Rattling noise while driving and idling at around 5500 RPM

My car has a mileage of approximately 130,000 miles. The car is well maintained. However, there is this rattling noise that is noticeable half the time I drive the car and happens sporadically. The rattling is similar to the sound of the exhaust manifold. It happens only around 5500 RPM during idling or driving, but it disappears in neutral, park as well as with the increase of RPM. What should I check first? Thanks.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
I would recommend first making sure that an exhaust heat shield is not the issue. This can be done by having a professional get under your vehicle and check for any loose parts on your exhaust system. Replace any faulty exhaust parts as necessary to help resolve this issue.

If the exhaust system has no issues, I would recommend having a professional remove your valve covers in order to check that all the valve train bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specification. It is possible for internal engine bolts to loosen over time causing excess play between valve train parts. This isn’t supposed to happen but it can.

I’d recommend having the vehicle inspected by a certified technician, they will be able to diagnose the source of the rattling noise and make the necessary repairs to get your car running normally once again.

How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?

Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :

Rust and corrosion also cause the deterioration of the exhaust system itself, which can cause rattles. In instances like this, the muffler or tailpipe probably needs to be replaced. Sometimes, an exhaust system clamp gets loose, creating a rattle. Another cause of rattles under the car is a failing catalytic converter.
If your engine has low oil pressure, engine rattling at idle might be present when the engine gets hot. It`s because the oil is thinner and doesn`t coat parts as well. Low oil pressure usually means a complete engine job. Either a replacement engine or an engine rebuild – either way, it`s going to cost you big money.
Once you notice extra noise in neutral, you could have low transmission fluid or worn-out bearings or gear teeth. While you can take a look at your transmission fluid to see if that could be the culprit, it`s best to have a mechanic diagnose the underlying problem and carry out any necessary repairs.
The diesel engine ticking noise could be a sign of low oil level that causes the valvetrain components to not get proper lubrication. Check your oil level immediately and if it`s low, you must service your car. Another culprit causing this noise could be a faulty lifter or a bad connecting rod.
Loud idling is usually caused by issues with cylinder compression. When there are problems with cylinder compression, you get an uneven fuel-air ratio. As a result, combustion becomes unusual. Having higher pressure inside the cylinder will result in loud idling noise.
A car can make a rattling noise when accelerating because of a loose exhaust system, worn-out suspension, a poorly lubricated transmission, loose engine or transmission mounts, and worn-out heat sinks. Fixes include replacing faulty parts, tightening loose ones, and topping up the concerned fluids.
What does a bad catalytic converter sound like? Often, a clogged catalytic converter sounds like a rattling noise is coming from under your vehicle and engine when you`re starting, idling or driving. Excess heat or damage in the converter can break apart the honeycomb materials, resulting in the rattling noise.
The torque converter housing is mechanically attached to the engine`s crankshaft causing the pump to operate whenever the engine is running. It`s why a worn or faulty pump makes a whining noise in all gears, including park and neutral.
It sounds like a light knocking or growling sound. Gear rattle is an audible noise transmitted from the impacts between the transmission gear teeth. A vehicle engine`s torsional vibrations (momentary angular acceleration) pass through a transmission causing the separation and resulting impact of the gear teeth.
Because of the extremely fine tolerances and super-high temperatures in these systems, the injectors often stick because of inherently low lubricity of the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel fuel. This condition causes “Injector Rattle”.
When your engine is lubricated properly with fresh oil, it should run fairly quietly. As the oil ages and it loses its ability to lubricate the components, the parts will start to move harder against one another causing friction and grinding. These rattling, rumbling, and knocking noises will be hard to miss.
Knocking occurs when fuel burns unevenly in your engine`s cylinders. When cylinders have the correct balance of air and fuel, fuel will burn in small, regulated pockets instead of all at once. (Think sparklers, not fireworks.)
You usually hear this noise when accelerating the vehicle. Most people call this a pinging or rattling sound. This noise is caused by an air/fuel mixture in the engine cylinder being ignited prematurely by the heat of compression as the piston is moving up on the compression stroke.
If the heat shield becomes loose due to poor hardware or rust damage, it will cause the heat shield to vibrate and produce a rattling sound. The sound will be most prominent at lower engine speeds and may change in pitch or tone as your speed changes.
How to fix it? Cleaning or replacing the fuel filter and adding a fuel injector cleaning treatment to the fuel tank should take care of clogged fuel injectors. If the rough idle persists, it`s time to take your car to an auto repair shop.
An engine has a lot of moving parts, and a car making loud noise when accelerating could indicate engine problems. For instance, worn valves can make a clicking noise that`s more noticeable the faster a vehicle moves. Bearings, which let the cam and crankshaft spin, can also be noisy when they start to fail.
A loud noise coming from your vehicle when you accelerate, particularly one that sounds similar to a lawn mower is most likely due to an exhaust system leak.
If a car vibrates it can mean a lot of different things, but one of the most common causes is an exhaust leak. You will often feel a small constant vibration while driving that will get worse as you accelerate. A vibration due to a small exhaust leak can often be felt in the steering wheel or the gas pedal.
Driving with A Failed Catalytic Converter

If you`re noticing slow powertrain performance, reduced acceleration, a smell of rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust, dark exhaust smoke, or extreme heat from under the vehicle, these are symptoms of a clogged Catalytic Converter, and it should be replaced quickly.

