Vehicle at running temp, turn on heat, no heat – stomp on gas, there is heat – ??? 2004 Jeep Liberty

ANSWER : Hello – regarding your lack of heater function unless the engine is revved up a bit, you have a coolant flow issue. This could be caused by a worn water pump (engine might be running warmer than normal?), a partially blocked heater control valve (adjustment problem or failed heater control switch), or clogged cooling system that simply has poor flow. I would recommend an inspection of the heater & cooling system by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Hi there. The engine always at operating temperature leads me to believe, the thermostat is not the cause, for no heat inside the vehicle. There are several possibilities for no heat inside, the heater control valve is malfunctioning, the heater core is restricted, the temperature blend door actuator is malfunctioning. Replacing components without diagnoses, can be expensive and time consuming without resolution. I recommend having your vehicle’s inoperative heater be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : The fuel pump in the fuel tank is designed to have low pressure and high volume to feed the front fuel pump the right amount fuel. The front fuel pump supplies the engine with high pressure to the engine.

When you do not hear the pump run then the fuel pump is bad and should be replaced along with the relay. You should not have to replace the in tank pump if it is running. I’d suggest replacing the fuel filter as well.

I’d suggest getting this inspected by a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to diagnose your stalling issue and make the necessary repairs.

ANSWER : Hello – when you say that the lights dim while trying to start the engine, I suspect that the battery may not be strong enough to spin the engine fast enough in low temperatures to catch and run. With your advanced mileage, cylinder compression is probably a bit lower than originally – and may not be compressing the air/fuel mix enough to start. Weak or corroded battery connections can also contribute to this problem. I would recommend an engine start inspection by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.

ANSWER : Check for diagnostic trouble codes. If no codes have been stored, you can consider the typical causes for immediate stalling which are a faulty mass airflow sensor, faulty engine coolant temperature switch/sensor (typically at cold start only), faulty camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, worn spark plugs, wires or defective ignition coil(s), inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors, faulty fuel pump or pump circuit), contaminated or old gasoline, defective throttle position sensor, faulty idle air control valve, leaks in the EGR system, intake vacuum leaks, and so forth. If you request an engine stalling diagnostic the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : When looking into this problem that you have I came across a possible fault with the power train control module (PCM) causing different throttle sensor codes. A technical service bulletin identified the part number and date ranges for your PCM. Another possible cause is a fault with the instrument’s cluster wiring or an issue with the cluster itself. The vehicle will need to be scanned and tested to pinpoint which area to check. You may just have fuel injectors that need to be cleaned causing the misfire. I’d suggest getting some assistance from a certified technician who can help you diagnose your rough idle and make the necessary repairs to your vehicle.

ANSWER : Hi there. From the description you have provided, leads me to believe, there may be air trapped in the cooling system. Bleeding the cooling system can be difficult. A cooling system flush could resolve this issue. The white-greyish smoke cold, may just be condensation in the exhaust, being the smoke goes away engine warm. Continued driving with a low cooling system, could result in catastrophic and expensive repairs. I recommend having your vehicle’s erratic temperature gauge and white-greyish exhaust smoke be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.

ANSWER : Hi there. Thanks for contacting us today. First thing I’d recommend is to call a towing service to have them bring your car home; if you already haven’t done so as I believe your issue with the Sebring is mechanical and will need to be diagnosed before repairs are recommended. Usually when this happens, it’s caused by a fuel pump that breaks and will require replacement. However, it could be related to a different fuel system or ignition system component. Either way, we can help you by having one of our professional mobile mechanics come to your location and complete a car is hard to start inspection first. This will allow them to pinpoint the problem and recommend or complete the right repairs. You can set up that appointment by clicking this link.