My car has a rough idle when I start my car, when I stop at a light my car turns off. Is it the purge sensor?
My car has a rough idle and my lights on my car dim and brightens while my car has a rough idle? Is it the purge sensor?
My car has 191083 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and repair your idle air control valve.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced mechanics :
The most common reasons a Chevrolet Impala Limited has rough idle are a vacuum leak, an issue with the spark plugs, or a problem with the ignition coil. Search our network of RepairPal Certified shops near you to speak with a technician about your issue. Oops!
What to Look For: A bad fuel pump can cause difficulty when starting the vehicle, a rough idle, and stalling. Clogged Fuel Filter – The fuel filter filters the contaminants from gasoline. Over time it can become clogged, which slows the flow of fuel.
Oxygen (O2) sensor
An oxygen sensor monitors and analyzes the amount of oxygen in a vehicle`s exhaust system after combustion. A dirty, damaged or malfunctioning O2 sensor (or sensors) affects the air/fuel mixture, causing the engine to idle rough.
This is perfectly normal when first starting the car in the morning as this is part of the cold start warm up process. If this is something that happens all of the time, then you may have a dirty or faulty idle air control valve.
Any unusual shaking or vibrating forces coming from the engine is cause for concern. It could be something as simple as old spark plugs producing an uneven power delivery, it could be something serious like worn or broken engine mounts, or it could be even more serious in the case of internal engine damage.
A rough idling engine can be caused by spark plugs or spark plug wires. Spark plugs use the electrical current received from ignition coils to ignite the air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber. A plug that is damaged or installed incorrectly can result in fuel being burned at an inconsistent rate.
Many system malfunctions can cause misfires or rough idling. Ignition system components, including spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coils and ignition timing are culprits as are lean air/fuel mixtures and mechanical issues within the engine.
To check whether the idle air control valve is functioning properly, start the engine and let it run for about 10 to 15 minutes. If the valve is functioning correctly, the engine will sound good and the idle will be steady versus too high, too low, or inconsistent.
Yes. While the damage may seem small initially, the longer you drive with a bad oxygen sensor, the worse the damage will become. Eventually, you may experience rough idling, poor acceleration, engine misfires, an illuminated check engine light, and failed emission tests.
The most common cause of the shaking most often happens near your tires and rims. The tires and wheels connect your vehicle to the road, and if anything is a bit wonky, will notice. It may be something like a broken transmission or a broken control arm.
Engine hunting and surging at idle is usually caused by a fuel delivery, air leak, or governor system problem. Cleaning/overhauling the carburettor, adjustment of the governor, and/or changing the air filer may be required.
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. One of the most common causes of rough idle on a cold engine is a faulty ECT sensor. This sensor signals the car`s computer when the engine`s coolant is cold or hot, so the computer delivers more or less fuel to the engine. A cold engine requires more fuel than a warmed engine.
Bad Sensors
One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn`t working, the spark plugs won`t fire, keeping the engine from starting.
A PCV valve that`s stuck open will allow too much air to enter the intake manifold, leading to a leaner idling fuel-air mixture. Stuck closed leads to a build up of pressure in the crank case which creates a variety of oil leaks! And this in turn can lead to a range of issues, including a rough idle.
How to fix it? Cleaning or replacing the fuel filter and adding a fuel injector cleaning treatment to the fuel tank should take care of clogged fuel injectors. If the rough idle persists, it`s time to take your car to an auto repair shop.
Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
What could the problem be? There are a range of reasons why your car is juddering when you accelerate. Your vehicle could have dirty fuel injectors, a damaged fuel pump, a blocked catalytic converter, a faulty mass airflow sensor, broken spark plugs, or even an accumulation of moisture.
Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
My car has a rough idle when I start my car, when I stop at a light my car turns off. Is it the purge sensor?
