it takes a number of times to start my car it starts then stalls straightaway The car will turn over but won’t fire its
it takes a number of times to start my car it starts then stalls straightaway The car will turn over but won't fire its it does start eventually but i need put foot on accelerator to get it going its a 2004 seat leon 1.6sx
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello there. Typically, a vehicle will start and then quit because of an issue with the fuel or electrical system. Some common parts that cause this include mass air flow sensors, damaged or clogged fuel injectors, or the throttle body being damaged. The best way to diagnose the right cause of this problem is to have a mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car starts then dies inspection.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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The most common reason your car starts then dies immediately is because of a lack of fuel in the engine. This often happens because there is a small amount of fuel in the fuel rail, which helps to start the engine. However, there is no fuel pressure to keep the engine running.
This may be related to low fuel pressure, faulty or dirty fuel injectors, a faulty or dirty idle air control valve (this relays information about air intake to the computer which makes fuel adjustments), or potentially a faulty fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.
The reason for your car taking longer to start can depend on a variety of conditions including weather, battery health, starter health, fuel pump health, and other factors. If your vehicle is slow to start, or if something seems to be wrong with your vehicle, it can be tricky to find the cause.
Some of the most common sensors that lead to engine stalling include the mass airflow sensor (MAF), engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) and manifold absolute pressure sesnsor (MAP). The idle air control valve (IAC) and exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR) are also well known for causing engine stalling.
A failing fuel pump is one of the faults that can cause this. Other likely problems would be the battery, alternator, battery cable, wiring harness fault, crank or camshaft position sensor. The fuel pump may have been replaced because it was not turning on.
Faulty spark plugs can cause the car to exhibit starting troubles. Worn out plugs does not produce sufficient sparks, which is needed for starting the engine. This results in the engine to stall and fail to start quickly.
Will a bad O2 sensor cause rough idle and loss of engine power? You bet. Moreover, you may also notice poor acceleration, engine misfires, and even stalling. Bad oxygen sensors disrupt all kinds of essential engine functions, including engine timing, combustion intervals, and air-fuel ratio.
Another symptom commonly associated with a problematic crankshaft position sensor is intermittent stalling. If the crankshaft position sensor or its wiring have any issues, it can cause the crankshaft signal to be cut off while the engine is running, which can cause the engine to stall.
Electrical Sensor Issue
Usually, the warning is one of your dashboard lights accompanied by a bell. If any of these sensors or the main computer chip malfunction, your vehicle will stall.
“If the [battery`s] voltage is low, replace with a new battery or charge the battery to the recommended 14.2 to 14.7 volts,” he says. “Then try to run the vehicle and see if the voltage after is outside of that range. If it is, that`s a sign of a bad alternator.”
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
it takes a number of times to start my car it starts then stalls straightaway The car will turn over but won’t fire its
ANSWER : Hello there. Typically, a vehicle will start and then quit because of an issue with the fuel or electrical system. Some common parts that cause this include mass air flow sensors, damaged or clogged fuel injectors, or the throttle body being damaged. The best way to diagnose the right cause of this problem is to have a mobile mechanic come to your location and complete a car starts then dies inspection.
Car won’t turn over. No lights come on when I turn it. Can’t even lock my doorsvor push the seat up or back.
ANSWER : Your probably correct, it sounds as though your battery is done. But it also sounds like you have charging system issues. I’m not sure that fixing your battery and charging system will solve the problem with the car shutting off, but it’s possible that it will and it’s a darned good place to start. By contacting Your Mechanic, you can have a technician come to your home or office to check out your car and help you figure out what to do next.
Battery and oil light come on when trying to start car, take keys out try again car starts no problem and lights go away
ANSWER : Of course, don’t switch gears without being fully stopped, unless your Owner’s Manual or the manufacturer has alternative advice. However, the gear shift issue has no relation to the no-start problem you are describing. Inasmuch as you only have 6,000 miles on the car, the "constant on and off" that you believe has occurred is meaningless in comparison to the expected total vehicle service life. That is, assume what you perceive as "constant on and off", during merely 6,000 miles, might be equivalent to using the car "normally" for three years. A new car should be trouble free for at least 5 years, unless there is a defect, so your "constant on and off" is not a causal factor for any fault on the vehicle. What you might have is a defect in the ignition switch, or perhaps the immobilizer system, but if the problem is not in the switch itself, clearly there is an electrical problem.
