing machine. Careful observation while the wheel is spinning should indicate if there is any "wobble" side to side while spinning. The tire compound can be a factor as well. The rubber goes through constant heating and cooling. The rubber heats up from driving as well as atmospheric heat. Then they cool again when parked and temperatures drop overnight. Some tire compounds can soften a bit more than others when heated. Then when parked overnight or for a few hours, the tires will cool and can cause a ’flat spot" which can cause a vibration that may lessen as the tires heat back up. If the two sets of tires were the same brand, try another type of tire. TIP: If the steering wheel is vibrating back and forth, then the cause is with the front wheels and/or tires. If you feel the shimmy more in the seat of your pants than the steering wheel, then the issue is coming from the rear wheels and/or tires. Vibration can certainly be annoying and uncomfortable. Have a certified technician inspect the vehicle more closely. AA good tech should be able to find the cause for you.

ANSWER : If the tire/wheel balancing and run-out (side to side motion) have been checked and ruled out, the fault may be suspension or driveline related. Worn inner c/v joints for example, can cause a vibration while accelerating either from a stop or at speed whenever they are under a load. Broken or worn engine and transmission mounts can also be a cause. The mounts are designed to keep driveline movement to a minimum as well as isolate the passenger compartment from vibration. If the mounts are weak or broken, the engine and transmission can be moving around more that designed and cause vibrations as well as stress on other components like wiring and hoses. Engine misfires can also cause a vibration. A certified technician can inspect the vibrations and isolate the exact cause.

ANSWER : Due to the size and weight of 20 inch wheels, you may need to have the tire and wheel assemblies balanced on the vehicle. When tires are balanced only the tire and wheel assembly is balanced. Doing a high speed on the vehicle balance will also balance the tire and wheel assembly with the hub and rotating assembly, such as brake rotors, drums, and drive axles, which will be further amplified by the larger wheels. This is not a service that all tire shops have the equipment to perform so you have to shop around to see who can do high speed on the vehicle balance.

ANSWER : Hi there. The engineers that design vehicles do so by making sure each part is precisely sized to match others – so the vehicle operates safe and efficiently. This includes the wheel and tire overall width and circumference. What you’re describing is known as the plus (+1) tire / wheel method. However, in your case, it’s in reverse. Usually the manufacturer will permit the vehicle owner to increase the wheel size (to go from a 16" wheel to 17" wheel), but reduce the aspect ratio by one size (from 65 to 55). This usually equates in having an overall circumference that is within recommended specs. However, since you’ve gone down (-1) tire / wheel size. It could cause premature wear and tear, eventual suspension damage, but also damage to the brake calipers. By decreasing the wheel size, the likelihood of your wheels clipping the brakes while turning has increased from the 16 wheel option. As with any aftermarket "upgrade" – always check with your vehicle manufacturer and follow their recommendations.

ANSWER : A clicking noise on turning is very characteristic of a failed outboard CV axle joint. Sometimes, in such a circumstance, you can see that the rubber outboard boot is actually torn and leaking grease. If you see that (look behind the wheel toward the axle end), the axle for sure will have to be serviced. If you change the axle, be sure to install a new rubber seal on the transmission output side so that you do not have transmission fluid leaks with the new axle (a common mistake is to overlook that seal; if an old, left-in-place seal leaks after the axle is put in the job has to be done all over again). Vibration without actual shaking of the steering wheel "might" be related to the axle issue. On the other hand, such vibration could also be due to a failed wheel bearing, especially with over 200,000 miles on the vehicle and if those are the original bearings. If you were to need both an axle and a wheel bearing at the same time, and on the same side, that’s actually not that bad because the steering knuckle that holds the wheel bearing has to come off anyway to replace the axle. But, backing up here, the very first thing to do is get the issue properly diagnosed so you spend the minimum possible. If you want to obtain a diagnostic, please request a vehicle CV/wheel bearing noise inspection and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : 205/55R17 may be too tall for your vehicle. A couple of good sources to check size compatibility for your vehicle would be tirerack.com or maybe discounttire.com. Sites like Tire Rack specialize in winter tire packages and is a good source for fitment options. I have personally used Bridgestone and Dunlop snow tires and would recommend either. However, it is highly recommended that winter tires be mounted at all 4 corners. Having different tires with different capabilities not only makes the vehicle unstable, it will effect systems like the anti-lock brakes and traction control. Winter tires perform much better than summer or all-season tires do in ice and snow conditions. Having two tires with good winter traction and two with poor traction will have the anti-lock brake system working overtime. Also, sticking with a smaller tire for winter use is advisable. For ice and snow driving, you want the opposite for summer driving. Wide, low profile tires improve warm, dry weather driving. Tall, narrow, tires provide better control on snow and ice. Consider keeping your stock 16 inch wheels for winter use with winter tires mounted on them and maybe a nice set of 17 inch wheels and tires for summer use. I’ve done that with nearly every vehicle I’ve owned whether front, rear, or all-wheel drive.

ANSWER : When you mention a "floating" feeling, the first thing that pops into my mind is that the tire pressure may be low. A low tire makes the car wander as though it doesn’t really know where you’re pointing it. As for the shaking, it may be something you can solve by having the tires balanced, or it may be that the tires are not round and true. Buying used tires is always a roll of the dice. Sometimes you save some money, but other times you have to deal with problems that you did not expect. If you are not sure what to look for when inspecting your tires, YourMechanic can send a technician to your home to inspect your tires.