Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
After shifting into drive and pushing down on accelorator hear the ratcheting sound I believe from left front wheel area. Sound always startles me to the point I immediately let up on gas. I press down again on pedal and sound is gone and drives as usual. This does not happen all the time but when it does it seems to occur after shiting out of park or reverse into drive and is much more likely to happen as I make a hard left turn especially as I attempt to go up a steeper grade. Could this be a bad CVC joint and would that be covered under the GM power-train warranty? Thanks a ton for your a
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The noise is from within the transmission. This vehicle has had many noted complaints for various problems with these transmissions. I would recommend having a dealer check the transmission out since you are under warranty.
However, if you’d like a second opinion on this, consider YourMechanic. A certified mobile technician can come to you and diagnose the sound in person.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
The most common reasons a Chevrolet Impala has a rattling noise are the ball joints, struts or strut mount, or a problem with the sway bar links.
It`s a type of car problem that`s not hard to notice. 2013 Chevrolet Impala transmission problems could include shifting delays, grinding or jumping during acceleration, the car shaking on the road, or a burning smell or whistling sounds coming from under the hood.
Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine`s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.
A rattling noise in that area can be a number of things including bad struts, timing chain issue, or bent suspension components. You should have the front suspension sway bar bushings or link arms inspected for loose or worn components and repaired as needed.
A Rattling Noise from the Engine When Accelerating
Noises coming from the engine when you are pushing on the gas could be caused by a loose or weak timing belt, chain tensioner, cracked flywheel, or a broken flexplate. These issues will only get worse over time, not better.
Many Impala drivers report problems with the solenoids inside the transmission. Solenoids are electric-powered valves that control how much transmission fluid can flow into the transmission.
Dirty Air Filters
The air filter functions to prevent dirt and debris in the air from entering the engine. If it`s dirty, it could restrict airflow to the engine, thus reducing the amount of oxygen that the engine gets. This causes an uneven oxygen-to-fuel ratio in the engine which leads to misfiring and car jerking.
Trouble accelerating can come from a few different engine issues. These include, but are not limited to, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, and restricted airflow. A problem with the mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, or engine speed sensor can also cause a car to have difficulty picking up speed.
The rattling noise means that something isn`t right with the way your wheels are attached to the car. For example, a lug nut may have come loose and started rattling as the wheel turned around. Have your tires and wheels checked as soon as possible.
The most common and most easily identifiable symptom of a bad wheel bearing is an audible one. If you notice a grinding or grating noise coming from your wheel or tire, take note that this is very likely caused by a bad wheel bearing—especially if the noise gets louder as the vehicle accelerates.
You usually hear this noise when accelerating the vehicle. Most people call this a pinging or rattling sound. This noise is caused by an air/fuel mixture in the engine cylinder being ignited prematurely by the heat of compression as the piston is moving up on the compression stroke.
A well-maintained 2013 Chevy Impala should last around 250,000 miles, which is about 50,000 miles less than the top-rated Toyota Avalon. Regular annual maintenance costs are higher than average, according to data from Repair Pal, at $602 per year.
How many miles the transmission of a Chevy Impala can last is dependent on the type of transmission that goes in your car. On average, the transmission often lasts up to 160,000 miles.
GM`s number for this recall is 14299. Summary: This defect can affect the safe operation of the airbag system. Until this recall is performed, customers should remove all items from their key rings, leaving only the ignition key.
The manufacturer`s maintenance schedule for many automatic transmissions doesn`t call for fresh fluid until 100,000 miles or, with some Ford transmissions, even 150,000 miles. A lot of mechanics say that is too long and that it should be done at least every 50,000 miles.
The cost of a new 2013 Chevrolet Impala transmission could be over $3,500 depending on the vehicle, nonetheless, transmission services such as fluid changes and a transmission fluid flush are greatly less costly, in some cases costing less than $150.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor measures vehicle speed. When it fails the transmission can stop shifting or shift late and harsh. A bad VSS may also inhibit overdrive and the converter clutch.
The faulty transmission pressure control solenoid is the most commonly reported problem among Impala owners. According to RepairPal, 1,417 drivers have reported the issue, which usually affects the Chevrolet model at around 117,000 miles.
The most common reasons a Chevrolet Impala engine makes a ticking noise are low oil level or pressure, an issue with the ignition system, or an exhaust leak.
Different and Strange Noises
If you begin to hear noises such as popping or coughing coming from the engine, it is a sign that your filter is dirty. Another symptom could be if you begin to feel your vehicle vibrate. This could also be a sign that your air filter is damaging your spark plugs.