If your vehicle is under warranty, by law the dealer MUST repair the issue you are describing within a prescribed time frame and number of "attempts", otherwise the dealer will run afoul of Federal and state Lemon Laws that give you very specific rights, and recourse (contact an Attorney; we are Mechanics, NOT attorneys). Consequently, if the vehicle is still under warranty, to save yourself money do be sure to seek a resolution from the dealer. If the vehicle is not under warranty, obviously a certified Mechanic from YourMechanic could identify the electrical fault and resolve this for you. If you want to go that route, please simply request a no start diagnostic -electrical system and the responding certified mechanic will get this taken care of for you. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
My car will not start Intermittently. I purchased a new battery 2 weeks ago and yesterday the car wouldn’t start. Got a jump and
ANSWER : The issue you are having is probably due to an intermittent fault in the starter motor itself or a deficiency in the starter electrical circuit, for example a large voltage drop due to a poor ground or a high resistance connection. These issues can be readily diagnosed and resolved on a mobile basis if you request a hard starting diagnostic. If you request that diagnostic, the responding certified mechanic will get this resolved for you promptly. Based on Toyota’s Factory Service Manual, the battery should not be disconnected if the vehicle engine is running. The battery acts as a large resistive voltage sink and consequently taking the battery out of the circuit, while the alternator is still running, can create a voltage spike on the car’s electrical system which is not good for voltage sensitive components such as the engine computer. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
Every 3-4 months, my car won’t start. It does turn over though.
ANSWER : If your battery is weak or has bad connections to the battery, then you may have problems starting the vehicle intermittently. This is due to low voltage to the starter which is taking all the power, while the electronic ignition and the electric fuel pump get cut short. This will cause the vehicle not to start.
You may think the vehicle is turning over okay, but the starter is taking in all of the power just to turn over the motor. You should get the battery and it’s cables checked, as well as the charging system, for any problems by a qualified mechanic so they can diagnose the problem and do any repairs needed to prevent this problem in the future.
Vehicle won’t start, once it’s jump started it only stays running until you turn it off, then it work start again without jumping.
ANSWER : Hi there. There could be two problems here. It is possible that your battery is bad and will not take a charge from your alternator while driving. In that case every time you shut your car off you will not have enough juice to start it again. Inspect your battery – it should have at least 12.5 to 13 volts to start your car, if it doesn’t you will need to replace the battery. The second problem could be that your alternator is bad and not charging your battery, in this case you will need to replace your alternator. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested in your car. If you would like to have the car checked for you, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to diagnose the starting problem and proceed with repairs.
Map sensor car won’t start up good ?
ANSWER : Your MAP sensor is an important input for your computer. It helps determine the load on the engine to calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject. It sometimes takes a few seconds for the vehicle to realize that the sensor is not producing a good signal.
At that point, it will use other methods to determine the fuel rate, such as pre-programmed fuel maps, throttle position, etc. I would suggest replacing the MAP sensor and retesting. If you would like to have it checked first, a certified technician from YourMechanic will be able to scan your vehicle and test components to determine the root cause of your starting issue before making a repair.
Car won’t start after seeing engine hot turn a/c off warning light.
ANSWER : Hi there. Check the battery cables and make sure that they are tight and clean. Then check the battery voltage and see if it has a voltage of 12.6 or 12.4. If the battery is less than that, then the battery needs charged. If the battery has 12.4 volts or higher, then place a load tester on the battery and see if the battery can hold a charge when a load is applied. If the battery drops under 9.6 volts, then the battery is no good and needs replaced. If the battery drops to 11.5 volts, then there is a dry cell and possible a burned cell and the battery needs replaced. If you need further assistance with testing your car battery, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
