My truck will stall as if it has no fuel getting to the injectors

ANSWER : Hi There,
It sounds like you may have a clogged fuel injector or potentially a faulty injector that is fried internally. I would suggest testing them if you have access to a multi meter. Disconnect the injector from the electrical connector and set your multi meter to Ohms mode and measure the resistance of the injector. After testing all injectors, compare the resistance. They should be the same or very close. If they are not, they will likely need to be replaced.

ANSWER : You need to look at the theft light on dash to make sure it comes on and goes off when you turn the key to the on position. If light comes on and stays on then your theft system is causing the fuel pump to not be engaged. I recommend you check the theft system and then scan the computer for theft system codes. You may need to reprogram the keys to work or you have an bad sensor for the ignition key in the steering column.

ANSWER : If you have tested the fuel pressure and it is OK, you know that fuel is getting to the injectors. So the question becomes whether the injectors are tripping. That can be determined by placing a stethoscope against the injector while a helper cranks the car. you can hear if the injectors are working. If your car runs on the starting fluid, then it must not be delivering fuel for some reason so my guess is that they are not. Diagnosing that condition takes a pretty thorough knowledge of the fuel injection system, so if that is not you, you should have a professional take a look. You can have that conveniently done by contacting Your Mechanic. They will send a technician to your home or office to check out your Nissan and let you know what it is going to take to get it starting again.

ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. Several early 80’s Ford’s swapped from carburetor to fuel injected engines; including your ’84 Ford Escort. However, there were two different fuel systems available that year. If your Escort has the fuel injected engine, one item I’d check is the EGR valve or clean the throttle body.

Both systems impact fuel delivery into the engine and if they are dirty or clogged with excessive carbon build up, can starve the engine to create this type of issue. If it’s the carburetor version, the carburetor might need to be rebuilt, or may be an issue with float bowls inside the carb.

If you need assistance diagnosing the exact issue, feel free to contact one of our professional mechanics to complete an engine is stalling inspection firsthand at your own location.

ANSWER : Hi there. Check the fuel injectors for power to the harness on each injector. Make sure that there is a voltage reference. If there is no voltage reference, then there may be an issue with the main harness from the computer to the injectors. If there is a voltage, then get a noid light set and put them on the injectors and crank the engine over. If the lights flash as the engine is cranking, then the injectors are working and may be plugged. If the noid lights are not lighting up, then the injectors are not working and need replaced. I recommend removing the injectors and putting the tips hanging in a container with sea foam to clean them out. Then put the injectors back on the engine and put the sea foam in the fuel tank. This will stabilize the fuel and clean the fuel out. Fine particles will plug up the fuel injectors and cause them to fail. If you need further assistance with your engine not starting, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.

ANSWER : There could be a few things contributing to your problem. You are correct that clogged or sticking fuel injectors and possibly the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty. A plugged catalytic converter can also cause the vehicle to bog down. A failing throttle position sensor can cause the symptoms you describe as well. I suggest having a certified technician, like one from YourMechanic.com, do a few tests to determine the exact cause of your starting concern.

ANSWER : The switch you are referring to is vended with the required electrical and fuel schematic (I just looked in the box) that answers your installation question. If you want an advance view, here is a link as well. Yes, you need a return line and just refer to the aforementioned link. If you are retrofitting back to OEM, I strongly encourage you to buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM). There are lots of details attending this system and obviously it is difficult to recount it all here. The FSM will make your life much easier and you can then make sure your installation is perfect. Alternatively, YourMechanic can dispatch a certified mechanic and perform the whole retrofit and check out if you desire. Just request and schedule a generic service such as fuel pump service and the mechanic will come to your location and estimate the parts and labor required. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Check the ignition coil on your engine. If the coil in new with the distributor, then the problem could be the computer or module of the vehicle. An ECM or PCM will cause the ignition system to shut down if there is too much heat. If the vehicle has an external ignition module, then the module could be getting too hot causing the engine to stall out. If you need further assistance with your engine stalling, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.