ANSWER : This may be a result of a dirty or failing idle air control valve. The idle air control valve reads the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine at low speeds and at idle. Since this valve is controlled by the vehicle’s computer, it will adjust idle speed based upon other measurements such as engine temperature, intake air temperature and electrical system load or voltage. When you accelerate, the engine RPM increases, and as you let off the gas, the RPM slowly returns to the normal idling speed with the help of the idle air control valve making the transition from a higher RPM back down to idle speed. When the engine RPM drops below the normal range of about ~800 RPM, this often times will cause the engine to stall indicating a dirty or faulty idle air control valve. I would recommend having an expert from YourMechanic come to your location to diagnose and repair your idle air control valve.
Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.
If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Car won’t turn over. No lights come on when I turn it. Can’t even lock my doorsvor push the seat up or back.
ANSWER : Your probably correct, it sounds as though your battery is done. But it also sounds like you have charging system issues. I’m not sure that fixing your battery and charging system will solve the problem with the car shutting off, but it’s possible that it will and it’s a darned good place to start. By contacting Your Mechanic, you can have a technician come to your home or office to check out your car and help you figure out what to do next.
Was driving on the expressway and my car started shaking, check engine light turned on, oil light turned on and off
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Shaking and vibrating typically comes from a misfire, or poor engine performance. A lack of oil will absolutely contribute to these symptoms and amplify them, if not cause them to begin with. You want to turn your attention to the cause of the oil leak. If external (you can see the leaking oil), then you will want to trace the leak to the component which has failed. If the leak is internal (or the engine is consuming oil), the leak will be harder to find. It will also explain the poor engine performance due to excess oil in the combustion chamber. A head gasket is one of the main components that will fail and cause these issues. It is however not common for a vehicle this age to have these kinds of problems. You will also want to scan the computer, and see what codes are triggering your check engine light. These diagnostic tools will help you determine what system(s) is to blame for the malfunction. For more diagnostic help, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.
My car stops when engine gets warm and while I am driving I stop on red light and car suddenly turn off and I have to hit starter
ANSWER : Hello, from what you’ve described it sounds like you are having several different issues. The starter should have nothing to do with it stalling, but it will have something to do with the car restarting if it doesn’t turn the engine well. The stalling can be from the distributor or possibly a computer sensor.
The scenario where you hit a car from behind may be from another problem, alongside with the idling of the engine. Without knowing the model and engine size of your car I can only say so much. I would suggest having a mechanic do a thorough check of the entire car to check the engine, brakes, and computer systems to see if the problems can be identified and repaired, or at the very least quoted.
Car won’t start. The check engine light, battery light, and oil change light are coming on. I tried jumping the car and nothing happened. Why won’t my car start?
ANSWER : Hi and thanks for contacting Your Mechanic. If sometimes your vehicle will start with the new alternator and sometimes it won’t, then there is a loose connection in your charging system. Check all of the wires to the alternator and to the battery. Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure that the wires to the starter are clean and tight. A loose ground to the ignition system will cause the vehicle to not crank over. Check all of the ground wires from the battery to the starter. Make sure that they are clean and tight. If you need further assistance troubleshooting your no start situation, then seek out a technician, such as one from Your Mechanic, that can assist you.
Okay so when I turn my lights on at night my brake lights do not work, when I don’t have my lights on they work fine.
ANSWER : Hi there. Based on your inquiry, it’s highly probable that you have a damaged light switch or some electrical fault inside the turn signal relay. However, it’s also possible that the brake switch above the brake pedal could also be the source of your problem. Due to the fact that multiple electrical components might be causing this issue, it’s a smart idea to first have a professional mobile mechanic complete a brake lights are not working inspection, so they can determine what’s causing all of these issues and recommend the right repairs.
Map sensor car won’t start up good ?
ANSWER : Your MAP sensor is an important input for your computer. It helps determine the load on the engine to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject. It sometimes takes a few seconds for the vehicle to realize that the sensor is not producing a good signal.
At that point, it will use other methods to determine the fuel rate, such as pre-programmed fuel maps, throttle position, etc. I would suggest replacing the MAP sensor and retesting. If you would like to have it checked first, a certified technician from YourMechanic will be able to scan your vehicle and test components to determine the root cause of your starting issue before making a repair.