Yes, it can! In this Maintenance Minute, Andrew Markel talks about how and why rough transmission shifts can be caused by the air filter and what some of the likely culprits are.
A car that feels dragging may be due to worn tires, low tire pressure, or a problem with the brakes. A clogged fuel filter, dirty air filter, or oxygen sensor can also cause a car to feel dragging. Fuel injectors, spark plugs, and the catalytic converter can also cause a car to feel dragging.
If you`re hearing this noise, the issue may be a bad wheel bearing. To confirm it, change the speed of the vehicle. If the noise becomes worse the faster you drive, then it`s almost certainly a bad wheel bearing. If the noise remains the same, then the issue may be the tires instead.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
ANSWER : The noise is from within the transmission. This vehicle has had many noted complaints for various problems with these transmissions. I would recommend having a dealer check the transmission out since you are under warranty.
However, if you’d like a second opinion on this, consider YourMechanic. A certified mobile technician can come to you and diagnose the sound in person.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
Can front wheel drive car engine power rear wheel drive
ANSWER : Anything is possible with enough engineering. The changes you are looking at would take major structural changes and would definitely not be an easy job. You could possibly consult a manufacturing engineer to get more details on how this could actually be carried out and whether it would be feasible.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
Sudden play & random tugging in steering wheel. Hear clicking from steering wheel & front left tire both while driving straight.
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Checking the brakes was a great place to start. At this point the first thing we need to find out is if symptoms happen always, or only when driving over bumpy roads. If you feel it only when going over bumps, you want to check the suspension. If the suspension is not up to par on the vehicle, you will feel and fight those forces in the steering wheel. You can perform a bounce test, and do a visual inspection to see if the suspension shows any signs of leakage or damage. This would include the ball joints. If the suspension seems to be okay, you want to turn your attention to the rack and pinion. For more help with diagnostics and resolving the issue, contact our service department.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
my car is making a knocking sound on the left front wheel when driving on bumpy road. I changed wheel bearing and my mechanic cant
ANSWER : A banging or rattling over bumps can be caused by several different suspension components. A worn strut can make noises as can the upper strut mount. The strut mount allows the strut assembly to turn and move up and down. If the strut mount is worn, it can allow the strut assembly to rattle or bang over bumps. Stabilizer bar end links or bushings can also contribute to a banging noise. Worn end links can allow movement in the bar, and the bushings where the bar connects to the chassis can wear away and allow the bar to contact the chassis. Even a worn tie rod or ball joint can cause noises over bumps.
Since so many components can be causing a noise over bumps, have a certified technician inspect the suspension to isolate the exact cause.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
I hear an abnormal noise from front driver’s side wheel. It sounds like a wheel bearing but not sure.
ANSWER : A wheel bearing noise can be different between vehicles as some designs may vary a little. The most common is a roaring noise that may change when going around turns. It may be louder going in one direction or the other or just make a loud noise all of the time. The wheel hub presses into the wheel bearing. The hub is where the studs are for the wheel to be bolted onto the steering knuckle and the bearing provides the support for the wheel and weight of the vehicle. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at your wheel bearing noise to offer a more personal diagnosis.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
Near Constant squealing sound from drive side front wheel.
ANSWER : Hi there. The squealing noise that you are hearing from the wheel is the wheel bearings with no grease in them. I recommend replacing the wheel hub assembly on the driver side front wheel.
If you need further assistance with the squealing noise, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
When I put my car up on the jack and the front wheel comes up and I go to loosen it the wheel hole wheel moves left to right like
ANSWER : What you are describing sounds like free play in the tie rods. Your car has enough miles on it for this to be a problem. The tie rods are the link between the steering gearbox and the front wheels and as they wear, they will develop a certain amount of free play. There are about six pieces there that can be replaced as needed to tighten things up again. You can contact Your Mechanic to have a technician come out to your home or office to check out your front end and advise you on which pieces need to be replaced. Don’t put this off too long. Eventually, a worn tie rod can separate, if that happens, you will lose control of the car.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
Popping/clunking sound from right passenger side front. Front suspension was inspected over the weekend
ANSWER : Hi there. In most cases, when you have a problem like this, it’s caused by a loose or damaged strut, strut mount, stabilizer bar bushings or CV joints being worn out. The stabilizer bar bushing specifically is usually the part that would cause the ’clunk’ sound when hitting a bump. You might want to have a professional mechanic come to your location to complete a car is making a noise inspection. This will permit them to test drive the vehicle with you to attempt to replicate the symptom. Quite often, this is the best way to diagnose a problem like this.
Read Full Q/A … : Ratcheting sound in front left wheel area.
