My ignition chime, radio, clock, dome light quit working at same time. The next day my keyless remotes quit working as well. What
My ignition chime, radio, clock, dome light quit working at same time. The next day my keyless remotes quit working as well. I've programmed them myself once, but this time they won't program I need the keyless remotes, because my key won't open any of my doors . Help!
My car has 184000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
The devices that failed may be on a common circuit and thus a relay, fuse, fusible link, or ground might be the issue. The keyless remote, although wireless, activates a vehicle circuit and that circuit, too, may have experienced some sort of failure, like the others. Your issue is primarily an electrical fault and thus the recommended service to get it repaired is an electrical component/circuit diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, a certified mechanic will get this resolved. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
Test your key fob to make sure it`s working properly. If your vehicle doesn`t respond, open the case again and readjust the battery, making sure the connections are clean and they`re making contact with the battery. If the key fob still doesn`t work, you may need to reprogram your Toyota key fob.
The IOD fuse is a 20 amp fuse located in cavity #51 of the integrated power module (IPM). This fuse provides power to the instrument cluster, diagnostic connector, map lamps, glove box, courtesy lamps, radio and underhood light.
An antenna or wiring fault in the keyless entry system, software issues, a damaged circuit board, or a faulty start button are all possible culprits. Consider having the vehicle inspected for any repair needs.
Most remote car keys use lithium ion coin batteries, which have a long, but not limitless, shelf life. A dead battery is usually the primary cause of remote car key failure, so should be the first thing you check if your remote car key stops working.
Turn your key in the ignition from “off” to “on,” and repeat within five seconds. Remove your key from the ignition. Within 40 seconds, close and open the driver door twice, and then insert and remove the key from the ignition one more time. Again, be sure to perform steps one and two within 40 seconds.
Located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the steering wheel, the Smart Key deactivation switch is a little known element that could cause you a headache. Just flip the switch and you will be back in action.
This is generally caused by a short in the steering wheel cable reel assembly, but could also be a bad horn switch, or horn relay.
Check for blown fuses and light bulbs
If you notice that all the lights in the interior are not working yet the radio or stereo still work, it`s a sign that a blown fuse could be the problem.
The likely cause is a fuse, headlight relay, headlight switch, dimmer switch or a wiring fault. About the only cause that is an easy fix is a blown fuse. Consult your owner`s manual to locate the main fuse for the headlight circuit and replace that fuse with one having the same amp rating.
Check the lightbulb to see if it is loose in the socket, or has burned out. Tighten the bulb or replace it, as needed. Check the socket tab in the center of the socket. If it`s flattened, you may have to pull up on it in order for it to make contact with the bulb.
The fuse has blown for the control circuit or module of the keyless entry system. Refer to your owner`s manual for the corresponding fuse, locate the fuse box, and then test the fuse. Use a test light while the fuse is in place or remove the fuse completely to do a continuity test using a multimeter.
Reasons A Car Won`t Detect the Key Fob
Keyfob Battery – The battery inside your key fob is dead or too weak. Therefore, it can not send a strong signal to the keyless entry system. Key batteries will need to be replaced. Damaged Key – The key itself is damaged, which can happen when you drop the key or wash it.
If your ECU controls the anti-theft system, disconnecting the battery may lock you out of your car. Like desktop computers and most other electronics, disconnecting the battery cable for a short period will not fully reset your ECU due to the residual power remaining in the circuits.
If you try to turn the key in the exterior lock, but it doesn`t work, there are several possibilities. The latch or the lock cylinder may be broken, or the mechanism may need to be adjusted. The key itself could also be worn down. All of these should be inspected by an expert.
The Immobilizer and Smart Key Reset is a feature that allows the registration of new keys when all master keys are lost. Once the system is reset, all previously registered keys will be erased.
A smart key system malfunction means that your Toyota`s smart key is not working properly. You may be unable to start your car normally or use other smart key features. You`ll see this error message in the middle of your vehicle`s dashboard display. This message may flash when you attempt to start your car.
Dome light is dim
One of the first symptoms commonly associated with a bad or failing dome light bulb is a dome light that shines dimly. If the dome light bulb wears out it can cause the light to shine less brightly than before. The light may shine noticeably dimmer if the bulb is near the end of its service life.
The dome light staying on can also be an indicator there is a problem with the door. If the door has loose hinges or is misaligned and sits improperly, it can`t latch completely in and the switch won`t turn off since the latch is not interrupting the circuit.
Circuit Overload
Check you don`t have too many appliances plugged into one power point. One of the common causes of lights not working is an overload of circuits. This happens when too many appliances are connected to one circuit, which means not enough current is available for each appliance or light fixture.
If half a strand is working and the other half is not, you probably have a loose or broken bulb. Start with the first unlit bulb and work your way down, wiggling them to check for looseness. If it flickers, that`s your cue to replace it.
More often, the issue is a blown fuse or tripped circuit caused by excessive electrical current flowing through the wires. The fuse or breaker will automatically cut off the current to prevent the wires from overheating and causing a fire.
Blown fuse indicator operation
When the fuse blows off, the supply to green LED gets blocked, and because only one LED is in the circuit, the red LED glows. In case of power failure, both LEDs remain `off`.
LED lights do not need relays to operate. Yet, doing so is not recommended. It is best to use a relay when you are unsure about switches, fuses, and wiring is of the proper size for the amperage. When you are sure that there is no risk of anything wrong, you may wire an LED light bar without a relay.
