Whilst driving the car will cut out. In the begining it would start immediatetly now if it cuts out it doesnt want to start
My car has 250000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.
I usually install a scan tool and watch the crank signal to see if it changes when the stalling occurs. If it does then either the sensor or the harness has a problem. If the reading is fine then the grounds need to be checked for a loose connections.
If you need to have this repaired, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your starting issue firsthand and repair this.
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One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.
A faulty rail sensor may upset the air fuel ratio and cause the vehicle to experience performance issues such as a decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel efficiency, and in some cases may even experience stalling.
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I usually install a scan tool and watch the crank signal to see if it changes when the stalling occurs. If it does then either the sensor or the harness has a problem. If the reading is fine then the grounds need to be checked for a loose connections.
If you need to have this repaired, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose your starting issue firsthand and repair this.
The GM 3.8l motor has been installed in Buicks, Pontiacs and Chevrolets for decades. Particularly during the 90’s and early 00’s, these motors have used an ignition module with three coils mounted to it. This module is prone to just this type of failure. When it gets too hot, it quits working. When it cools off, it starts again. It can also display intermittent no start conditions. This is a pattern failure on this particular motor. Before I would ever replace the module, I would check for spark and injector pulse. If it just lacks spark, I would check for a crank sensor signal and replace the ignition module.
Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, do a few tests first:
Check fuel pressure. If there is none, check the fuse and the relay.
Check for injector pulse with a noid light. If this is missing, I would suspect a crank sensor. It could be a bad Power Control Module (PCM). (PCM’s are very rare to fail. I have never changed a PCM on one of these cars.)
Check for spark with a spark tester. If it is lacking spark but has injector pulse, suspect the ignition module.
If all these are present, I would take a compression test of all the cylinders. If camshaft timing is off, several of the cylinders will have significantly lower compression. Also, camshaft timing won’t start sometimes then not others; it will either start and run bad or it won’t start at all. It may sound like it is trying to start, but it won’t start.
If all of this sounds to daunting, I recommend booking a car is not starting inspection with YourMechanic
Good luck!
It sounds like you are describing the symptoms of a failing throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor monitors the throttle position of the throttle plate inside the throttle body in relation to your foot position on the gas pedal. Based upon the inputs from the sensor reading your foot’s position on the pedal, the ECU then makes the direction to supply more or less fuel to the motor. When this sensor is not working properly, this can cause intermittent responses when pressing the gas pedal. I would suggest having a professional from Your Mechanic come to you home to diagnose and inspect your vehicle.