Why would my push start not start every time? Could it be the alternator, or did the switch actually go out?

ANSWER : Hi there. It sounds like it could be the starter. However, the switch is definitely a possibility. If you hear a clicking sound, then the switch is operating properly. Are there any messages on the combination meter? If so, that’s good place to start; especially if the key battery has discharged and not being recognized by the smart system. The starter could also be at fault. It’s not uncommon for a starter to fail, even in today’s cars. The clicking noise you are hearing could be the starter trying to engage, but cannot. This could be a worn/faulty starter or it could be as simple as a worn/failed battery. Have the battery tested with a digital battery tester that provides current voltage, cold cranking amps, and state of health. If the battery is healthy and only discharged, have the alternator tested for proper voltage and amperage during both idle and under load. I suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a car does not start inspection.

ANSWER : It sounds like you may have a weak battery, a failing voltage regulator or failing alternator. As you may know, the alternator charges the battery while the engine runs by generating amperage and recharging the battery while the engine turns the alternator pulley. The voltage regulator is a unit that regulates the charging of the battery by the alternator and maintaining a certain amperage while the engine runs. When the alternator is not working properly, this may result in the battery quickly losing charge and the car losing all power. You may also notice a whining sound as a result of the bearings inside the alternator begin to fail. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your charging system.

ANSWER : Hello. Thank you for writing in. There are several reasons your vehicle may only start when jump starting. The first and most common is a build up of resistance that is causing you to need a boost of voltage to get the engine started. This may be due to poor battery cables, a bad ground connection, a poor starter solenoid, and a couple of other issues. The first thing you want to do is perform a visual inspection of the starting system. Make sure there is no corrosion build up in the battery cables. You can also check the resistance across these wires and make sure you have a solid connection between components. You then want to make sure the starter solenoid is doing its job. It is responsible for taking the small amount of electricity sent by the ignition and turning it into a huge electrical charge that is strong enough to push over the engine with the help of some gear ratios in its favor. Do some more testing, and stick to the basics before assuming its something seriously complicated.

ANSWER : Pulleys do go bad because the grease in the pulley bearing dries out, the ball bearings and bearing races get pitted and then the pulley becomes noisy. Sometimes, the pulley will actually seize. However, it will be EASILY evident if a pulley bearing is bad. So, all you need to do is have them PROVE the failure to you. If the pulley turns SMOOTHLY with no resistance and there is no noise, then there is nothing wrong with the pulley. Tensioners combine a pulley with a "tensioning" mechanism. If the pulley on the tensioner is good, to check the tensioning mechanism, just ask the shop personnel how many pounds they are able to measure (using a Gates gauge) as "belt tension" with the tensioner installed. If they can measure an installed belt tension of at least 80 to 110 pounds on the serpentine belt, you are fine. As far as alternator failures, even if all pulleys seized, the serpentine belt snapped and all the accessory drives came to a crashing halt, such would have no effect whatsoever on the mechanical or electrical function of an alternator. Alternators are DRIVEN by the serpentine belt. All that happens when the belt disappears or pulleys seize is the alternator stops turning; there is NO possibility of damage to the alternator. Once you re-apply a new belt, or new pulleys, the accessories start turning again, just like before and the alternator produces current to charge the batteries. As noted, pulleys do wear out…worn pulleys do cause noise but all that is beside the point. Insofar as your concern, you CAN confirm if they are telling the truth by just simply having them PROVE the alleged failure to you. If they cannot prove it, or are unwilling to prove it (don’t buy the "insurance rules don’t allow you in the shop trick), then do not replace the pulleys. In the future, you can save a lot of money by having a repair like this, as well as maintenance, performed on a mobile basis. So, please keep us in mind and if additional concerns arise related to your current issue, please don’t hesitate to inquire further.

ANSWER : It sounds like your starting issues may be linked to a problem with air metering or fuel delivery. A clogged or malfunctioning idle air control valve may show some of the same symptoms you are describing. The idle air control valve can be stuck in a cold start position which may work well if the car has been sitting a few hours, but as the engine warms up there must be a regulation in airflow. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer look at your hard start situation and offer a more personal diagnosis.

ANSWER : Hi There,
The idle air control valve is a small valve on the engine’s intake system that reads the air intake as it comes into the motor. This is controlled by the car’s ECM which uses this information to make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio depending on various inputs such as outside air temperature, intake air temperature, load and various other things. As you accelerate, your car’s engine is receiving a much higher dose of fuel than when at idle and conversely, when you let off the gas pedal, there is a sudden change in this fuel supply as a result of your foot letting off the pedal. When this happens, the job of the idle air control valve is to bring this deceleration down to a slow and smooth idle rather than suddenly cutting off the fuel supply causing the motor to die. When the idle air control valve is not working properly, this cause a disruption in this process resulting in the engine not being able to idle properly. I would recommend having a professional come to your location to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.

ANSWER : Sounds like you have a wiring issue. Most likely a broken wire somewhere in the harness. It could be at any circuit – fuel, ignition, or ECU. Sounds like something that a specialist should take a look at. It might be more cost effective to have one look at it to find the problem rather than replacing parts in hopes of getting the right part replaced. If you would like to have this inspected, a certified technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the stalling issue and can make appropriate repairs.

ANSWER : Although it’s very difficult to diagnose your problem without being there, it looks like you’ve got an ignition cylinder assembly or other electrical problem in the steering column that is causing your Voyager difficulties. There are several individual parts that make up the ignition system, including several safety devices, so it’s best for you to have a mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection.