i have a power stearing pump going out and i need to ask a question
i have a power stearing pump going out and i cant buy a new one right now and i have found a new one and it says for a 05-09 so i was wondering if that would work with my van being a 2009
My car has 185000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Experienced mechanics share their insights in answering this question :
Hello, thank you for writing in. Aftermarket parts for vehicle are often interchangeable as it make them more appealing to the parts market. It is not uncommon for parts to be sold like this, as the vehicles in these year ranges do not vary dramatically. If your vehicle is a 2009 model and the pump is approved for 2005-2009 models, it should work perfectly for your vehicle. If you are concerned, check for a separate brand or check reviews. If you are concerned about the installation process or the part purchasing, contact our service department who will service the pump for you.
How to Identify and Fix Common car Problems ?
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If your vehicle is only hard to steer when you first turn it on, then you likely have a damaged steering rack. Often this problem will go away when the car warms up, and the rack becomes hot and well lubricated.
A serious problem with a faulty power steering pump is steering that doesn`t respond. You may turn the wheel, but your vehicle may not change direction. As you can imagine, this can put you in a very dangerous situation and might even cause an automobile accident.
Honda Odyssey Power Steering Problems
When the vans were moving slow, such as in a parking lot, the low rpm in the engine combined with problems in the power steering pump caused a lack of power steering assist. The problem was nonexistent at higher speeds where the engine was running with more rpms.
The most common cause of a stiff steering wheel is when you are running low on power steering fluid in your system. Often, this happens when there is a leak in the system from the pressurized hose area. Most of the time, it is due to a cracked or loose hose causing the fluid to leak out.
This isn`t usually something that happens suddenly. Most of the time it starts with a worn seal slowly starting to wear out and fail or a hose developing a minor flaw. Eventually, these small problems become bigger, and when they become bigger, they cause your pump to fail and your power steering to give out.
Vehicles that are designed with a power steering pump should only be used when the power steering is operational. When the power steering stops working, you should refrain from operating the vehicle until the pump is replaced.
One of the most common problems power steering systems have is leaks. The high pressure of the system combined with the soft hoses carrying the fluid makes it relatively susceptible to leaks. A low fluid level can cause a whining power steering pump and even a loss of fluid pressure and a loss of steering assistance.
Most vehicle components have an expected lifespan, and power steering pumps are no different. A pump typically lasts up to 100,000 miles or better before experiencing any significant issues.
Most vehicle`s power steering system will last for 100,000 to 150,000 miles before a pump replacement is warranted. Power steering pump replacement is usually an avoidable cost. Just make sure that you continually monitor and maintain your scheduled maintenance program of all of your fluid.
The most common cause of a stiff steering wheel is the lack of enough power steering fluid in the system. This condition can arise if there`s fluid leakage from the pressurized hose area. Refilling the liquid in the power steering tank will fix the problem for the time being, but the leak must be taken care of.
The most common cause of a stiff steering wheel is the lack of enough power steering fluid in the system. This condition can arise if there`s fluid leakage from the pressurized hose area. Refilling the liquid in the power steering tank will fix the problem for the time being, but the leak must be taken care of.
If your vehicle is only hard to steer when you first turn it on, then you likely have a damaged steering rack. Often this problem will go away when the car warms up, and the rack becomes hot and well lubricated.
Worn Ball Joints Ball joints enable the movement of the suspension control arms and steering knuckles. To move smoothly, it`s crucial that these joints remain lubricated at all times. If they become dry, they may start making squeaking or crunching noises when you turn the steering wheel at low speeds.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
i have a power stearing pump going out and i need to ask a question
ANSWER : Hello, thank you for writing in. Aftermarket parts for vehicle are often interchangeable as it make them more appealing to the parts market. It is not uncommon for parts to be sold like this, as the vehicles in these year ranges do not vary dramatically. If your vehicle is a 2009 model and the pump is approved for 2005-2009 models, it should work perfectly for your vehicle. If you are concerned, check for a separate brand or check reviews. If you are concerned about the installation process or the part purchasing, contact our service department who will service the pump for you.
Power steering pump on 2012 Acura TL needs to be replaced. Due to location a power bar also needs to be replaced. Cost over $3,000. Is this a good price?
ANSWER : Question sent to CS for a quote on replacing the power steering motor, programming, and replacing an electrical component attached to the motor. This is in comparison to a quote that was given for the parts and labor.
Not getting power to the fuel pump and the secondary air injection pump fuse keeps blowing
ANSWER : There are quite a few reports of PCM (Powertrain Control Module, AKA computer) failures causing your problem, but before you go replacing the PCM, do some more pinpoint tests. This may require you to find a wiring diagram of all the wires coming from the PCM.
The first thing I would do is to connect a scanner to the car and see if you can communicate with the PCM. As a technician, I have access to communities of technicians where repeat failures are reported. In these reports, it is most common when the PCM fails in this fashion, that you will not have PCM communication. If you do have communication and the Check Engine Light turns on with the key on, I would be leaning away from the PCM being the problem.
However, this is by no means conclusive. You could be correct in your thoughts about a wiring problem mid vehicle. On most GM vehicles, there is a connector along the frame rail for the wiring harness that services the fuel module in the tank. This has problems with corrosion because it sits under the vehicle exposed to the elements. But why am I doubtful of this, and this will require you to confirm where the power starts and stops, is you stated you didn’t have power from the fuse box. This would be before this connector and the fuel pump. If this is the case, I wouldn’t be thinking of a wiring problem mid vehicle anymore.
