The car suddenly couldn’t start, it cranks well
It is also possible that your ignition coil may have failed preventing any of the spark plugs from firing. I would recommend having your ignition system inspected as well. Ensure that your starting issue is diagnosed professionally as it relates to flammable substances and high voltage electricity. Once the source of the issue has been located, have the parts replaced as necessary in order to maintain the vehicle.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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Brake rotor disks that aren`t flat can create squeaky brakes, whereas a worn-out rotor disc will often make a scraping sound. You`ll also be able to feel a warped rotor through your steering wheel.
When your alternator is starting to wear out it will often make a grinding noise. This is because modern alternators have a decoupler pulley system designed to help you save on fuel, but can make a grinding noise when they are not working properly.
If the grinding noise comes when you shift, it`s likely due to a worn clutch. Grinding when you turn a corner could be due to a CV joint that needs to be replaced or another suspension issue. And if you notice a grinding noise when you brake, your brake pads may be completely worn down to the metal.
A dying battery can`t provide enough power to start the car, creating continuous clicking sounds. Low battery voltage can also cause the starter motor to turn slower than usual, resulting in a grinding noise.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
If the key is stuck in the start position, this is a ignition lock cylinder issue and the reason the starter continues to turn the motor over. If the starter is turning but the motor is not, then the starter is likely the problem. Either that or the teeth on the flex plate are all gone. This would require removing the transmission to repair.
If the car runs intermittently, this can be a big challenge. And it also means the starting system is working. It will need to be diagnosed when it is failing. A working car cannot be diagnosed because there is nothing wrong. Where you park your car should not have any affect. It certainly could be a wiring problem. Wiring problems hide really well and can happen anywhere in the miles of wires that are in your car. Isolating the system that is failing is really important here. At the moment I am unsure which system is failing. Starter system, ignition lock cylinder and or ignition switch electrical or something with the engine control system.
When the car is failing, you need to check for spark and fuel pressure. If neither is present, this is a clue. Usually the crank sensor will do this. Does your car have a tachometer? If so, does it move at all when cranking. This is a clue whether or not the cam and or crank sensor is working. Is there a Check Engine Light on with the key on? If there is a Check Engine Light, the code or codes can be used for specific diagnosis.
All of these concerns will send you down a diagnostic path. Be sure not to confuse yourself by misinterpreting multiple system failures. If the key does stick in the start position, this would be the first problem to solve. After that, does the motor actually turn when the starter turns? After that, the question of "Why won’t it start?" is first answered by finding what the motor is lacking. Fuel, spark etc… Good luck.
If you need assistance with these checks, contact a certified mechanic who has the tools and experience needed to properly diagnose this starting issue with your car.
Usually this issue is cased by low cranking amps inside the battery. If you’ve recently had the battery replaced, it’s possible that an electrical component that makes up the charging system might be damaged or faulty. It’s also quite possible that the main electrical relay or the starter relay is giving you fits. To know for certain what the exact issue might be on your 1989 Toyota Camry, you should have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection, so they can pinpoint the source of your issues and recommend the right repairs.
At that point, it will use other methods to determine the fuel rate, such as pre-programmed fuel maps, throttle position, etc. I would suggest replacing the MAP sensor and retesting. If you would like to have it checked first, a certified technician from YourMechanic will be able to scan your vehicle and test components to determine the root cause of your starting issue before making a repair.
What you are describing sounds like an ignition coil that may be failing. Ignition coils are prone to this type of erratic functioning or heat cycling when they are beginning to fail due to the temperature fluctuations under the hood which ultimately cause them to shut down causing the car to only run after cooling down for 30-40 minutes. Ignition coils are coated with a varnish-like insulation that becomes brittle over time after being stretched then contracted repeatedly The insulation develops small fractures that open when heated and close when cooled. When open, they allow shorting of coil windings and decrease or eliminate the coil’s ability to function. This process will repeat itself continuously until the coil ultimately fails completely and must be replaced. I would recommend having a professional from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and inspect your ignition system.
Sometimes when you have problems starting an engine initially it is caused by a restriction in fuel flow; caused either by clogged fuel injectors or the throttle body that needs to be cleaned. Once the fuel starts to flow and engine warms up, it’s much easier to start. However, it could also be an air filter, EGR valve or other components that causes this issue as well, which is why it’s best to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a car is hard to start inspection so they can pinpoint the source of this issue.
