Leak around the crankshaft seals

ANSWER : If the oil filter housing is integral to the oil cooler, or the housing had to be removed to service the cooler, a professional mechanic with knowledge of the limited service life of rubber seals would have absolutely (guaranteed) replaced the filter housing gasket that you are now belatedly finding leaks. However, if the leaking gasket is in an assembly that was not touched, or is not part of the cooler, they might be on reasonable grounds to have not fooled with it. These cooler configurations vary (from Mercedes Benz model to model) so, having the advice I just gave, you can just simply ask them what configuration you have and go from there. The bottom line is, if indeed, the gasket that is presently leaking was "right in front of them" while they did the warranty work, it should have been replaced simply as a matter of course. Indeed, the weak link on modern engines has become gaskets and seals. The engine will mechanically far outlast the gasket and seals but the problem is to replace all of them (once they all leak) you have to literally take the engine out of the car and take it apart just to put all new seals in. Please let us know how we can help further on this issue.

ANSWER : Hi there, thanks for writing in. I recommend buy the Toyota OEM part. Although we could go into high detail as to the precise technical differences amongst the various and competing aftermarket seals you are describing, such will not change the conclusion at all. Generally speaking, aftermarket parts are NOT as good as the factory OEM parts. Large car manufacturers spend hundreds of millions of dollars, indeed billions, developing the technologies used in these vehicles and ALL of the parts are extraordinarily carefully engineered to fit very precisely and perform specific functions. In the aftermarket, they try to duplicate that, but more often than not, it does not work. Toyota OEM quality in particular is not duplicated well, if not at all, in the aftermarket.

ANSWER : Hi there. It’s quite possible that this is a rear oil seal or oil pan gasket that is leaking; or perhaps a transmission oil tube seal that is leaking. The problem with trying to diagnose an oil leak is that typically the oil tends to spray onto different components underneath the vehicle. You might want to have a professional mechanic complete an oil leak inspection to help you locate the source of the leak and recommend the right repairs.

ANSWER : Hello. This is a simple yet involved fix. The crankshaft seal is located behind the crank and timing belt cover. In order to complete this repair, it is necessary to remove the timing belt and timing belt cover, in order to replace the crank seal. When it is necessary to make a repair of a crankshaft seal, it is often recommended that the water pump and timing belt, which are located in the same area, be replaced as well. The reason for this recommendation is because of how timely and costly it can be to access this area. The timing belt and water pump are routinely changed every 50,000-60,000 miles. If you don’t know when or if these two components were last replaced, it would be a good idea to have the technician doing your repair to inspect them and make a recommendation as to whether they should be replaced. A certified technician would be happy to assist you with this repair in order to get your leak fixed.

ANSWER : Hi there. If you would like to receive an estimate to have one of our mobile mechanics come to your location and complete a crankshaft seal replacement and other oil leaks, you can request the quote by clicking this link then selecting the Get a Quote blue button. Enter your information and we’ll send you a quote for services. Once you’re in contact with our service department, you can receive estimates for the other services as well.

ANSWER : There has to be some problem with the mating surface on the transmission or the pan and seal. If there are any pieces of the old seal on the pan, the chances the pan will leak at that spot are pretty high. Look closely with a flashlight to see if there are any cracks along the mating surface or pan where the leak continues and clean the area well to be sure it is the pan and not a leak from higher up coming down on the pan. Many mechanics will use a scraped along the surfaces to make sure any debris is knocked off before adding a new seal and sealer. Also, allow the pan sealer you are using to cure for a couple of hours before adding fluid to the transmission. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out to take a closer look and offer a more personal diagnosis.

ANSWER : I like to classify leaks when I see them, and I think these identifications could help in your case. I use three classes of leaks:

Class 1 = slight wet residue leak around area with signs of a drip forming under the leak but does not drip on floor. (Does not require repair yet and may be normal)
Class 2 = moderate wet leak around the area with signs of a drip forming and does drip once or twice a day. (Recommend repair when possible and is not normal)
Class 3 = heavy active leak around the area with signs of a drip forming and actively dripping at least 1 drop a minute. (Recommend repair now; may cause failed component)

I recommend having the same technician show you the leak and then asking about its severity. If you do not feel comfortable with that mechanic, an independent technician from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the potential leak for you and replace your crankshaft seal if necessary.

ANSWER : Hello Mike. You have found yourself in a position where there is a lot to consider, and the choice is going to come down to how much risk you are willing to take with this truck. Starting with the knock sensor, it can be anything from a bad connection to a bad knock sensor itself. If the engine seems to be running quietly and smoothly, it is likely a connection or sensor problem. The oil pan leak is also a problem, because of how difficult they are to fix (even if it is just the gasket). Often you have to remove several components and possibly even raise the engine to get access to it. When you add the axle seals into the mix, you have to consider the time, effort, and money it takes to replace them as well. If the truck is in great condition otherwise, you may have a decent purchase. However, axle seals, oil pan gaskets, and knock sensor issues all happen with heavy wear typically, and the truck may be closer to the end of its life than it seems. 126,000 miles is not a lot, and if you can get the repairs done relatively inexpensively, then you may be taking less of a risk. For a second opinion and inspection, contact our service department to schedule an appointment.