There may be a restriction in the power steering high pressure line causing an excessively high amount of pressure in the line and the pump. If the belt tensioner for the power steering belt is a manual tensioner that can be adjusted, the tension may be too tight causing a high load on the bearings at the power steering pump drive shaft. You can try having the power steering system flushed to see if this will clear any blockages and be sure to use an OEM quality power steering pump as some aftermarket components are not manufactured as well as the originals. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer inspection of the vehicle in order to offer a more personal diagnosis if your power steering concerns.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
These are some common causes of a power steering pump failure: Contaminated steering fluid. Low power steering fluid levels. A worn-out or broken drive belt (power steering belt)
Age and constant usage are the two biggest contributing factors to a power steering fluid leak. As the supply and pressure hoses start to age, they may develop holes through which the fluid can leak. Likewise, the O-rings and seals gradually lose their flexibility as your mileage increases.
There are actually two seals here. The outer seal is really just a dust cover, and it`s designed to prevent dirt, dust and debris from damaging the inner seal. The inner one is the actual power steering input shaft seal. Its job is to keep fluid in the system, while preventing contaminants from entering.
How often does a power steering pump need to be replaced? Most vehicle`s power steering system will last for 100,000 to 150,000 miles before a pump replacement is warranted.
Q: Is power steering stop leak bad for your car? As long as you choose a power steering stop leak product that`s suitable for your car and its power steering system, it`s perfectly safe to use. Damage and potential problems only happen when you choose an incompatible product.
There are two seals that are used to make sure that dust does not enter while the power steering fluid is retained. The first seal is, quite literally, a dust cover. The second seal is the input shaft seal. This seal is responsible for preventing power steering fluid from leaking.
While your power steering system could start to leak at the connection points or through cracks in the flexible rubber hoses and lines, it is more likely that it will start to leak from one of the seals on your rack and pinion.
Most rack and pinion leaks will require the replacement of the entire rack and pinion assembly even if most of it works just fine. The good news is you do have another alternative to an expensive replacement. You can simply and quickly restore the seals in your rack and pinion without ever removing it.
Pressure capacity simply refers to the maximum pressure the power steering pump is allowed to build. Most factory pumps have a pressure capacity set to around 1200 psi.
The power steering pump`s maximum pressure should be set at a minimum of 200 psi above the system operating pressures. For example, if the system`s requirements are a 1000 psi, then the pump`s maximum pressure should be set at 1200 psi or above.
One of the most common problems power steering systems have is leaks. The high pressure of the system combined with the soft hoses carrying the fluid makes it relatively susceptible to leaks. A low fluid level can cause a whining power steering pump and even a loss of fluid pressure and a loss of steering assistance.
Low power steering fluid is one of the most common issues that you`ll have as a driver. Your car will need its power steering fluid topped-up every once in a while, to ensure that the hydraulic power steering system continues to function smoothly.
For best protection against pump wear and best performance in temperature extremes, use synthetic power steering fluid. Synthetics promote formation of a strong fluid film to prevent wear.
The answer to this question is yes, radiator sealants really do work. However, they are not a miracle solution, and are only good for a temporary fix. Even so-called “permanent” sealants will only last for months, not years. A good radiator sealant–also called a stop-leak–can seal all kinds of cooling system leaks.
Power steering leaks: Most power steering leaks occur at the lines and connectors, so continued vibration and wear can cause them to fail down the road. You can expect tens of thousands of miles from one treatment of Bar`s Leaks power steering repair solutions in most cases.
Pump seals need lubrication around the shaft to prevent friction and heat. When a pump is run dry, it can quickly result in heat cracks or blisters, and melted or burned seals. These damaged pump seals leak fluid due to pressure, and they can even shatter if the right conditions are met.
Power steering systems have two hoses: a high-pressure hose and a low-pressure hose.
The power steering pump operates by hydraulics, and anything that operates by hydraulics can easily be affected if air gets into the system. Any air that gets into the power-steering system will be compressed by the pump and will result in noise and difficulty steering.
Yes, you can remove the pump. However, to do so properly and safely would be a lot more expensive than just replacing the damn thing. The pump can be fixed, I guarantee it. If your problem is leakage, you just need new seals, and maybe new bearings.
Just as important, the fluid attracts moisture, and since moisture/water has different (less effective) properties than steering fluid, with time the fluid delivers decreased power through the system. On top of that, water is corrosive and can damage steering components over time.