All mains powered LED bulbs require a transformer. Depending on the bulb type, the transformer/driver may be built in to the bulb casing or may be located externally. The purpose of the transformer is to reduce mains voltage (240V) to the desired level relative to the bulb being powered (e.g. 12V or 24V).
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My ignition chime, radio, clock, dome light quit working at same time. The next day my keyless remotes quit working as well. What
ANSWER : The devices that failed may be on a common circuit and thus a relay, fuse, fusible link, or ground might be the issue. The keyless remote, although wireless, activates a vehicle circuit and that circuit, too, may have experienced some sort of failure, like the others. Your issue is primarily an electrical fault and thus the recommended service to get it repaired is an electrical component/circuit diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, a certified mechanic will get this resolved. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Dash, Tail/brake, dome, trunk, glovebox, and door lights won’t work, dash doing weird things.
ANSWER : Hi there. Sure would appear a lot is going on electrically all at once. This could be, a problem in the PDC (power distribution center). The PDC is typically located under the hood and contains numerous fuses and relays. I don’t believe any one fuse will resolve all of the electrical issues. There is a possibility, it is not a power supply issue. It may be, the result of a poor electrical ground common to the inoperative components. Proper circuit testing should be performed. This would confirm the cause of multiple electrical failures. I recommend having your vehicle’s electrical problems be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic.
Honda Civic 2008. AC stopped working suddenly and engine check light came ON for a day.Next day AC worked and no engine light.
ANSWER : Hi there. In both cases, when an AC system is not working and a warning light is coming on the dashboard, typically a professional mechanic will complete the same initial inspection, which is to download the stored error codes that triggered the warning light initially. This tends to give them an idea as to what is causing the problems. This could be something as simple as an electrical relay that is faulty or loose or an indication of a computer related "glitch". Either way, the best way to move forward is to have a professional mobile mechanic complete a check engine light inspection.
signals, daytime running lights are not working, park brake light on dash is on steady and chime is dinging steady 4×4 wont engage
ANSWER : This is likely a brake light switch problem. I would suggest testing the brake light switch which should be located down by the brake pedal. This may also be a computer problem as well as indicated by the other lights on in the dash. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your home to possibly replace the brake light switch and diagnose with a scanning tool which will download useful data from the truck’s computer indicating what specifically the problem may be.
All dashboard lights and tail lights do not work after driving through a lot of snow. Headlights work. And brake lights work.
ANSWER : Hello. We’ll be happy to help you. There are a few things that I recommend checking to discover why your lighting system is malfunctioning. The headlight dimmer switch should be checked. Along with the wiring harness above the right front tire behind the fender well cover. Also
the main fuse under the hood should be inspected because other people with your particular vehicle have had similar lighting issues if that fuse goes bad. It will be a great idea to check the rest of the fuses in that area too while checking the main fuse. Once the fuses are checked inside of the main fuse box then I would check the fuses inside of their interior fuse box. The interior fuse box should be located on the driver side of the dashboard near where your legs would be. If you need more assistance with repairing your vehicle please keep in mind that our organization provides Mobile Mechanics who can help you diagnose and repair your vehicle, all at competitive rates.
the main fuse under the hood should be inspected because other people with your particular vehicle have had similar lighting issues if that fuse goes bad. It will be a great idea to check the rest of the fuses in that area too while checking the main fuse. Once the fuses are checked inside of the main fuse box then I would check the fuses inside of their interior fuse box. The interior fuse box should be located on the driver side of the dashboard near where your legs would be. If you need more assistance with repairing your vehicle please keep in mind that our organization provides Mobile Mechanics who can help you diagnose and repair your vehicle, all at competitive rates.
Okay so when I turn my lights on at night my brake lights do not work, when I don’t have my lights on they work fine.
ANSWER : Hi there. Based on your inquiry, it’s highly probable that you have a damaged light switch or some electrical fault inside the turn signal relay. However, it’s also possible that the brake switch above the brake pedal could also be the source of your problem. Due to the fact that multiple electrical components might be causing this issue, it’s a smart idea to first have a professional mobile mechanic complete a brake lights are not working inspection, so they can determine what’s causing all of these issues and recommend the right repairs.
car dome light wont go off with key in the ignition cant turn dome light on maumally every frw day car has to be jumped off
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. The dome light is triggered by several different switches, and one of them is stuck on. One thing you can do until you diagnose the issue, is unplug the fuse for the light. This should help the battery issue until the problem is resolved. You will have the best luck tracing the voltage supply with a voltmeter to the switch that is giving it power. You will also benefit from a wiring diagram of the circuit. If you do not have a voltmeter, it is a guessing game. You will want to attempt to turn the light off with the door switch (located in the door jam), and at the dashboard switch. Unplugging one of these components should turn the light off, and then you know what your problem is. For more diagnostic help, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
Truck won’t start in morning. 2nd day now. Battery seems good.
ANSWER : Since the symptoms changed when you touched the battery terminal, it leads me to believe you may have a poor connection and the main battery terminals. If they are badly corroded or have any small cracks, the terminal may be too loose on the battery. You can rule out the battery by removing the connection to the vehicle then testing the battery itself. If the battery is good then reattach the terminals, tighten them and see if you are able to wiggle them on the posts. If the terminal still moves, replace the entire cable. You can cut the terminal ends and replace them, but you will never get as perfect a connection as replacing the whole cable. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out and take a closer look at the loss of electrical power situation and run tests to offer a more personal diagnosis.
