motor mounts

ANSWER : There is nothing in a basic tune up that would require loosening or touching the motor mounts. If the motor mounts are in fact loose, they could potentially cause damage to the axles if the motor were to shift enough while driving; however, this would take time and there would have been a very distinct vibration and clunk that you would have very likely noticed while driving. I would recommend having a certified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, come take a look at the car to properly diagnose and repair your motor mount problem.

ANSWER : I believe you need to replace all of your mounts. You are saying it is touching the frame, so I would suggest the rest of them be replaced also. You may also look around and see if you have anything obstructing the fact that it isn’t sitting properly. I hope this helps with your issue.

ANSWER : To check for engine-mount problems, you can try shifting from "neutral" to "drive" and back, while the engine is running. If the vibrations disappear or reduce dramatically in "neutral," it’s likely that you need new engine mounts. Whenever there is excessive engine vibration, be sure to first rule out engine operating conditions. For example, rough running at idle can be caused by faults in the air induction system as well as the ignition and fuel systems. If you want the running condition of the engine evaluated by a certified Mechanic, dispatched by YourMechanic right to your location, please request a rough idle diagnostic. To evaluate the motor mounts, request an engine vibration diagnostic. If you do end up replacing additional motor mounts, genuine OEM mounts are recommended in order to maximize the chances of resolving the problem. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : The first thing to do is to compare the motor mounts on old and new motor to make sure they are the same on each motor and swap them if they are not the same.

ANSWER : Hi, thanks for writing in. I suggest returning the motor mount and getting the correct one before proceeding with the repair and replacement.

ANSWER : Any broken motor mounts should be replaced immediately. If "all" are broken, then all should be replaced immediately. The problem with operating a vehicle with damaged mounts is the engine gets out of position and that can cause collateral damage to the CV axles (as the CV axles, in turn, run out of position) and other components. HOWEVER, it is unusual for all mounts to in fact be bad, all at the same time, and so you should ask that the mechanic PROVE to you that the (or each) mount is defective (show you, by visual demonstration, the break, deterioration or other fault in the mount) before you make a decision. Trust but VERIFY. If no actual evidence is shown to you of a fault in the mount and/or if the explanation that is given to you of the fault does not make sense to you, run for the exits. Alternatively, get a second opinion, but there again, you have to have proof. If it turns out that you need new mounts, do not waste your time with aftermarket mounts. A motor mount is a high tech, highly engineered part these days and indeed some are actually hydraulic in operation. If you want the motor mounts that were designed for your car, buy the mounts from the dealer (OEM). That is the ONLY way you can be sure they will fit and work properly. As far as the serpentine belt is concerned, generally the belt only needs to be replaced every 100,000 miles or so. If your belt is original, absolutely replace it. However, if the belt has been replaced already and perhaps has only 50,000 miles or so on it, there is no need to replace it again now. If the belt is replaced, all of the pulleys, the tensioner, and all rotating elements in the circuit, MUST be carefully inspected and replaced as needed. You might ask the mechanic the open ended question, "what about the pulleys that the belt rides on?". If he doesn’t immediately state in response, "after we remove the belt, of course we inspect the pulleys for smoothness of operation and to be sure the grease is still good", run for the exits.

If you desire an inspection of the motor mounts (and drive belt), and advice and replacement as needed, please simply request motor/transmission mount inspection/replacement and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.

ANSWER : Engine mount and motor mount are completely interchangeable terms that refer to the identical component. There is an additional mount though and that is the transaxle or transmission mount. That mount is important, too, in minimizing vibration. For ordinary passenger cars, there are no choices as to mount type (i.e., hydraulic versus solid rubber). Vibration at idle can have multiple causes so you should be sure that the mechanic has provided you with an accurate diagnostic, accompanied by reasoning as to why the mounts are the cause of the vibration versus other potential causes.

In your circumstance, where you are trying to resolve a vibration issue, it is recommended that the original OEM mounts, as designed and manufactured by Honda, be used as the replacements. If you use aftermarket mounts, and the vibration issue persists, it will literally be impossible to rule out the aftermarket mounts as a "new" source of vibration due to a defective design. To save yourself headaches, and further diagnostic problems if the vibration persists after replacement, if you suspect motor mounts are bad, replace with OEM mounts only. Obviously, the Honda mounts are going to be more expensive though. After replacing the mounts, if the vibration issue persists, the problem is either engine running condition, or a mechanical or balance issue with the engine, for example the harmonic balancer. Before doing anything, I would ask the mechanic who told you the mounts are bad what his reasoning is. If he has no credible explanation, you should get a diagnostic FIRST before replacing any parts. If you are in need of a diagnostic, please use YourMechanic’s vehicle engine vibration diagnostic service page. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic because we want you to make the most of your repair dollars and help you to get the best possible results.

ANSWER : Hi there. The leaks from the transmission could have came from the oil pan. When using a jack to lift up the engine, if the jack was sitting on the transmission oil pan, it probably cracked the pan, or the jack could have cause a line to bend and rupture. Go under the vehicle and look for the signs of leaks and look to see if there is any damage to the transmission. Do not attempt to start the vehicle with no oil in the transmission as this will damage the transmission. Replace the parts that are damaged and fill up the transmission with new fluid. If you need further assistance with your engine not starting after you discovered transmission oil under the vehicle, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.