When driving without power steering fluid is prolonged, damage to the steering pump is inevitable. As a result, the pump vanes that produce heat is left with no lubrication, fuses down, and increases the risk of damaging the drive belt. With no power steering fluid, the shaft and rack seal will also break down.
Fluid leaks can also occur from a faulty seal in the pump or faulty seals in the steering rack or gear box. A leaking seal might be temporarily fixed by using a seal-swelling fluid additive, but this probably will not be a lasting fix.
As miles accumulate and years pass, the rubber within the seal has a tendency to shrink up and/or crack, leading to a fluid leak. An unattended leak can eventually reduce lubricant level within the differential enough that internal damage can occur.
If you notice your differential has low fluid, chances are it is leaking from the pinion seal. This needs to be fixed in a timely manner because as the fluid levels drop, the gears will wear down as the friction increases. Without a proper working differential, your vehicle will not be able to be driven.
Not getting power to the fuel pump and the secondary air injection pump fuse keeps blowing
ANSWER : There are quite a few reports of PCM (Powertrain Control Module, AKA computer) failures causing your problem, but before you go replacing the PCM, do some more pinpoint tests. This may require you to find a wiring diagram of all the wires coming from the PCM.
The first thing I would do is to connect a scanner to the car and see if you can communicate with the PCM. As a technician, I have access to communities of technicians where repeat failures are reported. In these reports, it is most common when the PCM fails in this fashion, that you will not have PCM communication. If you do have communication and the Check Engine Light turns on with the key on, I would be leaning away from the PCM being the problem.
However, this is by no means conclusive. You could be correct in your thoughts about a wiring problem mid vehicle. On most GM vehicles, there is a connector along the frame rail for the wiring harness that services the fuel module in the tank. This has problems with corrosion because it sits under the vehicle exposed to the elements. But why am I doubtful of this, and this will require you to confirm where the power starts and stops, is you stated you didn’t have power from the fuse box. This would be before this connector and the fuel pump. If this is the case, I wouldn’t be thinking of a wiring problem mid vehicle anymore.
I am wondering if you confirmed the fuse box was getting power? It is a very common problem that when we move wiring we inadvertently move the damaged wiring and fix the problem for the short term. You may have done this when replacing the fuse box. Not to mention you seem to have an intermittent failure on your hands. This compounds the process quite a bit.
I’m not sure how you are confirming you have power at the various points, but I highly recommend a test light over a multi-meter. A test light draws current and a multi-meter does not. There can be voltage present but not a good enough connection to carry current. This is a very important distinction when you are battling bad connections. The problem with a test light though, is knowing when it shouldn’t be used. Some test lights draw too much current and can damage computer modules. Even us technicians perform tests on modules at our own risk.
The best way to test a relay is to simply use a jumper wire to bypass them. If I suspect there is a problem with the power supply to the fuel pump, this is the first thing I do. This way I can be sure it isn’t the relay or the PCM that turns the relay on. If the fuel pump does not run, use the before mentioned test light to find where the power stops. This requires you to methodically track the wire back to the fuel pump. I usually start at the central connector, if it has one. Not all of them do. I go directly to the pump if I can, but this is often not easy to access without dropping the fuel tank down. If you successfully confirm power to the pump, it maybe a bad ground, in which case the easiest way to confirm this is to add a ground yourself.
If this circuit checks out good, a few other things to check are power and ground to the PCM. Locate the wire from the PCM that powers the fuel pump relay. This can be done at the relay connector while you are testing the fuel pump circuit without the relay. When you turn the key on, on of the four terminals should receive power from the PCM for a few seconds. It will turn off after a couple of seconds if the PCM doesn’t see a signal that the motor is running. This is normal operation.
As for the air pump, I wouldn’t think this is an indication of the problem unless this occurred at the exact same time as the fuel pump failure. If so, I would suspect a wiring harness is shorting to ground somewhere. If they didn’t occur at the same time, this is most likely a separate issue.
The challenge you have here is isolating each part of the system. The PCM, the fuel pump relay, or a wiring issue. The PCM is actually fairly easy to check. Is the Check Engine Light on with key on and does it communicate with a scanner? Then follow the fuel pump relay test I outlined above. If it is a bad connection somewhere in the system, you will need a good wiring diagram and a well thought out plan to isolate where the problem is. This can be the most difficult to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent. Find a wiring diagram and study it carefully. If you’d like help, you can have a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect your car’s loss of power and make the correct repairs.
Good luck. I hope I have been of assistance.
