AC blower making clicking noise.

ANSWER : If the battery is weak and the voltage is dropping to below 9 volts you will get the clicking without the starter turning the motor. Have the battery voltage checked and if battery cannot hold a load then replace it and clean the battery terminals and recheck system to see if it starts.

ANSWER : The noise is the blend door actuator for the a/c. The actuator is very common to go bad internally. The actuator will try to move the blend door to a certain position when you turn on or off the vehicle. They may click or grind and a replacement is needed to repair the problem. Have a qualified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, come inspect out your problem.

ANSWER : Hi, what you’re describing is a fairly common issue with Chevrolet and GM products. It’s most likely the actuator motor for the blend door in the A/C ducts behind the dashboard, especially if the noise seems to originate from somewhere behind the dashboard.

The connectors for the actuator tend to corrode and cause resistance that results in a bad signal to the control for the actuator. The control then continues to drive the motor, which can result in broken teeth in the actuator/blend door’s plastic gears.

There are probably two actuators, one behind the glovebox and one on the driver’s side. If it’s not the actuators themselves, it could be a relay, but the service history of Chevrolets suggests the actuators.

If you need assistance with this, feel free to schedule an appointment with YourMechanic to diagnose the noise you’re hearing firsthand and replace your Impala’s A/C actuators and blend doors as necessary.

ANSWER : The noise you are hearing is one of the HVAC door actuators that control air flow or temperature for the a/c. There are at least 4 of these actuators in your system and one of them is going bad and would need to be replaced. The one that is making the noise It’s hard to specify wxactly which one without checking the system first hand. In order to find the one going bad a mechanic would have to have their hand on each one and turn on the a/c and feel to see the failing actuator. Only then can a complete diagnosis be done. I recommend having a mechanic. like one from YourMechanic, come to you and diagnose your HVAC problem.

ANSWER : The compressor clutch on the vehicle may be caused by an excessive clutch to pulley gap or an excessive resistance in the compressor field coil. A check on the gap in the pulley to clutch can be performed by using a feeler gauge and the coil can be checked using a multimeter. If either is out of specs then repair or replace it as necessary. I’d suggest getting your vehicle inspected by a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to perform these checks and properly diagnose your A/C issue firsthand.

ANSWER : Hi there. Although it is hard to pinpoint the exact source of this noise via a video, it sounds a lot like an exhaust leak. When the exhaust manifold of exhaust tubes age, they are exposed to elements, creating weakness in the metal and eventually will crack or break. It is also possible that this sound is caused by cylinder head hardware that is loose (such as lifters or rocker arms) or not getting enough lubrication. Again, without being there it is impossible to know for certain, but you might want to have a professional mechanic complete a car is making a noise inspection to determine what is causing this issue.

ANSWER : Hey there. You have a bad battery or there is a bad connection in the starting system. The battery should be load tested and the state of charge should be checked with a hydrometer. Your starter requires about ten times more power from the battery than any other system in your car. Even if the headlights and all other electrical components work, it is not a good indicator of the condition of the battery. So a thorough testing of the battery should be performed first.

If the battery checks out, then the problem is a bad connection in the starting circuit. The first test I do, which may be irrelevant since you have already replaced the starter, is to tap on the starter with a hammer while someone is attempting to start it. If it cranks the motor, it needs a starter. It is possible a new starter is bad, so there is still some value in performing this test.

If this doesn’t reveal a bad starter, another simple and test is to attempt to crank the car for up to thirty seconds. Pay attention to smoke or any electrical burning smells that might occur. If you experience one of these, immediately stop and look under the hood for a hot spot in the battery cable connections. Feel both battery posts, the positive and negative battery cables, the ground connection at the frame and the main power connection at the starter. If any of these are hot or warm, it is a bad connection.

If that doesn’t reveal anything, the next step is to use a test light to see if the starter solenoid is getting power from the ignition switch. If it is not, you will need to use a test light to find our where the connection is lost. The suspect parts are the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch (aka the transmission range switch). You will need access to a wiring diagram and a test light for this portion of the testing.

If you should require further assistance, I recommend having a professional technician, like one from YourMechanic, diagnose your starting issue so that this can be repaired.

ANSWER : It sounds like you may be dealing with a few issues. I would start by asking if there is a check engine light on? If there is, then getting the engine control module scanned for faults would be the first step to diagnosing the low power issue. As far as the noise over bumps and when turning, there could be a damaged CV joint or axle shaft, or there could be a loose suspension or steering component. Weak motor mounts could cause a weird noise and shake when going into reverse with your foot on the brake, so it’s possible those have failed as well. I would suggest having a qualified mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, diagnose the noise over bumps and the noise when put in reverse.