My van was running great then it started to back fire, won’t get up to speed and dies when I push on the gas.
I need to know why my van is back firing, won't get up to speed, has a hissing noise and dies when I push the gas inn to go.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
There are a couple recalls that may pertain to this vehicle for fuel delivery system and circuit problems that may cause the fuel pump to not supply enough fuel to the fuel supply system. Call the local dealer with your vehicle ID number to see if there are open recalls for your vehicle.
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The fuel pump relay on the Ford E-350 is located in the fuse box under the hood. Generally, the relay can be found on the driver`s side by the firewall on the fender.
Now it`s my turn to lend a helping hand: you can locate the fuel pump relay on the 1989 Ford E-350 in the main fuse block under the hood. If looking at the fuse box with the turn signal flasher in the top left corner, you will find the electric fuel pump control in the lower left quadrant (numbered 18).
Looking at your engine compartment fuse and relay box, there are 3 square relays on the top left going down. The second one down is the Fuel Pump relay.
The fuel pump relay is in the fuse box engine compartment left side of engine compartment.
The fuel pump shut-off switch has a red reset button on top of it.
The electric fuel pump on a vehicle with a spark ignition engine is controlled by a fuel pump relay. The engine control module (ECM) activates the relay when operating conditions are correct. For safety purposes, the fuel pump relay is only activated when an engine speed signal is received by the ECM.
The fuel pump relay plays an integral role in getting fuel to your engine for combustion. Powered by the ignition and/or powertrain control module (PCM), the fuel pump relay`s main function is to provide the fuel pump with enough power. When the fuel pump relay isn`t working, then the fuel pump cannot either.
The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM by providing the relay with a ground. The PCM chooses to turn the relay on when it sees the motor is running. If the PCM doesn`t see an indication of the motor running, it will not supply a ground path to the relay and the fuel pump will not receive power.
The relay is under the hood on the drivers side. however there does seem to be a reset switch on the passenger side footwell for it. That is the INERTIA fuel shutoff switch.
The fuel pump relay on a 1988 Toyota Pickup is located either behind the glove box or on the driver`s side kick panel.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My van was running great then it started to back fire, won’t get up to speed and dies when I push on the gas.
ANSWER : There are a couple recalls that may pertain to this vehicle for fuel delivery system and circuit problems that may cause the fuel pump to not supply enough fuel to the fuel supply system. Call the local dealer with your vehicle ID number to see if there are open recalls for your vehicle.
My truck died while driving. Now will start, but dies when I push brake. If I start in neutral, I can put in drive and go but dies – 2003 Ford F250
ANSWER : Hello – your symptoms suggest that once your cold start features are no longer needed – engine warming up – there is an air "leak" that ruins low speed running. Causes could be a leaking exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, or leak in the air intake. A failing fuel pump relay (burned contacts) could cause similar behavior, contacts become hot, then won’t pass enough current to run the pump. Failing pump can also act this way – gets hot and fails. I recommend a starts, then dies inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
I changed the fuel pump and truck ran great for 3 days. Now after 3 days, the truck dies. It will start running for a few minutes, then dies like before.
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. I’d be happy to help. It sounds like you should disconnect the connector to the fuel pump and inspect it for any signs of getting hot. The female connections may be too loose on the fuel pump and lose contact after running and getting hot. If there are indeed any signs of problems, then I’d suggest replacing connector and adding dielectric lube to pins before installation. This should solve the problem, but if you continue to experience issues, feel free to reach out to us for help again.
Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.
Why doesn’t car start after running out of gas girlfriend ran gas out of car now won’t start plenty of gas in tank doesn’t sound l
ANSWER : Fuel pumps rely on liquid gasoline for cooling. Consequently, it is recommended to keep the fuel tank at least 1/4 full to prevent the fuel pump from overheating. If the pump is run to the point of being dry, the seal on the impeller can overheat and get damaged. Even if the pump subsequently runs, as you report your does, it cannot develop enough suction to pick up fuel due to the seal damage. That is possibly what has happened in your case but it should be confirmed prior to replacing the fuel pump. In your circumstance the recommended service is fuel pump replacement but if you request that, the responding certified mechanic will do enough tests to confirm that there is no other possible explanation for the failure. There is a quick and direct way to determine if the problem is lack of fuel. Procure a can of "starter fluid" from any department store. Using the material cautiously (it is highly flammable; keep away from flames or sparks), introduce some of the fluid into the intake of the engine while you engage the starter motor. If the vehicle starts and runs briefly, then you know for sure the problem is fuel starvation of course almost undoubtedly caused by the pump failing. Fuel pump replacement can be accomplished in the field, right at your location, if you desire that service.
Not getting enough fuel car will not run right. It stalls when you give it gas and stalls when it’s running. It’s a 1984 Ford Escort.
ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. Several early 80’s Ford’s swapped from carburetor to fuel injected engines; including your ’84 Ford Escort. However, there were two different fuel systems available that year. If your Escort has the fuel injected engine, one item I’d check is the EGR valve or clean the throttle body.
Both systems impact fuel delivery into the engine and if they are dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build up, can starve the engine to create this type of issue. If it’s the carburetor version, the carburetor might need to be rebuilt, or may be an issue with float bowls inside the carb.
If you need assistance diagnosing the exact issue, feel free to contact one of our professional mechanics to complete an engine is stalling inspection firsthand at your own location.
Ok car starts and runs fine normal idle but once it gets up to warming temp it’s like it starts to bog and dies.
ANSWER : With the randomness of the codes you are pulling, it is hard to determine what they have in common. When diagnosing mechanical errors like this, keep it simple. Due to the loss of power and stalling issue, I would like you to look at the one component that may have a huge effect over all of theses parts.
The ELD is a unit which measures the amount of power coming from the battery. It allows the alternator to adjust the field, and the amount of power generated by it. If you are experiencing issues with the ELD, which allows the battery and alternator to behave incorrectly, the other electrical components in the vehicle will not work. You may have more than one issue that is all coming to a head at once.
You can test the ELD with a multimeter, but any electrical testing can be dangerous, and we recommend you proceed with caution. If you’re not comfortable with this repair, consider YourMechanic, as one of our mobile technicians can come to your home to diagnose the stalling issue firsthand and help you make the necessary repairs.
Sometimes the truck will start and run just fine, and other times it will barely want to start and I need to press the gas pedal
ANSWER : Hello. This can be caused by a few different things. If the vehicle will run by pressing lightly on the gas pedal then it may be a bad idle control valve. If it sticks, it will allow too much air into the engine and cause it to run like this.
It can also be a weak fuel pump or an air flow meter issue. If the engine runs fine once it is started, then I would check the computer for codes first. If none are present, then I would run the engine and see what the sensor readings are to see if anything comes up faulty.
If those are also fine, then I check the fuel pressure to see if the pump is getting weak or to see if the pressure bleeds off while the vehicle sits. If you are thinking of having this starting issue inspected, consider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair this problem.