I am wondering if you confirmed the fuse box was getting power? It is a very common problem that when we move wiring we inadvertently move the damaged wiring and fix the problem for the short term. You may have done this when replacing the fuse box. Not to mention you seem to have an intermittent failure on your hands. This compounds the process quite a bit.
I’m not sure how you are confirming you have power at the various points, but I highly recommend a test light over a multi-meter. A test light draws current and a multi-meter does not. There can be voltage present but not a good enough connection to carry current. This is a very important distinction when you are battling bad connections. The problem with a test light though, is knowing when it shouldn’t be used. Some test lights draw too much current and can damage computer modules. Even us technicians perform tests on modules at our own risk.
The best way to test a relay is to simply use a jumper wire to bypass them. If I suspect there is a problem with the power supply to the fuel pump, this is the first thing I do. This way I can be sure it isn’t the relay or the PCM that turns the relay on. If the fuel pump does not run, use the before mentioned test light to find where the power stops. This requires you to methodically track the wire back to the fuel pump. I usually start at the central connector, if it has one. Not all of them do. I go directly to the pump if I can, but this is often not easy to access without dropping the fuel tank down. If you successfully confirm power to the pump, it maybe a bad ground, in which case the easiest way to confirm this is to add a ground yourself.
If this circuit checks out good, a few other things to check are power and ground to the PCM. Locate the wire from the PCM that powers the fuel pump relay. This can be done at the relay connector while you are testing the fuel pump circuit without the relay. When you turn the key on, on of the four terminals should receive power from the PCM for a few seconds. It will turn off after a couple of seconds if the PCM doesn’t see a signal that the motor is running. This is normal operation.
As for the air pump, I wouldn’t think this is an indication of the problem unless this occurred at the exact same time as the fuel pump failure. If so, I would suspect a wiring harness is shorting to ground somewhere. If they didn’t occur at the same time, this is most likely a separate issue.
The challenge you have here is isolating each part of the system. The PCM, the fuel pump relay, or a wiring issue. The PCM is actually fairly easy to check. Is the Check Engine Light on with key on and does it communicate with a scanner? Then follow the fuel pump relay test I outlined above. If it is a bad connection somewhere in the system, you will need a good wiring diagram and a well thought out plan to isolate where the problem is. This can be the most difficult to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent. Find a wiring diagram and study it carefully. If you’d like help, you can have a qualified technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to inspect your car’s loss of power and make the correct repairs.
Good luck. I hope I have been of assistance.
The power steering pump seal keeps breaking when pump is replaced.
ANSWER : There may be a restriction in the power steering high pressure line causing an excessively high amount of pressure in the line and the pump. If the belt tensioner for the power steering belt is a manual tensioner that can be adjusted, the tension may be too tight causing a high load on the bearings at the power steering pump drive shaft. You can try having the power steering system flushed to see if this will clear any blockages and be sure to use an OEM quality power steering pump as some aftermarket components are not manufactured as well as the originals. Consider hiring an experienced technician like one from YourMechanic who can come out for a closer inspection of the vehicle in order to offer a more personal diagnosis if your power steering concerns.
Gm I need a power steering pump or should I get power steering fluid? I have leaks coming out what should I do
ANSWER : If the power steering pump is leaking then you should replace the pump since it is under pressure and no stop leak will stop it from leaking.
I need to replace my serpentine belt, it with the power steering pump deleted. What size belt would I need? 2007 Mercury Milan
ANSWER : Hi there – this may or may not be possible. Bypassing the power steering pump may route the serpentine belt in conflict with other rotating components on the engine. Using a "soft measuring tape" (like a tailor uses), measure the distance around all but the PS pump, following the same path the original serpentine belt follows, minus the PS pump. Do this with the belt tensioner in the "full tension" position. Take this measurement (in millimeters) to your auto parts store, and ask for a belt with this length, and the same number of grooves as the stock belt. This may require trying several belts (assuming no conflicts) to get one the length you require. Will likely be simpler, and not that much more expensive, to replace the PS pump. Good luck!
I am replacing my power brakes booster and need some advice about removing the power unit from the bell crank.
ANSWER : Hi there. When removing the brake booster from a vehicle, you will need to remove the master cylinder and cap off the hydraulic lines. Then go in the cab and remove the pin from the bell crank and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the booster on. Then remove the booster. Do the opposite to install the booster. If the bell crank pin had a cotter pin to secure it, make sure that you use a new cotter pin. If you need further assistance with removing and installing a brake booster in your vehicle, then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you.
There is no power going to fuel pump. Check relay it’s good.
ANSWER : Hi there. Have you inspected/replaced the fuel pump fuse? The ECM controls the fuel pump relay and this relay will only energize when commanded on. Does the check engine light come on; if not, then the ECM is not turning on. Do all the other combination meter warning lights come on? Are there any codes stored in the ECM? There are a lot of things that need to be verified before replacing any other parts as this will eventually become very expensive. Many times, the battery has failed and the vehicle will not start or provide power; it could simply be worn out or there could be a parasitic draw or a weak alternator that is not properly charging. A test of the battery with a digital tester that provides current voltage, cold cranking amps, and state of health should be done first. The battery is the heart of the electrical system and if it stumbles or fails, it can affect all other systems. I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a car does not start inspection.
