Rear brake squealing noise goes off when brakes applied.

ANSWER : Hey there. If the noise was not there before you replaced the brake pads on your 2014 Audi A4, you might want to try replacing the caliper clips and using a good quality brake lube anywhere the pads make contact with the caliper, caliper piston, and or bracket. If you need to have this looked at, an expert from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the squealing noise and perform the appropriate repair.

ANSWER : I would suggest trying to disconnect and reconnect the wiring to the rear lights. I have seen these older Toyota vehicles rear lighting short out on the lights themselves due to the way the light circuit was made on the lamp housing. Look at the housing circuit on the light to see if one is touching another, and that could tell you why it is malfunctioning. There could also be a problem with the brake light switch. If you are not comfortable dealing with wires, I recommend getting in touch with a certified mechanic who can look at your brake light issue for you to see what’s going on.

ANSWER : The brake pedal is working to stop the vehicle, but there may be air in the controller unit causing the ABS brakes to not function. I recommend bleeding the brake system from the farthest location from the master cylinder to the master cylinder including the ABS unit. If the brakes are still spongy after a full bleed, then the controller will need to be replaced. If you need further assistance with your brake pedal being spongy, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : It sounds like you need to check your front brakes. Most of the braking is done with the front brakes, therefore they tend to wear out more quickly than the rear brakes. If you let it go too long, you will need to replace the rotors as well. Have the brakes checked ASAP as this is also a safety concern for you and others on the road. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic, inspect your braking system to determine the exact cause of your concern.

ANSWER : You will have to bleed the brakes from the farthest location all the way to the master cylinder. There is still air in the lines causing the issue. Check the vibrations on the vehicle to see if the engine mounts are damaged or if the brakes are not releasing causing the engine to run harder than normal to overcome the braking force. If you need further assistance with your vehicle’s brake system, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. These situations are understandably questionable. The service providers at a lot of common oil changing and tire repair centers will quote you for a variety of things that can be updated. This does not always mean you are in dire need for more repairs. If braking seems to be harder, spongy, or takes longer, then you have reason to be concerned. Otherwise, you should check the amount of brake pad material left on the calipers. This can be visually inspected without too much trouble. Remove the wheel and physically measure the amount left, compare them to your vehicle specifications. It is a little early to worry about brake fluid or the rotors. However if the brake fluid is low, the rotors are warped from a hard stop, or there are obvious issues you should look into the system further. Only further inspection will confirm or deny the recommendations. For a second inspection, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.

ANSWER : Hi. I will help you with this issue you are having with your 2001 Durango. Unless you bled the master cylinder, it is possible there is still air in the system. If you car is equipped with ABS, air could have also gotten trapped in the ABS modulator. If ABS equipped, a bi-directional scan tool would be essential to manually activate the ABS system to clear air from that segment of the lines while you are bleeding the system. It is also possible that in all of this work somehow the proportioning valve has been affected causing the desired pressure differential, front versus back, to get out of spec. Using a 2,500 PSI gauge, you can check the pressures at each wheel and that will definitely give you a clue as to which brake circuit is the issue (or both), whether the proportioning valve is working properly and whether the line pressures at each wheel are within spec. Should you need a second opinion, by all means feel free to contact YourMechanic for assistance and we will diagnose and repair the issue for you.

ANSWER : Hello. It is not in the ABS, but may be the proportional valve not giving the correct pressure split front to the rear. The vehicle never had enough pressure for the rear brakes. Have the rear shoes adjusted properly if you have drum brakes. You should check to see if there is an updated part to replace the old one. If you would like to have this done, a certified technician from YourMechanic can inspect the brake system and let you know what repairs are needed.