Why does my car make a loud noise when I turn my front wheels?

ANSWER : A possibility is a faulty ignition switch. If the switch opens after the car starts, the engine will shut off. But, that is just a possibility and a diagnostic would have to be performed to rule that in or out. Be sure you have a fully charged battery that passes a load test. Starters motors can display intermittent operation if they are faulty. With a fully charged battery, if the starter motor does not run that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit (includes the ignition switch) or a problem with the starter motor itself. If there is power to the starter motor and yet it doesn’t run, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter, or there is a big voltage drop anywhere on the circuit to the starter, then the circuit has to be traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, the noise you are hearing from the rear of the vehicle and the feeling your vehicle has while driving, should be looked at sooner than later. The swaying (fish-tail) action, could be a broken sway bar. It could also be a broken shock absorber. These are safety concerns that you’ll want to have addressed soon. I recommend having your vehicle’s noise inspected and repaired by a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, concerning your vehicle’s steering wheel is locked far right and key won’t turn with the front wheels in a forward default position, is somewhat confusing to me. It could be, undo pressure is being applied to the steering wheel lock. You could try, physically moving the left front tire side to side in either direction, to relieve the pressure on the steering wheel lock. It could be, the key you are using has a problem, try another key if available. It could be, the ignition lock cylinder is at fault. I recommend having your vehicle’s can’t turn the key be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for your question. I’d be happy to provide my insight.

This is a common sound when the struts are worn out or when there is separation between the strut nut and the strut mount. I would also suggest checking the ball joints, control arms, tie rods, and sway bar links. Any of these front suspension components have the potential to make this kind of clunking sound when worn out or loose.

If you would like help inspecting your front wheels, consider having an expert automotive technician from YourMechanic come to your home or office to inspect and diagnose this issue for you, and make any repairs as needed.

ANSWER : The steering lock may not be unlocking either due to a faulty ignition lock housing or more commonly as the cars age a faulty spring at the steering wheel on the under side of the column. If the ignition lock housing is the issue the housing can be replaced. It s a bit tricky as the mounting bolt has break off heads and generally need to be driven out with a punch. If the lock is not disengaging because of a faulty spring on the ignition lock many owners have had the spring removed by having it drilled out of the housing. However, removing the spring may permanently disable the steering lock. The last option would be to replace the steering column. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic who can recommend the proper repair for your situation.

ANSWER : A common cause of a noise like that is tire belt (internal) separation, flat spot(s) on tire or other tire defects. If the tires end up being excluded during a diagnostic, the CV axles, wheel bearings, and unfortunately the transmission and clutch have to be considered. The noise on turning is suggestive of a possibly defective outer CV joint but very loose tie rods ends and ball joints can sometimes be implicated. Also, it is possible to have a bad strut bearing, in the strut mount. Keep in mind, a "combination" of faults might be in play here. Your best bet is to request a front end inspection/diagnostic during which the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you insofar as identifying the root cause(s) and estimating the repair for you.

ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.

ANSWER : Hi there – based on the symptoms you describe, I believe your left front wheel bearing is shot. I would recommend having the wheel bearing/hub assembly replaced by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, and repair this problem.