Odd sounds are a symptom of a bad torque converter

Rattling is one sound you want to be aware of. If you hear odd rattling sounds when you accelerate, this might be a symptom of a bad torque converter. The same can be true of whirring noises.

This noise sounds like a rattle or whine coming from the gear box, and it`s commonly referred to as “gear rollover noise” or “gear rattle.” While it may seem counter-intuitive, this noise is not a symptom of a problem. The noise is a natural consequence of the vehicle design.
Typically, a car delivers a subtle rumble when at idle. If you notice that the sound has gone from low to a rough and unpleasant noise, it may be a sign of bad fuel injectors. That occurs when particles build up on the injector nozzles, thus affecting the amount of spray and atomization of fuel.
Dirty fuel injectors can lead to a ticking noise in the engine because they can lead to misfires producing a ticking noise.

Relevant Questions and Answers :

the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue

Rattling noise while driving and idling at around 5500 RPM
ANSWER : I would recommend first making sure that an exhaust heat shield is not the issue. This can be done by having a professional get under your vehicle and check for any loose parts on your exhaust system. Replace any faulty exhaust parts as necessary to help resolve this issue.

If the exhaust system has no issues, I would recommend having a professional remove your valve covers in order to check that all the valve train bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specification. It is possible for internal engine bolts to loosen over time causing excess play between valve train parts. This isn’t supposed to happen but it can.

I’d recommend having the vehicle inspected by a certified technician, they will be able to diagnose the source of the rattling noise and make the necessary repairs to get your car running normally once again.

I hear a rattling noise when my truck is parked. But when I drive it the noise stops. It sounds like a metal ball is rattling around.
ANSWER : Often, some exhaust components like heat shields or hangers may rust or become loose and rattle over time and is pretty common for the type of sound you’re describing. If you are not experiencing any drivability concerns, the rattle may be from something small. The best thing to do would be to have an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic take a close look around the vehicle under the conditions that makes the noise the most prominent so the technician may offer a more personal diagnosis.

Idles between 500rpm and 1300 rpm. Main concern is low rpm. Belt or pulley chirping mainly at low rpm Drives perfect but Idles bad
ANSWER : Hello. From what you describe it would appear that your vehicle may have more than one issue.

Belt chirping is usually caused by a worn belt or tensioner. If either component wears out the belt may loosen and chirp when the engine is started, or cold.

The low rpm low quality idle can be caused by a few different things. I would look at the idle air control valve, as that is the component that maintains the vehicle idle, and at any vacuum hoses that may be cracked or damaged, and possibly leaking. This is more likely for older or high mileage vehicles.

If you’re unable to pinpoint the issue yourself, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians will be able to come to your home or office to diagnose your starting issue firsthand and make the necessary repair to your car.

Rattling noise upon starting and then louder rattling at idle if load is placed on engine such as A/C
ANSWER : Hi there. Given your mileage and your maintenance of the idler pulley, your problem is likely worn/weak hydraulic lifters (or other valve train wear) or the timing gear set. Starting the engine briefly (less than 30 seconds) without the serpentine belt attached, will eliminate noises from all accessories if the problem is with one of them. I would recommend having the engine inspected in person by a professional so that the rattling noise can be diagnosed and properly corrected.

After driving awhile, when idling, RPM drops below 500 & car stalls. Happens rarely but RPM fluctuates, and drops suddenly.
ANSWER : If you are having a stalling problem then you may have a computer code stored in memory. I suggest having the computer scanned to see if there is any codes stored and diagnose them as needed. The intake hose and air filter should be inspected for leaks in the hoses and dirty or leaking air filters. If the air filter is dirty or leaking then have the mass air sensor cleaned. If you still need help, have a mechanic diagnose the stalling issue for you and let you know exactly what repairs should be done.

I’m hearing a clicking noise while the car idles in Drive, as the engine idles high.
ANSWER : You may be hearing a solenoid for the vapor purge control system. This would be normal if it is a ticking noise that sounds like a clock ticking only when you give it a little gas and goes away when you let off the gas.

If you think it is something other than this, then have a mechanic inspect the noise for a proper diagnosis.

Replaced IAC valve. Now when I start the car it idles around 1500 rpm in park and neutral. Runs great while in drive and idles at
ANSWER : After the IAC valve is replaced you will need to relearn the engine idle again. Disconnect the battery for a couple minutes and then restart the vehicle and warm the engine at 1500 rpm and then let idle for two minutes and then put in gear with no accessories on and idle two minutes and then put a/c on and put blower on medium speed and let idle two minutes. The engine idle should be relearned now.

Why is my car making this rattling noise?
ANSWER : Hi there. The rattling noise could be the drive belt or pulley that is loose when not under a load. When turning the wheels or on highway driving conditions, the noise may not be there for the engine is under a load. Try turning on the air conditioner and see if the noise goes away. If so, then the tensioner could have a weak spring.

Billing question was sent to CS for the cost of diagnosing a rattling noise on the engine and the cost of replacing the parts after the diagnosis of a 2000 Toyota Corolla with a L4-1.8L engine.